tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-84364131953529419992024-03-13T03:06:32.448-07:00Adventures in LiLoBethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.comBlogger106125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-85398123440585218102023-07-16T15:00:00.001-07:002023-07-16T15:00:00.157-07:00Charting a New Course<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj95r0tHPTU4_QVQQfB-EvC05fdGFdtkzNtNdrKd-YUoE8Lo2LGKQJ9GswunxiK8yjoTQNUUIkalIG9J7gLTCartccJgTkCKAeeElQG_XKN0x9dlaBF0oFZT-xzQZgiVRNlOv0QK2qis93R01wiYJI1jM0TyCPqVGREv0vYm0GeyLqc-KIrLrVz1UTR6HE/s4032/PXL_20230716_033750340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj95r0tHPTU4_QVQQfB-EvC05fdGFdtkzNtNdrKd-YUoE8Lo2LGKQJ9GswunxiK8yjoTQNUUIkalIG9J7gLTCartccJgTkCKAeeElQG_XKN0x9dlaBF0oFZT-xzQZgiVRNlOv0QK2qis93R01wiYJI1jM0TyCPqVGREv0vYm0GeyLqc-KIrLrVz1UTR6HE/s320/PXL_20230716_033750340.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>It’s been nine years and a couple of weeks since we sailed back from our year at sea. In that time, both our kids started high school, graduated, and moved on into their adult lives. Bryan changed jobs, built countless improvements to our lives, and coached the local robotics team to the world competition (and through a pandemic!) I went back to school for therapeutic music, learned to play the harp, was recorded as a Quaker minister, and wrote <a href="https://www.bethanyjoylee.com/" target="_blank">four books</a>. It’s been a busy nine years! </p><p>During that time, many folks have asked, “Do you still have your boat?” And more than a few have expressed surprise when I said, “Yes! <i>LiLo</i> is back at her slip in St. Helens.” Which is true. But there have been many seasons when we didn’t even get up to the Columbia for a weekend, much less for any of the longer trips we still hoped to make. <i>LiLo</i> was almost always just “back at her slip in St. Helens.”</p><p>We all know how life can shift and what worked for one season might not be right for another. We wondered if time would open up for more <i>LiLo</i> adventures after high school, wondered again as the pandemic hit if that might prompt us to get out a little more. And it did…a little bit. But every time, it became clearer and clearer: <i>LiLo</i> was our past but not our present or our future.</p><p>As hard as it has been to consider letting go of this floating home which was the center of so much family joy and connection, we knew that holding on to it would prevent us from making more memories and having more adventures. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5AOb9BMKyyot9boq6lc8tpGuMHzllTVZGOmLVHPTLKr07gzeioEyXwtlMz7ism2qF44O3TzgdZwE1kll2ombIAyJkUo9Z7MEsC_RMrzSjEfMLjIJzx-bP_O1Wrjag97QIf1YQvNC0KEKeQAhD5ql2pnEz3VVjE0WOJUzV6gnV31LeSRZXn4eKdtXqjWA/s4032/PXL_20230716_010637142.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5AOb9BMKyyot9boq6lc8tpGuMHzllTVZGOmLVHPTLKr07gzeioEyXwtlMz7ism2qF44O3TzgdZwE1kll2ombIAyJkUo9Z7MEsC_RMrzSjEfMLjIJzx-bP_O1Wrjag97QIf1YQvNC0KEKeQAhD5ql2pnEz3VVjE0WOJUzV6gnV31LeSRZXn4eKdtXqjWA/s320/PXL_20230716_010637142.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>So, after years of considering what might be next for us, whether boating would even be a part of our future, and wondering when the time would be right to make a change, this spring, we finally took the plunge and started looking seriously for a different boat. </p><p>We have dreams of heading north, up the Inside Passage of Canada and maybe Alaska, and wanted a layout with a warm, dry inside steering station, a powerful engine to get us through the tidal currents safely, and space to work aboard on the way. </p><p>We found an affordable dream boat in the South Puget Sound and put in an offer with mixed emotions, knowing it meant finally letting <i>LiLo</i> go for good. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Ypf2ILXXv-vl4M-cJ2Sj5wt5oZNHvbaNsRlknXPzzjRFeN0vBDgdC1ppgWxOad-D6ok6ZHVpL5OH_Tn8Q0l5Q-5nbYtsrhCLat2KDOap7QFqxh3yhzOXAvRYFxphRrS_S-ixy65eriUB7QfjwbTxUCVV2SScAv3MoApgCw7IY1hFM0KjuUpg3h-b1Kw/s4032/PXL_20230716_034030451.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Ypf2ILXXv-vl4M-cJ2Sj5wt5oZNHvbaNsRlknXPzzjRFeN0vBDgdC1ppgWxOad-D6ok6ZHVpL5OH_Tn8Q0l5Q-5nbYtsrhCLat2KDOap7QFqxh3yhzOXAvRYFxphRrS_S-ixy65eriUB7QfjwbTxUCVV2SScAv3MoApgCw7IY1hFM0KjuUpg3h-b1Kw/s320/PXL_20230716_034030451.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>I’ll share more on my <a href="https://www.patreon.com/bethanyjoylee" target="_blank">Patreon</a> and FB page soon about the new boat aptly named “Sanctuary.” But today, I wanted to share the photos from last night’s <i>LiLo</i> sendoff when we took the time to gather with family and a few sailing friends to officially close this chapter before she goes on the market this week. </p><p>We ate some traditional <i>LiLo</i> foods and drank the traditional <i>LiLo</i> root beer. We retraced the map of our journey on the ceiling and Hannah hid her name on the back of a bulkhead. Friends who had been on the dock as we left and greeted us on our return from the big trip sat with us as the sun set and the breeze cooled and we all told story after story, mostly of how things went wrong and how we found our way together. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigYN1apaIBqhbZ69uUStvRqDY1IQY8UuaYWqg5YYW-jFoLWZ65YY6T8AFqlFFru4Q5DzJFuOe_wxub5ueMKZJFiPRD2--K5XjGy05C3bzk0jydVHzMmMM43xqEUwFO9FNGynHatHckjGmzFAeRzg4U8xagHJjitvMogr3VbDZt7sHOIZI6B_s361MBSH4/s3280/PXL_20230716_041910672.MP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2464" data-original-width="3280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigYN1apaIBqhbZ69uUStvRqDY1IQY8UuaYWqg5YYW-jFoLWZ65YY6T8AFqlFFru4Q5DzJFuOe_wxub5ueMKZJFiPRD2--K5XjGy05C3bzk0jydVHzMmMM43xqEUwFO9FNGynHatHckjGmzFAeRzg4U8xagHJjitvMogr3VbDZt7sHOIZI6B_s361MBSH4/s320/PXL_20230716_041910672.MP.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>One friend sang a couple of original songs inspired by our journey. And at the end of the evening, after everyone else was gone, we stood in the cockpit together and danced through our tears to a song from our at-sea playlist, one that kept us going on many hard days and played as we sailed the last miles of our year.</p><p>Then Hannah slipped the drop boards into place for the last time. </p><p>Annnnnnd then we had to go back below for something we’d forgotten so Meira got a turn to close up the boat as well.</p><p>I laid my hand on <i>LiLo’s</i> stern with gratitude for all she brought and a blessing for her next adventures and then, as we did countless times over the years, Bryan and I turned to follow our kids back up the ramp into the deepening dusk. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjujGD3DT1iyuXoomF3dvQ4A_vIjnFaylnFbRATqpB7I0Q6343P2RG4aOMHPs9o16cpDdeTDtUZR_KA_hA203wrLVJAvOLnDMyOAwsyTpGw-acT0mvckjjijnLbPXHKYnwjbYYGn3OHsP1r_bTj7IylVFoECQfq9no_K9F2wjjAnyCPeyJ8lHf6qp8WOo0/s4032/PXL_20230716_052028841.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjujGD3DT1iyuXoomF3dvQ4A_vIjnFaylnFbRATqpB7I0Q6343P2RG4aOMHPs9o16cpDdeTDtUZR_KA_hA203wrLVJAvOLnDMyOAwsyTpGw-acT0mvckjjijnLbPXHKYnwjbYYGn3OHsP1r_bTj7IylVFoECQfq9no_K9F2wjjAnyCPeyJ8lHf6qp8WOo0/s320/PXL_20230716_052028841.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><p>It’s hard to look a “last time” right in the face. It’s easier for me to look back later and notice that I’ve already lived through an ending.</p><p>But we knew we wanted to be present to this big shift, as hard as it is to hold. I’ll always be grateful we took the time to honor all this season brought us and walk together into the next one. </p><p><br /></p><p> </p>Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-21128744122258490872015-09-12T19:06:00.000-07:002015-09-12T19:06:18.451-07:00On the Road Again<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We haven't been on too many LiLo adventures lately. We've been out a bit this summer and have more plans for the fall (and next year...always next year!) But after all these years of working toward our big trip aboard, we thought this would be a good year for a family road trip!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ieXz9k3LlG4/VeNwQatvLQI/AAAAAAAAXHc/8cXXZq5W7sg/s1600/01-20150815_121837.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ieXz9k3LlG4/VeNwQatvLQI/AAAAAAAAXHc/8cXXZq5W7sg/s320/01-20150815_121837.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The girls had never been to Yellowstone, and neither Bryan nor I had been there since we were kids ourselves, so a couple of weeks ago, we piled in the car and headed east. Partway through the trip, Bryan realized this was the farthest from the sea, both distance and altitude, he'd been in decades.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1V1igRkRKVc/VeNwQdyR8oI/AAAAAAAAXHY/JiDkmcnGO7Q/s1600/02-20150815_184230.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1V1igRkRKVc/VeNwQdyR8oI/AAAAAAAAXHY/JiDkmcnGO7Q/s320/02-20150815_184230.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
He'd been fighting some back and neck problems so we stopped for plenty of stretch breaks. (If you look closely, you'll spot our small owl mascot, The Doctor, a few more times in this post.)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5pXahhS-1TQ/VeNwQb-r4aI/AAAAAAAAXHw/f2xc4aKa4Bw/s1600/03-20150815_160621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5pXahhS-1TQ/VeNwQb-r4aI/AAAAAAAAXHw/f2xc4aKa4Bw/s320/03-20150815_160621.jpg" width="238" /></a></div>
A tank on the side of the road isn't a common sight to us. We had to stop to investigate. There wasn't a sign saying not to climb on it and, as Bryan said, "We're not going to hurt it. It's a tank."<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TJ8vA9JZIgE/VeNwRCJwnYI/AAAAAAAAXHs/hnjRGiSxwRc/s1600/04-20150816_115607.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TJ8vA9JZIgE/VeNwRCJwnYI/AAAAAAAAXHs/hnjRGiSxwRc/s320/04-20150816_115607.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Our first day out, we drove I-84, only recently re-opened after a closure due to wildfires in the area. It was smoky and grim. Blackened grass and smoldering cinders lined the freeway. A few miles before we got to Boise, the smoke lifted a bit. By the time we reached the night's accommodations, an airy yurt in a beautiful setting, it was clear enough to breathe.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-70yOilrYmAY/VeNwRKFH5dI/AAAAAAAAXHo/L39or1tlpG0/s1600/05-20150816_080637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-70yOilrYmAY/VeNwRKFH5dI/AAAAAAAAXHo/L39or1tlpG0/s320/05-20150816_080637.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-encuPnXkxes/VeNwSI2gGaI/AAAAAAAAXH0/mfj4wqOcVUk/s1600/06-20150816_080647.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-encuPnXkxes/VeNwSI2gGaI/AAAAAAAAXH0/mfj4wqOcVUk/s320/06-20150816_080647.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OojNrl-YHsQ/VeNwSX2uDyI/AAAAAAAAXH8/Y5SDuQbfnCg/s1600/07-20150816_095155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OojNrl-YHsQ/VeNwSX2uDyI/AAAAAAAAXH8/Y5SDuQbfnCg/s320/07-20150816_095155.jpg" width="236" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The yurt was only part of what made this backyard so magical. There were outdoor fireplaces and a small stage, just big enough for intimate concerts. The yurt started out as accommodations for traveling musicians but the hospitable owners have opened it up to non-musical travelers as well. A covered kitchen looked out on a collection of outdoor seating. In the evening, a constellation of fairy lights and solar lamps sparkled around the edges. I sat down at the piano for a few minutes and joined the ranks of all who have made music in this place.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ji3JqOK8exo/VeNwSbXLNjI/AAAAAAAAXH4/Vk3a0eJM2qo/s1600/08-20150816_094705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ji3JqOK8exo/VeNwSbXLNjI/AAAAAAAAXH4/Vk3a0eJM2qo/s320/08-20150816_094705.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Too soon the next morning, we had to leave. We wanted plenty of time to drive the scenic route up through <a href="http://www.nps.gov/crmo/index.htm" target="_blank">Craters of the Moon</a> but the girls put in a special request for breakfast at Cracker Barrel, so we stopped there first. They've each had the opportunity to travel with Bryan's mom and her sister (aka: The Crazy Grandmas) through this area and were horrified that I had never had the privilege of eating at a Cracker Barrel.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We headed off from there up to the national monument and spent several hours hiking through lava fields, climbing spatter cones, and spelunking in some lava tubes. The landscape is otherworldly, black and red and seemingly barren. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u3EhgBaIToM/VfTO1w6S1eI/AAAAAAAAXQM/R6ph8rcQBAQ/s1600/5-P1090458.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u3EhgBaIToM/VfTO1w6S1eI/AAAAAAAAXQM/R6ph8rcQBAQ/s320/5-P1090458.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
But we tagged along with a ranger on one of our hikes and she helped us see the subtle variations in the lava flows and spot flora and fauna in unexpected places.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ai_6UkOJHIY/VfTO1G83Q2I/AAAAAAAAXP0/VI9qLqbgSZk/s1600/1-P1090480.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ai_6UkOJHIY/VfTO1G83Q2I/AAAAAAAAXP0/VI9qLqbgSZk/s320/1-P1090480.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OJY8aKD1PAA/VfTO1pS8oAI/AAAAAAAAXQI/zyKF3CPlw1M/s1600/4-P1090520.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OJY8aKD1PAA/VfTO1pS8oAI/AAAAAAAAXQI/zyKF3CPlw1M/s320/4-P1090520.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iywsPE_s1L4/VfTO1N5lGMI/AAAAAAAAXQU/FCV7qBYt3fk/s1600/2-P1090499.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iywsPE_s1L4/VfTO1N5lGMI/AAAAAAAAXQU/FCV7qBYt3fk/s320/2-P1090499.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Back in the car, a few more hours and a lot of road-trip snacks got us to our cabin in Island Park. The town boasts the longest main street in the U.S. but if we had been expecting a bunch of cute shops and ice cream stands, we would have been disappointed. Island Park, population 276, stretches over 33 miles through north east Idaho. Apparently, Idaho liquor laws prohibit alcohol sales outside of the city limits so the many resort owners in the area incorporated this long, skinny town—only 500 feet wide in some places—to stay inside the law and keep the visitors happy.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We arrived in late evening but our travel companions, Bryan's brother and his family, were already there to welcome us. They had driven over from their home in Redmond, WA all in one day and had dinner on the table, a welcome sight for weary travelers. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ipA2r_Wm0Fc/VeNwTA0wXqI/AAAAAAAAXIc/fKRUCIzniEk/s1600/09-P1090577.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ipA2r_Wm0Fc/VeNwTA0wXqI/AAAAAAAAXIc/fKRUCIzniEk/s320/09-P1090577.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The next morning we kicked off our week in Yellowstone with a drive up to the Mammoth Hot Springs. The hot water carries dissolved minerals to the surface and deposits them in strange and amazing formations over acres of hillside. What a great introduction to the power and mystery of this unique area!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LHQX7kWENUI/VeNwTH6UhyI/AAAAAAAAXIQ/JIhqXJRJbJ0/s1600/10-P1090581.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LHQX7kWENUI/VeNwTH6UhyI/AAAAAAAAXIQ/JIhqXJRJbJ0/s320/10-P1090581.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We stopped at a few more outlooks and small hikes, Gibbon Falls and the Artists Paintpots. Much cousin fun was had along the way.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aQWJFhUDuzY/VeNwTQ0Tt5I/AAAAAAAAXIg/7_KoIf1YTNc/s1600/11-P1090590.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aQWJFhUDuzY/VeNwTQ0Tt5I/AAAAAAAAXIg/7_KoIf1YTNc/s320/11-P1090590.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Even though I had only spent one afternoon in Yellowstone as a kid, I had a vivid visual memory of one of the spots where we'd stopped and I kept my eye out to see if I could recognize it on this visit, taking into account the difference in season (I had gone in early June on a snowy, rainy day and this time was a dry and smoky August) and the almost 30 years that had passed. Bryan had a similar memory and we had fun all week trying to dredge up more details and match them to our surroundings.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The next day, after a hearty pancake breakfast (thanks, chef Josiah!),</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--qjikDezTzc/VeNwVdYHkPI/AAAAAAAAXIo/jrzohhvnX7I/s1600/13-P1090623.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--qjikDezTzc/VeNwVdYHkPI/AAAAAAAAXIo/jrzohhvnX7I/s320/13-P1090623.jpg" width="238" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
we drove to Old Faithful. By the time we'd found places to park and navigated through the crowds, it was time for lunch. We set up a buffet on the benches outside the visitors' center—a Lee-family favorite, tacos-in-a-bag. Someone noticed that Josiah was perfectly dressed to blend in. Can you see him in this picture? His camouflage worked so well, he startled the wits out of some fellow visitors!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CuvxhxYmCUk/VeNwVokeQAI/AAAAAAAAXJI/G96alGO_290/s1600/14-P1090628.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CuvxhxYmCUk/VeNwVokeQAI/AAAAAAAAXJI/G96alGO_290/s320/14-P1090628.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
After lunch, most of the family wanted to go for a hike through the Old Faithful area to the Black Sands region. Hannah and I were pretty worn out by the non-stop days of travel so we volunteered to stay behind for a couple of hours and then come pick up the hikers at the other end of their walk. We hung out in the visitors' center for a while, wandering separately but occasionally rushing around to find the other and point out some interesting fact or fun exhibit. We followed the crowd out to Old Faithful at the appointed time and watched until, just as the geyser started to blow, the wind shifted and blew steam and spray right into our faces. Up on the hillside, the hikers heard the crowd gasping and turned around in time to get their own view of the phenomenon.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IO0UJEBdURU/VeNwWGCqILI/AAAAAAAAXI0/BBmLGvnbd_k/s1600/15-P1090638.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IO0UJEBdURU/VeNwWGCqILI/AAAAAAAAXI0/BBmLGvnbd_k/s320/15-P1090638.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
While they finished their walk,</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yKAjLRSRVP8/VeNwWiMztlI/AAAAAAAAXI8/2GuF0fUNU3E/s1600/16-P1090851.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yKAjLRSRVP8/VeNwWiMztlI/AAAAAAAAXI8/2GuF0fUNU3E/s320/16-P1090851.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Hannah and I found our way to the third floor of the beautiful Old Faithful Inn. We grabbed some hot drinks from the coffee cart and sat for a few minutes, relaxing in the beauty all around us.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-96LUV-VqJrw/VeNwXG7sQwI/AAAAAAAAXJQ/yZ98lCOhhNY/s1600/18-20150818_160500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-96LUV-VqJrw/VeNwXG7sQwI/AAAAAAAAXJQ/yZ98lCOhhNY/s320/18-20150818_160500.jpg" width="238" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Soon, we got a call from the hikers and we regathered at the Black Sands trailhead.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KlyzQfPo5cM/VeNwW4nhQyI/AAAAAAAAXJU/lbV9i7K3hsA/s1600/17-P1090880.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KlyzQfPo5cM/VeNwW4nhQyI/AAAAAAAAXJU/lbV9i7K3hsA/s320/17-P1090880.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The next day, we stayed home.<br />
All the busyness was beginning to wear us a bit thin and we needed at least one day of rest to remind us this was actually a vacation. Plus, a twinge in Bryan's neck had escalated into a full-blown spasm and he was happy to be off the road for the day. We found a chiropractor in the small town of West Yellowstone, one who came with an unusual recommendation—apparently, he'd once adjusted the neck of a grizzly bear!<br />
The next day, we took it a bit easier, staying on the west side of the park and walking a few short hikes here and there.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JR798vDA4eE/VeNwXk67SzI/AAAAAAAAXJc/YKGUYeIbmDo/s1600/19-P1090889.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JR798vDA4eE/VeNwXk67SzI/AAAAAAAAXJc/YKGUYeIbmDo/s320/19-P1090889.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Like mother...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D-gKoLSgF7o/VeNwX3rVdqI/AAAAAAAAXJY/0ehkkMuT6iI/s1600/20-P1090571.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D-gKoLSgF7o/VeNwX3rVdqI/AAAAAAAAXJY/0ehkkMuT6iI/s320/20-P1090571.jpg" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...like daughter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We drove a few of the scenic loops in the park and stopped often to take in the beauty of the myriad canyons and geothermal features...and to give Bryan's back a break. At one of our stops, Bryan finally found the short hike he remembered. It wasn't listed on the big map of popular stops but his dad would have been the sort to take the family to the lesser-known sights so that made sense.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JS2Pt0QoMMo/VeNwYSq4FYI/AAAAAAAAXJ4/jDKjid14jUM/s1600/21-P1090898.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JS2Pt0QoMMo/VeNwYSq4FYI/AAAAAAAAXJ4/jDKjid14jUM/s320/21-P1090898.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
My sister-in-law and I both loved the canyon drive...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nfl1jcXe8YA/VeNwZFvo5tI/AAAAAAAAXJs/R7_JAlmq1Dk/s1600/22-P1090904.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nfl1jcXe8YA/VeNwZFvo5tI/AAAAAAAAXJs/R7_JAlmq1Dk/s320/22-P1090904.jpg" width="238" /></a></div>
...and the Firehole lake drive was stunning as well.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lmF6pKSkRKM/VeNwZjvDbZI/AAAAAAAAXKg/nDeyRaOz-V0/s1600/24-P1090932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="120" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lmF6pKSkRKM/VeNwZjvDbZI/AAAAAAAAXKg/nDeyRaOz-V0/s320/24-P1090932.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
When we discovered that this geyser is named "Young Hopeful" it became an instant favorite. What can I say? This family roots for the underdogs!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4UyXMHWJHUY/VeNwaL0tePI/AAAAAAAAXKA/OcmdE28I-Y0/s1600/25-P1090955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4UyXMHWJHUY/VeNwaL0tePI/AAAAAAAAXKA/OcmdE28I-Y0/s320/25-P1090955.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The cabin key was in the other car, so Josiah scaled the log walls and climbed up to the second story balcony to let us in. The car showed up just as he hit the top; it was a race to see who could be faster!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZTUIDQ9xPSw/VeNwaelcIaI/AAAAAAAAXKM/bxwsMQ1M_PQ/s1600/26-P1090961.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZTUIDQ9xPSw/VeNwaelcIaI/AAAAAAAAXKM/bxwsMQ1M_PQ/s320/26-P1090961.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
By Friday, Bryan felt up to the long drive over to the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. We followed a ranger to the lower falls viewpoint and then struck out on a side hike to the Artist's Viewpoint, made famous by the work of painter, <a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/44/Thomas_Moran_-_Grand_Canyon_of_the_Yellowstone_-_Smithsonian.jpg" target="_blank">Thomas Moran</a>.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g0zbwKm7J_c/VeNwbBflbYI/AAAAAAAAXKU/VNZUTha2Eew/s1600/27-P1090975.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g0zbwKm7J_c/VeNwbBflbYI/AAAAAAAAXKU/VNZUTha2Eew/s320/27-P1090975.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Hannah stopped along the way to do her own sketch.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vKvCksze8Cg/VeNwbrxeUEI/AAAAAAAAXKY/p6pZcuqWiOo/s1600/28-P1090980.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vKvCksze8Cg/VeNwbrxeUEI/AAAAAAAAXKY/p6pZcuqWiOo/s320/28-P1090980.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
And Bryan captured what he found beautiful.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8Zg9djdvn7M/VeNwcHjQHBI/AAAAAAAAXMI/ZYpfgZMWs_o/s1600/29-P1090986.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8Zg9djdvn7M/VeNwcHjQHBI/AAAAAAAAXMI/ZYpfgZMWs_o/s320/29-P1090986.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
We walked the flat trail above, while over the edge this agile marmot rambled up and down the steep scree.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ghYIoAXVcm0/VeNwcCMkjBI/AAAAAAAAXKo/YTckox3DCQ0/s1600/30-P1090993.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ghYIoAXVcm0/VeNwcCMkjBI/AAAAAAAAXKo/YTckox3DCQ0/s320/30-P1090993.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The smoke in the air muted the colors in our pictures but, after we caught our breath (hiking at 7,000 feet on a smoky day is not the greatest for this asthmatic's lungs!) we enjoyed the subtle colors and surprising features of the view. Bryan's brother, Eric pulled out his binoculars and we all took turns watching a geyser spray straight out of the wall of the cliff, a reminder that the forces that shaped this place are far from dormant.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F_g6n4MRZSo/VeNwcsTgkkI/AAAAAAAAXK4/xDfT3yA4rR0/s1600/31-P1090995.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F_g6n4MRZSo/VeNwcsTgkkI/AAAAAAAAXK4/xDfT3yA4rR0/s320/31-P1090995.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bBdbJLPE7OI/VeNwcw2IhII/AAAAAAAAXLM/gx1KP2elUdI/s1600/32-P1090999.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bBdbJLPE7OI/VeNwcw2IhII/AAAAAAAAXLM/gx1KP2elUdI/s320/32-P1090999.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We gathered everyone back into the cars and turned south to visit mud volcano and sulfur canyon.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zLQCnbOWMN4/VeNwd0mh-zI/AAAAAAAAXLI/e4G6GCNnLPo/s1600/33-P1100020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zLQCnbOWMN4/VeNwd0mh-zI/AAAAAAAAXLI/e4G6GCNnLPo/s320/33-P1100020.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This noisy cave was aptly named for the dragon's breath it resembles. We stood for a long time imagining the various fantasy stories the sights and sounds inspired.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4dFTw2zChu4/VeNwes0LytI/AAAAAAAAXLU/eb8sw57w4v0/s1600/34-P1100040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4dFTw2zChu4/VeNwes0LytI/AAAAAAAAXLU/eb8sw57w4v0/s320/34-P1100040.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We ended the day with a drive down into Hayden Valley where, we'd been told, the bison herds roam. And sure enough, there they were. The day had been long, the wind was blowing hard, and the bison were quiet and distant. So we soon turned around and drove back through the park, west toward a spectacular sunset and home.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w8vmnPzkDw4/VeNwexzn6sI/AAAAAAAAXLY/M1_9MkZ1E4o/s1600/35-P1100043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w8vmnPzkDw4/VeNwexzn6sI/AAAAAAAAXLY/M1_9MkZ1E4o/s320/35-P1100043.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
On our last day in the park, we set out to re-create some more childhood memories. Eric and Bryan remembered going on a back-country hike when they were in the park as children. It made such an impression on them that a few years ago, when Eric was back with his kids, they signed up for the same hike. Once they were out with the ranger, he noticed a surprising number of familiar statements and anecdotes and asked, "How long have you been doing this job?" Turns out, the ranger had been around for 35 years, plenty long enough to be the same one the guys remember from long ago.<br />
For some reason, the park didn't offer guided back-country hikes this summer, so we decided to head out on our own. We got a little sidetracked by the bison herd in the parking lot...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uwmuTzhO88M/VeNwfdjpG8I/AAAAAAAAXLs/upvmjhlhUlg/s1600/36-P1100051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uwmuTzhO88M/VeNwfdjpG8I/AAAAAAAAXLs/upvmjhlhUlg/s320/36-P1100051.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HnjKL0Q_GbE/VeNwf4AsumI/AAAAAAAAXLo/mSVtqfA-ErM/s1600/37-P1100053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HnjKL0Q_GbE/VeNwf4AsumI/AAAAAAAAXLo/mSVtqfA-ErM/s320/37-P1100053.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
...but we found a safe place to park, quickly gathered our gear, and skedaddled before they came our way.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NQSRXf2qdV4/VeNwifX7BXI/AAAAAAAAXMU/Hp7wysxFs7I/s1600/42-P1100067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NQSRXf2qdV4/VeNwifX7BXI/AAAAAAAAXMU/Hp7wysxFs7I/s320/42-P1100067.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5qN_2vdfaIs/VeNwhB2ghbI/AAAAAAAAXL8/cgJ2K7iR5XM/s1600/40-P1100065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5qN_2vdfaIs/VeNwhB2ghbI/AAAAAAAAXL8/cgJ2K7iR5XM/s320/40-P1100065.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
On a back-country hike, there are no boardwalks or warning signs to keep us safe. Eric gave us one last reminder to watch our step and we headed off toward the steam. Right away, some of our crew stumbled through a marshy spot in the faint trail so Bryan took off toward higher ground to try to find a dry way around. Hannah and I followed him as he picked his way around hot springs and mud pots. We tried to walk lightly over the surface, knowing that the whole area was prone to collapse and explosion. Bryan found a series of bison prints in the thin crust and let them lead us, assuming that if the heavy bison had made it across there safely, so could we.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ww7gT15iUUE/VeNwhyi1t-I/AAAAAAAAXMM/1AVnQSfIDGw/s1600/41-P1100066.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ww7gT15iUUE/VeNwhyi1t-I/AAAAAAAAXMM/1AVnQSfIDGw/s320/41-P1100066.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5LHkrWiw-Zc/VeNwgjbH6YI/AAAAAAAAXLw/z8tr99fzKwU/s1600/39-P1100061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5LHkrWiw-Zc/VeNwgjbH6YI/AAAAAAAAXLw/z8tr99fzKwU/s320/39-P1100061.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Back with the group, we meandered through a field of nameless geothermal features.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EUDoVbWzJ0g/VeNwinZUSYI/AAAAAAAAXMY/P3SJVq6VT1I/s1600/43-P1100068.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EUDoVbWzJ0g/VeNwinZUSYI/AAAAAAAAXMY/P3SJVq6VT1I/s320/43-P1100068.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Each one was unique, varying in color, consistency, viscosity, and size.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P_bfLp9Gobg/VeNwi-D4iAI/AAAAAAAAXMo/8MoPMVvhO2w/s1600/44-P1100069.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P_bfLp9Gobg/VeNwi-D4iAI/AAAAAAAAXMo/8MoPMVvhO2w/s320/44-P1100069.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mTzSATpVG24/VeNwjLnZ63I/AAAAAAAAXM0/mOLG1E73Rkc/s1600/45-P1100079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mTzSATpVG24/VeNwjLnZ63I/AAAAAAAAXM0/mOLG1E73Rkc/s320/45-P1100079.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
This little mud pot threw splatters up onto our legs, to our great amusement.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ohnqvxe_6uk/VeNwjv3k7jI/AAAAAAAAXM4/fHJ37MxshxQ/s1600/46-P1100087.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ohnqvxe_6uk/VeNwjv3k7jI/AAAAAAAAXM4/fHJ37MxshxQ/s320/46-P1100087.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
And this enormous one has obviously been tossing mud up and out all summer, maybe for years.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K_VkjycO9us/VeNwkWIQcII/AAAAAAAAXNM/LE9u1zoieAs/s1600/47-P1100111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K_VkjycO9us/VeNwkWIQcII/AAAAAAAAXNM/LE9u1zoieAs/s320/47-P1100111.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The late summer landscape didn't have much in the way of wildflowers<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cPMsRWVWPyE/VeNwluxGXYI/AAAAAAAAXNY/JMhRfICfLfo/s1600/50-P1100141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cPMsRWVWPyE/VeNwluxGXYI/AAAAAAAAXNY/JMhRfICfLfo/s320/50-P1100141.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
but offered its own sort of beauty<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4uk0bWaIF-Y/VeNwks2nEfI/AAAAAAAAXNE/kfhFJsg5Eiw/s1600/48-P1100121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="98" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4uk0bWaIF-Y/VeNwks2nEfI/AAAAAAAAXNE/kfhFJsg5Eiw/s320/48-P1100121.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GH4cYlWYUS4/VeNwk0cVq4I/AAAAAAAAXNI/EM0XJHaCE5g/s1600/49-P1100123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="107" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GH4cYlWYUS4/VeNwk0cVq4I/AAAAAAAAXNI/EM0XJHaCE5g/s320/49-P1100123.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
We couldn't resist mugging with the scrap of bison fleece we found along the way.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g8Zri-7XA8k/VeNwl4Dj6FI/AAAAAAAAXNs/WFDGikBDWLQ/s1600/51-P1100152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g8Zri-7XA8k/VeNwl4Dj6FI/AAAAAAAAXNs/WFDGikBDWLQ/s320/51-P1100152.jpg" width="238" /></a></div>
Back at the parking lot, the bison herd had moved on down into the river valley and we pulled out our lunches and sat down to enjoy the show. Mama bison led calves down to the river; others rolled in the grass, sending up plumes of dust. Bull bison occasionally scuffled in brief showdowns that had us gesturing at anyone not paying attention and hollering, "Fight! Fight!" like fans at a hockey game.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k7480Ck2CKs/VeNwl6VBrUI/AAAAAAAAXNo/MrnGn9gVTJA/s1600/52-P1100157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k7480Ck2CKs/VeNwl6VBrUI/AAAAAAAAXNo/MrnGn9gVTJA/s320/52-P1100157.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P4nZZvlRg3g/VeNwmkzD04I/AAAAAAAAXNk/hZ7bUprsdqs/s1600/53-P1100162.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P4nZZvlRg3g/VeNwmkzD04I/AAAAAAAAXNk/hZ7bUprsdqs/s320/53-P1100162.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The family decided we needed one more trip to Old Faithful to end our trip right and Bryan wanted to take me around the small loop there to show me a few things I'd missed on the hike earlier in the week. I still hadn't found a place that matched my memory. I thought I'd know it when I saw it but the only descriptors I could give—"somewhere with mudpots and hot springs and boardwalks"—didn't narrow it down much. I knew we'd driven in from the east and out the south entrance so I tried to figure out what might have been likely spots for my family to stop. I'd finally started wondering if, given that we only had time to stop once or twice in the park that afternoon, perhaps my missing memory was there at Old Faithful after all. Sure enough, while the rest of the family took in the visitors' center and the Inn, Bryan and I walked up the hill and wandered out onto the plain of geysers and mudpots, and into the images from my faded memories. It was a lovely way to end a delightful week.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-55ddJ_mIjOc/VfMwKqQxGEI/AAAAAAAAXPY/dmF74ManRTg/s1600/38-P1100058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-55ddJ_mIjOc/VfMwKqQxGEI/AAAAAAAAXPY/dmF74ManRTg/s320/38-P1100058.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The next morning, we said goodbye to our Washington family and we all headed back toward home. We took our time driving back and stopped for a couple of nights in La Grande, OR to visit some dear family friends. The girls immediately took over the hotel room with a card game...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eQMMV8hmfBA/VeNwnhNZoWI/AAAAAAAAXOc/R_L8zkgvK9A/s1600/54-P1100167.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eQMMV8hmfBA/VeNwnhNZoWI/AAAAAAAAXOc/R_L8zkgvK9A/s320/54-P1100167.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
...and we spent a little time exploring the town with our friends.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EdWNr4lKrOM/VeNwnlB6qWI/AAAAAAAAXN0/4yekhH87UHk/s1600/55-P1100170.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EdWNr4lKrOM/VeNwnlB6qWI/AAAAAAAAXN0/4yekhH87UHk/s320/55-P1100170.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o-Zb2PgqGR0/VeNwoOIbP2I/AAAAAAAAXN8/oPIzwHqr8qQ/s1600/56-P1100172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o-Zb2PgqGR0/VeNwoOIbP2I/AAAAAAAAXN8/oPIzwHqr8qQ/s320/56-P1100172.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The last morning, we met at a little cafe just a block from their apartment. They sent us off with stories and smiles and a invitation to come back again soon.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-631axXKA9dU/VeNwpIfFr8I/AAAAAAAAXOI/kGaeiicGk_8/s1600/58-P1100174.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-631axXKA9dU/VeNwpIfFr8I/AAAAAAAAXOI/kGaeiicGk_8/s320/58-P1100174.jpg" width="238" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KEJhrfROHKw/VeNwpe-FFKI/AAAAAAAAXOM/Jv9FLhRLaoM/s1600/59-P1100173.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KEJhrfROHKw/VeNwpe-FFKI/AAAAAAAAXOM/Jv9FLhRLaoM/s320/59-P1100173.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
All in all, I think we managed road-trip success. We may have to try it again sometime!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V8frSqpOHuk/VeNwY8YlR_I/AAAAAAAAXJw/WdliN3HzoGQ/s1600/23-P1090929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V8frSqpOHuk/VeNwY8YlR_I/AAAAAAAAXJw/WdliN3HzoGQ/s320/23-P1090929.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-48411895468782619022014-07-11T13:20:00.001-07:002014-07-11T13:20:11.933-07:00Coming Home<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--LACKcHMzco/U8BF7lfHHuI/AAAAAAAAPV4/xN7RZKXxUbo/s1600/P1070553.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--LACKcHMzco/U8BF7lfHHuI/AAAAAAAAPV4/xN7RZKXxUbo/s1600/P1070553.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<i>Our last day out in the wide sea, we tossed flowers overboard in an impromptu ritual of gratitude for our year on the ocean.</i></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<i><br /></i></div>
We've been home two weeks now and, though it still feels like we're in the honeymoon of the transition-seeing old friends, celebrating with family, hardly any actual unpacking.<br />
I'm not going to ignore the many stories I haven't shared yet but for today, I'm picking up in Astoria.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6Dq-4QAPUXE/U8A40Lgc0RI/AAAAAAAAPSE/ngAVshGg5Cw/s1600/P1070624.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6Dq-4QAPUXE/U8A40Lgc0RI/AAAAAAAAPSE/ngAVshGg5Cw/s1600/P1070624.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<i>Have you met our mascot yet? Meet Stinky Monkey. He likes to ride in new places around the boat and sometime takes a flying leap just for thrills.</i><br />
After a quick overnight in Astoria, we spent a couple of delightful days working our way up the Columbia to St. Helens, our final destination. Our autopilot doesn't like to steer in flat water so we all took turns at the helm and the girls got a few experiences they'd missed on the trip. Meira discovered the joys of steering with one's feet and Hannah steered the boat into and out of the city dock at Rainier, where we spent our last night of the journey.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oPK2T--Z_lw/U8A4xputSnI/AAAAAAAAPRY/Li7V2oPDpQQ/s1600/P1070581.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oPK2T--Z_lw/U8A4xputSnI/AAAAAAAAPRY/Li7V2oPDpQQ/s1600/P1070581.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_eoz_opCP9I/U8A4xGHThaI/AAAAAAAAPRU/9ms1uZLRKuw/s1600/P1070583.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_eoz_opCP9I/U8A4xGHThaI/AAAAAAAAPRU/9ms1uZLRKuw/s1600/P1070583.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qw1dtgF0uYc/U8A4xH6U2NI/AAAAAAAAPRQ/PIU0ekrASHc/s1600/P1070586.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qw1dtgF0uYc/U8A4xH6U2NI/AAAAAAAAPRQ/PIU0ekrASHc/s1600/P1070586.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Our first day out of Astoria, we had some heavy mist that threatened to turn nasty, so I closed up the boat and took pictures through the companionway. But the weather cleared and we all enjoyed our time navigating these familiar waters.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uPv08SrVZ2Y/U8A4xlcupWI/AAAAAAAAPRc/UPJrhvP73ek/s1600/P1070596.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uPv08SrVZ2Y/U8A4xlcupWI/AAAAAAAAPRc/UPJrhvP73ek/s1600/P1070596.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1_bsQvp86U0/U8A4yIUMeAI/AAAAAAAAPRk/f9oKGBAfVP8/s1600/P1070602.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1_bsQvp86U0/U8A4yIUMeAI/AAAAAAAAPRk/f9oKGBAfVP8/s1600/P1070602.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VEHvh6WQhAs/U8A46JJREGI/AAAAAAAAPTs/MP2vq2NH_6w/s1600/P1070611.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VEHvh6WQhAs/U8A46JJREGI/AAAAAAAAPTs/MP2vq2NH_6w/s1600/P1070611.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
We planned our return for late afternoon so our family could meet us easily. On our last little hop from Rainier to St. Helens, we blasted some dance party favorites and dodged river traffic. This tug and double barge got way too close for comfort because...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-e8BYrDHKgmI/U8A4yxa_DSI/AAAAAAAAPRs/86QhTWIm6Tc/s1600/P1070615.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-e8BYrDHKgmI/U8A4yxa_DSI/AAAAAAAAPRs/86QhTWIm6Tc/s1600/P1070615.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
...this big guy needed the deepest part of the channel.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wrl2FaX_oTQ/U8A4zElCgjI/AAAAAAAAPRw/-oNr8uEeo5M/s1600/P1070616.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wrl2FaX_oTQ/U8A4zElCgjI/AAAAAAAAPRw/-oNr8uEeo5M/s1600/P1070616.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
There was a tug coming the other way too around this time but we made it through smiling.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kEO55QliGa4/U8A4za7cbFI/AAAAAAAAPSM/8nCqJsb6pWI/s1600/P1070620.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kEO55QliGa4/U8A4za7cbFI/AAAAAAAAPSM/8nCqJsb6pWI/s1600/P1070620.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
After 2 days of travel up the river, we pulled into St. Helens the last Friday in June during the only rain squall we traveled in our entire trip.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GM2ldh686Bk/U8A40hQz34I/AAAAAAAAPSQ/wFWSkL6zqQk/s1600/P1070625.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GM2ldh686Bk/U8A40hQz34I/AAAAAAAAPSQ/wFWSkL6zqQk/s1600/P1070625.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Bryan hung our flags (though at the last minute, we couldn't find Mexico!) and <i>LiLo</i> came in with all colors flying.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uKSTZ2KtgeI/U8A4zmx47fI/AAAAAAAAPR4/guTLPNg_fW4/s1600/P1070621.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uKSTZ2KtgeI/U8A4zmx47fI/AAAAAAAAPR4/guTLPNg_fW4/s1600/P1070621.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-irzpg1YImrw/U8A4yTfmbrI/AAAAAAAAPRo/3BI2JkpmTUo/s1600/P1070606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-irzpg1YImrw/U8A4yTfmbrI/AAAAAAAAPRo/3BI2JkpmTUo/s1600/P1070606.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
Our entire time in the ocean was dry. We had rain in port a few days, but not a single day at sea. I'm an Oregonian, so I'm going to just say that again. We sailed for 10 months without rain pouring down on our heads. I can almost not believe it.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vwLvCf9nh2U/U8A41NFCjbI/AAAAAAAAPSU/hNI7bVJ1wps/s1600/P1070626.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vwLvCf9nh2U/U8A41NFCjbI/AAAAAAAAPSU/hNI7bVJ1wps/s1600/P1070626.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
But of course, our last 2 days in the Columbia, we had mist and drizzle and then, as we pulled into the city dock in St. Helens, an honest-to-goodness downpour.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cX7uo9N_id0/U8A41TPRo_I/AAAAAAAAPSY/FQGVWMxviuQ/s1600/P1070629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cX7uo9N_id0/U8A41TPRo_I/AAAAAAAAPSY/FQGVWMxviuQ/s1600/P1070629.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Our families were waiting for us with umbrellas and wet smiles and our nephew jumped aboard and squelched below, saying "Welcome back to the heart of the Pacific Northwest!"<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2iZ2GZmiAtI/U8A41tlOa9I/AAAAAAAAPSg/XSwMkP_e5Ys/s1600/P1070630.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2iZ2GZmiAtI/U8A41tlOa9I/AAAAAAAAPSg/XSwMkP_e5Ys/s1600/P1070630.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a8CvLldAIks/U8A414Fv1II/AAAAAAAAPSk/zAr2j7rdxyM/s1600/P1070631.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a8CvLldAIks/U8A414Fv1II/AAAAAAAAPSk/zAr2j7rdxyM/s1600/P1070631.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">Moving the little boat for the last time!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We went up to a local friend's house for warm coffee and drip-drying and rainbows and then drove back down to the waterfront, where we had dinner with a whole bunch of sailing friends from the delightful St. Helens Sailing Club.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sbVcISlO7b4/U8A42ZtAAFI/AAAAAAAAPSs/mwfk0WyDvS8/s1600/P1070635.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sbVcISlO7b4/U8A42ZtAAFI/AAAAAAAAPSs/mwfk0WyDvS8/s1600/P1070635.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IF3kzjwCgoo/U8A42nA5IMI/AAAAAAAAPSw/LF23Zy1E0Ss/s1600/P1070636.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IF3kzjwCgoo/U8A42nA5IMI/AAAAAAAAPSw/LF23Zy1E0Ss/s1600/P1070636.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
It was surreal and delightful to see them all in person. We enjoyed answering questions from the knowledgeable group of sailors who understood us when we sprinkled our answers with sailing lingo. Bryan's brother showed up a little late. He'd driven all the way down from the Seattle area to welcome us...and then he turned right around and drove all the way back that night. This was the triumphant return we'd dreamt about so many times.<br />
The next morning, we shifted the boat over to our new slip at the St. Helens Marina and moved home.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m6jP_D91lqo/U8A43EqXIxI/AAAAAAAAPS4/-kKGjZzKnXY/s1600/P1070638.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m6jP_D91lqo/U8A43EqXIxI/AAAAAAAAPS4/-kKGjZzKnXY/s1600/P1070638.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
It really was almost as simple as I make it sound. We packed up a bunch of necessities--clothes, toiletries, electronics, chargers, food--and shut up the boat. As Bryan and I walked away with the last load, unexpected tears escaped. He stopped for a moment to thank <i>LiLo</i>, a personal ritual. He pressed his hand to her cabin and murmured, "You're a good boat, <i>LiLo. </i>Thank you for keeping us safe."<br />
I walked ahead of him to the end of the dock and looked back to see him stopped, staring back at our slip, at this hunk of wood, glass, glue, and metal that carried us faithfully there and back again. It's hard to believe that boats don't have a personality.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I2bqhWl4mIc/U8BE-9jQ6NI/AAAAAAAAPVo/oRNlQ3Orkh0/s1600/P1070595.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I2bqhWl4mIc/U8BE-9jQ6NI/AAAAAAAAPVo/oRNlQ3Orkh0/s1600/P1070595.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
The drive home was fun, surreal, exciting.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HJ_2Of_b-ss/U8A43Y85NHI/AAAAAAAAPS8/5W4q00ykVVg/s1600/P1070639.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HJ_2Of_b-ss/U8A43Y85NHI/AAAAAAAAPS8/5W4q00ykVVg/s1600/P1070639.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kFguHypI3FY/U8A43kibuYI/AAAAAAAAPTE/j2LuaqZYCc8/s1600/P1070643.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kFguHypI3FY/U8A43kibuYI/AAAAAAAAPTE/j2LuaqZYCc8/s1600/P1070643.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
In the afternoon, we pulled into our driveway for the first time in about a year. Bryan told us all we were going to dock stern-to and the girls teased about needing to hop out for lines and fenders. We backed in without nearly the usual trouble that causes and left everything in the car in our rush to get inside and look around. Our renters had left a few days before, but my sister-in-law had stopped by and, with some help from my niece and nephew, had decorated a welcome-home banner and left us notes on all the mirrors, food in the fridge, and treats on the counter.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H0PrQYh08HE/U8A431Z6GSI/AAAAAAAAPTI/CB1f80c4y3s/s1600/P1070649.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H0PrQYh08HE/U8A431Z6GSI/AAAAAAAAPTI/CB1f80c4y3s/s1600/P1070649.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
With a fresh burst of energy, we unloaded the car, brought in and set up the beds, and started the long process of dealing with our boxes.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9SG8eH05C_o/U8A44aVKuPI/AAAAAAAAPTQ/BVk0F-w9tUg/s1600/P1070652.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9SG8eH05C_o/U8A44aVKuPI/AAAAAAAAPTQ/BVk0F-w9tUg/s1600/P1070652.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H2uf3FyQUQk/U8A45CqLAMI/AAAAAAAAPTc/aTPoqehIiDE/s1600/P1070656.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H2uf3FyQUQk/U8A45CqLAMI/AAAAAAAAPTc/aTPoqehIiDE/s1600/P1070656.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">Stinky Monkey has work to do here at home too</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The next few days we were busy with church, family visits, and the 4th of July. We had several get-togethers at various houses and even hosted a couple of people overnight in our barely-serviceable home. We did loads of laundry without quarters or a hike, took long, free showers, and caught up on sleep.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JuEnDvNsbrg/U8A48omvqGI/AAAAAAAAPUc/EN0F4GLzmE0/s1600/P1070731.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JuEnDvNsbrg/U8A48omvqGI/AAAAAAAAPUc/EN0F4GLzmE0/s1600/P1070731.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Surprisingly, the house doesn't feel enormous. I think during the 10 years we spent living there, we developed an unshakeable muscle memory about how long it takes to walk across the dining room, where the dishes are in the kitchen, how far one needs to bend over the bathroom sink.<br />
I caught up with my sisters-in-law from Bryan's family with pedicures, lunch out, and an afternoon of sangria and laughter.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iWq-qLnmNi0/U8A460nCRlI/AAAAAAAAPT8/29mcw0zz8aE/s1600/P1070710.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iWq-qLnmNi0/U8A460nCRlI/AAAAAAAAPT8/29mcw0zz8aE/s1600/P1070710.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e_b5n8J9Fy4/U8A47WnWHWI/AAAAAAAAPUA/UJTJAEZ1TXs/s1600/P1070714.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e_b5n8J9Fy4/U8A47WnWHWI/AAAAAAAAPUA/UJTJAEZ1TXs/s1600/P1070714.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
And we spent the 4th of July with both of our families, parade-watching, barbecue-eating, wood-working, and fireworks-admiring.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vaOeSPewqiw/U8A47hQ7rjI/AAAAAAAAPUI/4xNerCB6I6k/s1600/P1070717.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vaOeSPewqiw/U8A47hQ7rjI/AAAAAAAAPUI/4xNerCB6I6k/s1600/P1070717.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">My dad is helping the girls with the redwood we picked up in Crescent City </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-betjOh76ybI/U8A47_SuqJI/AAAAAAAAPUM/vSR4YybM6Ag/s1600/P1070721.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-betjOh76ybI/U8A47_SuqJI/AAAAAAAAPUM/vSR4YybM6Ag/s1600/P1070721.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
I missed this cute car at the car show but here it is on my mother-in-law's road, complete with watermelon! </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HKYDBSitp24/U8BAXh8RS3I/AAAAAAAAPVc/Xc_iC2Cg5s0/s1600/P1070722.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HKYDBSitp24/U8BAXh8RS3I/AAAAAAAAPVc/Xc_iC2Cg5s0/s1600/P1070722.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We haven't stopped enjoying the wildlife we see.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--Pd3uTCtYPQ/U8A45VloWpI/AAAAAAAAPTg/9yRi5Rkcog8/s1600/P1070660.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--Pd3uTCtYPQ/U8A45VloWpI/AAAAAAAAPTg/9yRi5Rkcog8/s1600/P1070660.JPG" height="400" width="337" /></a></div>
<br />
And we took a break from unpacking to walk to the nearby Mexican grocery store for taco fixings. Can you call them "street tacos" if you eat them in your woodsy backyard?<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1mbSYvKW3so/U8A48u2oepI/AAAAAAAAPUg/HVNJKLJoSAI/s1600/P1070723.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1mbSYvKW3so/U8A48u2oepI/AAAAAAAAPUg/HVNJKLJoSAI/s1600/P1070723.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p2SnH5-NZ6A/U8A450Ns1fI/AAAAAAAAPTo/4PlZMO-AMC0/s1600/P1070665.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p2SnH5-NZ6A/U8A450Ns1fI/AAAAAAAAPTo/4PlZMO-AMC0/s1600/P1070665.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OqY1lG-LBqU/U8A46fk_aBI/AAAAAAAAPU0/ir5dKait-2A/s1600/P1070667.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OqY1lG-LBqU/U8A46fk_aBI/AAAAAAAAPU0/ir5dKait-2A/s1600/P1070667.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
I've noticed all sorts of odd things. The smells here are so strong after a year of sea air. The freeway smells like metal and oil, the valley smells like green and brown, fertility and new growth.<br />
I expected all sorts of emotions and events during this transition. But here's one I didn't see coming. My skin is falling off. At the pedicurists, of course, but also in the car, the shower; even at my writers' group, I looked down and noticed the dry skin from my forearm leaving tiny flakes on my black pants. I don't know if it's the climate, the water, or what. Maybe it's as if my body wants to shed this year as quickly as possible. Or maybe just a visible reminder that, here or there, at sea or at home, I am becoming a new person every day.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pSCiQrHl4q0/U8BFkBXud3I/AAAAAAAAPVw/4q_0CLSVWkU/s1600/P1070552.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pSCiQrHl4q0/U8BFkBXud3I/AAAAAAAAPVw/4q_0CLSVWkU/s1600/P1070552.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-87079472025307735082014-06-27T12:56:00.000-07:002014-06-27T13:08:37.868-07:00Leg 10—San Francisco to Crescent City (and we're home!)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ohuA9tyAwTg/U63Hq5QaFwI/AAAAAAAAPOc/ywxPseTLJE8/s1600/P1070074.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ohuA9tyAwTg/U63Hq5QaFwI/AAAAAAAAPOc/ywxPseTLJE8/s1600/P1070074.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
June 7-13</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I'm writing this while sailing up the
Columbia River. I've been waiting to say those words for so long, it
doesn't seem possible that they're finally true. The water is
beautifully flat and the wind a perfect beam-reach. Of course, it's
also gray and drizzly and our auto pilot doesn't like to steer
straight in flat water (what?!) so we're all taking turns on this,
our last full day of the trip. We've done a lot since we left San
Francisco, unsure if we could make it around Cape Mendocino, much
less all the way home. We've stopped in several ports, met family,
seen Redwoods, and made friends. Stuff went wrong, usually at the
worst possible time. Our engine heater broke. Our last night at sea,
the weather didn't live up to its billing, and some of our deck
hardware still leaks so the floor is wet and squishy. But the trees
are green and lush and the river is so peaceful. Our surroundings
accurately reflect our mixed emotions about the end of this grand
adventure.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I plan to keep posting with stories
from the journey and would like to share a bit about our transition
back as well. First, here's the regular update...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q2Uf3P_4wSY/U63HoyNNOjI/AAAAAAAAPN4/YX9NGQqt1zg/s1600/P1070039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q2Uf3P_4wSY/U63HoyNNOjI/AAAAAAAAPN4/YX9NGQqt1zg/s1600/P1070039.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
We spent our last day in Pittsburg
finishing up the engine repairs (of course, one never knows at the
time whether this fix will be the last one) and getting ready to make
an attempt at heading north again. Dock neighbors invited us over to
watch California Chrome's run at the Triple Crown in the Belmont
Stakes and Meira and I took them up on their offer.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
The forecast still predicted the
possibility of a cape rounding late the next week. If we were going
to make it there in time, we needed to leave right away. So we took
off on the midnight ebb, hoping to run at least most of the way back
to San Francisco Bay before the flood tide forced us to stop. The
winds hadn't died down like they usually do at night so Bryan steered
by hand in the bucking sea. He kept an eye on the chart and developed
a rhythm of spotting the buoys—flash from the red, flash from the
green, duck behind the dodger from the spray of a wave. Flash. Flash.
Duck. Flash. Flash. Duck. Each buoy has its own light pattern,
sometimes blinking every second, sometimes 2.5 or 4. In a tight
channel, in a bouncy boat, 4 seconds feels like a long time between
orienting flashes. The V-berth flew up and down and I did too,
willing myself to relax and get some sleep. About 3 am, I heard the
unmistakable sound of anchor chain running out over the anchor
roller. I knew we were motoring in relatively shallow water and flung
myself out of bed, expecting at any moment to feel the boat lurch as
the anchor hit bottom and dug in. I threw on my foulweather jacket
and called up into the cockpit, “I'm pretty sure we just lost our
anchor!” I'd been sleeping in the sundress I'd worn all day but we
didn't have time for me to put on warmer clothes. I tossed on my
lifejacket and tethered in, steering the boat in the windy channel
while Bryan worked his way forward to check out the situation. The
anchor had come loose and, yes, had set itself in the river bottom.
Bryan pulled hard and got it back on board. I breathed a sigh of
relief as he walked back to the cockpit. But then. “Well, I got the
anchor back up, but we have a problem. The bowline is down and
wrapped around our prop shaft.” We're always really careful when we
tie up our dock lines, for this very reason. Somehow, one of them had
come loose anyway and fallen overboard. We think that it hooked the
anchor as it went and when it pulled taut, popped the anchor free of
its tie-downs. We'd heard the engine choke but it never quit, so the
prop itself must have bit through the line and kept turning. We
couldn't run out with a line around our shaft, though, so we prepped
for an attempt to free it. I put on some pants and a warm hat, almost
certain we would have to sail back to the dock in the dark and miss
our weather window (did I mention it was 3 am? Everything is dire at
3 am.) I knew there was no way Bryan would risk diving on the prop in
these conditions. But he was more determined than I and we spent a
few minutes revving the engine in forward and reverse until the line
finally broke free.
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LdlagXJUx08/U63HqX0KObI/AAAAAAAAPOY/lp3DhYnAApI/s1600/P1070062.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LdlagXJUx08/U63HqX0KObI/AAAAAAAAPOY/lp3DhYnAApI/s1600/P1070062.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I took off my gear and crawled back
into bed, trying to let go of the adrenaline. It took me a while to
fall asleep but when I woke in the morning, we were through the
Carquinez Strait, headed back toward SF Bay, and Bryan was grinning. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EpOpLkgTLqI/U63Ho6g2SlI/AAAAAAAAPN8/1bC7745c_Tc/s1600/P1070043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EpOpLkgTLqI/U63Ho6g2SlI/AAAAAAAAPN8/1bC7745c_Tc/s1600/P1070043.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
“I thought we were going to stop when the tide turned,” I said.
“We never slowed down too much, so I just kept going,” he
answered. He'd already been up for 24 hours but we really needed to
get north as fast as possible, so we decided to try to run all the
way out through the Golden Gate instead of waiting for the afternoon
ebb. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-59JFrmXuJkY/U63HpRc4pbI/AAAAAAAAPOI/DqtAAk0O8L4/s1600/P1070053.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-59JFrmXuJkY/U63HpRc4pbI/AAAAAAAAPOI/DqtAAk0O8L4/s1600/P1070053.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Fog at the gate kept both of us on watch. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wHtUw9tPLWc/U63Hr9J58HI/AAAAAAAAPOo/iDmmQTQyBEc/s1600/P1070076.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wHtUw9tPLWc/U63Hr9J58HI/AAAAAAAAPOo/iDmmQTQyBEc/s1600/P1070076.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Every 2 minutes, our
new foghorn announced our existence to the other ships at sea. We
stayed out of the shipping channels and watched the fog give way to a
smooth ride. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GIFme2DEu0w/U63HtNu3NFI/AAAAAAAAPOw/zfK7CDKElHw/s1600/P1070087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GIFme2DEu0w/U63HtNu3NFI/AAAAAAAAPOw/zfK7CDKElHw/s1600/P1070087.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Bryan got a few hours of rest while the girls and I kept
watch. Later in the afternoon, the winds and seas picked up again and
after his night watch, he just stayed up for most of the next day to
bring us safely into Fort Bragg. We'd intentionally skipped this
small harbor on our way down; the bar was notoriously rough and
narrow with a channel so shallow, big seas can knock your boat
against the bottom. As soon as a scratchy bar report came in on our
radio, we listened hard, trying to figure out if the entrance would
be safe for us in the high swell. At first, we only heard the bad
news: “8-10 foot rollers...” If we had to surf down 10 foot waves
in the middle of an 80 ft wide channel with underwater rocks on both
sides, well...nope. We'd just turn around a head back to Bodega Bay.
But we really didn't want to lose all those hard-won miles. A couple
hours before we reached the entrance, I called the Coast Guard for a
personalized report. The boats they use for rescues and their other
work have the same draft (require the same depth) as LiLo and they
clarified the bar report a bit. Yes, there were 8-10 foot rollers in
the channel but in near the jetty tips, the waves would only be 1-2
feet. We gritted our teeth through the last few rough miles and then
navigated the tricky bar without a problem. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VhESdmbFbS8/U63HuM_UG1I/AAAAAAAAPO4/YR_KQSS2ncc/s1600/P1070099.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VhESdmbFbS8/U63HuM_UG1I/AAAAAAAAPO4/YR_KQSS2ncc/s1600/P1070099.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Well-lit range markers
helped us line up our entrance just right. If we got off to one side,
the light would show red; to the other, green. I stood on the
companionway steps and peered out through the dodger window calling,
“White, white, white, red, red, RED, white, white, green, white...”
while Bryan fought with the tiller to keep the boat straight to the
swell. In only a few minutes, the seas began to calm down and then we
were inside the jetties and motoring up the beautiful Noyo River.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aiY12h2KCBg/U63HuS90RiI/AAAAAAAAPO8/cwalOnkNh2Y/s1600/P1070108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aiY12h2KCBg/U63HuS90RiI/AAAAAAAAPO8/cwalOnkNh2Y/s1600/P1070108.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
We spent a day and a half in Fort
Bragg. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d9sBrq5nVlY/U63HvGKSM4I/AAAAAAAAPPE/yPA2JZl6pgQ/s1600/P1070114.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d9sBrq5nVlY/U63HvGKSM4I/AAAAAAAAPPE/yPA2JZl6pgQ/s1600/P1070114.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4QBs1SgIaqc/U63HwcBDu1I/AAAAAAAAPPQ/a1uAiYnwK5s/s1600/P1070116.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4QBs1SgIaqc/U63HwcBDu1I/AAAAAAAAPPQ/a1uAiYnwK5s/s1600/P1070116.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You know you're back in the northwest when...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
There was pizza and grocery shopping and bumming a ride to the
gas station. There were walks on the tree-lined lanes and a narrow
escape from an angry baby skunk. There were reassuring conversations
with the commercial fishermen who had been waiting 4 weeks to round
the cape. There was a visit to the Coast Guard station to gather
information and offer our thanks (These were the only Coast Guard personnel we
met on this trip, thankfully. When one travels by sea, one hopes the
Coast Guard remains a supportive, anonymous voice on the radio since
it usually takes a crisis to meet them in person.) And then there
were a few anxious moments reenacting the bar crossing in reverse. The Coast Guard boat had just returned from checking the bar and, as we drove by their station in the narrow river, one Coastie called over, "Where are you headed today?" It was more than just friendly conversation. They knew the conditions and wanted to know if they would need to come out after us for a rescue. When we hollered back that we were just heading up to Shelter Cove, not trying for a cape rounding just yet, he visibly relaxed before wishing us well. We motored past the flashing rough-bar warning lights and even though I knew the conditions were just rough, not dangerous, they still gave me a moment's pause. I stood on the steps again, looking backwards this time, keeping an
eye on the range lights while Bryan stood at the tiller, facing the
steep oncoming waves.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nteNn-cnOh0/U63HwrjmZ5I/AAAAAAAAPPU/AmpNPCrXTYY/s1600/P1070131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nteNn-cnOh0/U63HwrjmZ5I/AAAAAAAAPPU/AmpNPCrXTYY/s1600/P1070131.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
We spent the day running up to Shelter
Cove, just south of Cape Mendocino, and anchored in the bay for the
night. </div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z4i4_f1ofMk/U63Hybs1EGI/AAAAAAAAPPg/7nALTIVpoMw/s1600/P1070143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z4i4_f1ofMk/U63Hybs1EGI/AAAAAAAAPPg/7nALTIVpoMw/s1600/P1070143.JPG" height="268" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gUh6oh7uEEU/U63HyRlGgzI/AAAAAAAAPPk/DwiuYmzBss4/s1600/P1070142.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gUh6oh7uEEU/U63HyRlGgzI/AAAAAAAAPPk/DwiuYmzBss4/s1600/P1070142.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bId_ehtGe8A/U63H01R-7_I/AAAAAAAAPQM/QmFBtn5eATo/s1600/P1070152.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bId_ehtGe8A/U63H01R-7_I/AAAAAAAAPQM/QmFBtn5eATo/s1600/P1070152.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
We pulled in one last weather report—yes, the cape
conditions were still supposed to calm down soon—and set the alarm
for 4 am. Whether it was the rolly anchorage or the worry about the
cape, neither Bryan nor I got much sleep that night. We were up by 4,
hauling up the anchor and heading for the cape. For several months,
my parents had been tentatively planning a trip to the Redwoods to
meet us. During our uncertain days in the Delta, they'd regularly
been in touch to offer encouragement and support. We planned and
rescheduled and gave up and planned again. They gave up hotel
reservations and made new ones and kept clients and piano students on
call. A lot was riding on this cape rounding!</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
We got to the cape around 9 am but even
with the calmer winds, the seas were still some of the worst we've
had. We'd timed the rounding to coincide with a favorable tide, so we
had a bit of a push from the current. Still, we spent a few hours
wondering if we were going to make it. The forecast had predicted
lighter conditions on the northern portion of the cape so I kept
checking our location on the chart and wondering if the seas were
smoother or if my imagination had just gotten better. Soon there
wasn't any doubt; by early afternoon we'd broken through into the
smoothest conditions since southern California.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-e0xdlZKlg3s/U63H3EnJTqI/AAAAAAAAPQk/jTMNTN2S4Aw/s1600/P1070158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-e0xdlZKlg3s/U63H3EnJTqI/AAAAAAAAPQk/jTMNTN2S4Aw/s1600/P1070158.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fzNCuprniXU/U63H1vdLvBI/AAAAAAAAPQY/DOM2bTCw7pw/s1600/P1070156.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fzNCuprniXU/U63H1vdLvBI/AAAAAAAAPQY/DOM2bTCw7pw/s1600/P1070156.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kude-N6x2E8/U63H22xJHqI/AAAAAAAAPQg/3R6zGZuIClE/s1600/P1070157.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kude-N6x2E8/U63H22xJHqI/AAAAAAAAPQg/3R6zGZuIClE/s1600/P1070157.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
We'd told my parents we hoped to make
it into Crescent City by 11am, maybe 9 if we were lucky. But we made
fabulous time and even had to slow down outside the entrance to wait
for dawn. By 5am, we could see the rocks guarding the bay (Yay for
northern latitude sailing! Yay for the summer solstice!) and as Bryan
steered us toward the outer buoy, I made an excited phone call to my
early-bird father. “We'll be there in an hour!”</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GgxXjObG7dU/U63H3q-PQPI/AAAAAAAAPQw/0ofKzUh5DM8/s1600/P1070168.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GgxXjObG7dU/U63H3q-PQPI/AAAAAAAAPQw/0ofKzUh5DM8/s1600/P1070168.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
We still had almost 400 miles to go. We
weren't even back in Oregon yet. But as we walked up the dock to meet
the familiar white van it seemed the transition home had begun.
</div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
A friend recently asked me how I was
going to handle returning to boring life on land. I know what she
means and I wasn't at all offended by the question. But I think my
life on land was, and will once again be, anything but boring. She would likely
even say the same about her life, filled as it is with satisfying
work, loving family, interesting travel, and an adorable grandson.
Her life is not boring because she is not a boring person and refuses
to be bored. (Being bored is for boring people.) My return
may—hopefully will—bring a little more predictability. I'm ready
for a little more predictability! But I am coming back to family I
love, a summer of unpacking and camping and reading and using a
dishwasher and showering whenever I feel like it. And then the new
school year and new opportunities for work and creativity arise.
There will still be wildlife sightings, even if chickadees are more
common than humpbacks. I will still encounter people of (not-so) rare
generosity and graciousness, find deep joy in spending time with my
family, and be surprised by beauty in my daily world. I know this
because this is the life I chose to live before I left, the attitude
I took to sea with me, the intention I bring back home.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-otuAcTNtgYQ/U63H0R7zRFI/AAAAAAAAPQE/EP0T5t-SmpE/s1600/P1070147.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-otuAcTNtgYQ/U63H0R7zRFI/AAAAAAAAPQE/EP0T5t-SmpE/s1600/P1070147.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-44715976669160109512014-06-18T23:45:00.000-07:002014-06-18T23:45:32.322-07:00Intermission—Sacramento/San Joaquin River Delta<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-12E2jEQGojE/U6IK35a94MI/AAAAAAAAMRI/bQo5onQoc9w/s1600/P1060768.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-12E2jEQGojE/U6IK35a94MI/AAAAAAAAMRI/bQo5onQoc9w/s1600/P1060768.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We left San Francisco Bay on the tide, with the flood of our friends' encouragement behind us. The winds were perfect, as predicted, and we were able to sail away from Aquatic Park, past Alcatraz, behind Angel Island, and through San Pablo Bay into the Carquinez Strait, the entrance to the Sacramento/San Joaquin River Delta. My (limited) understanding is that the delta is a human-fortified natural feature. The skinny Carquinez Strait causes a build-up of silt and deposits from the rivers. Though there were naturally occurring islands in the Delta before then, in the mid-1800's, Chinese laborers and private land owners built a massive levee system to regulate the rivers and prevent flooding. The land is especially fertile and, though some of the levees have been allowed to disintegrate and certain tracts are flooded, many others are still part of this highly productive agricultural area. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UdrKmybaQeA/U6IK3x9h12I/AAAAAAAAMRY/4uOI97uW2ts/s1600/P1060779.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UdrKmybaQeA/U6IK3x9h12I/AAAAAAAAMRY/4uOI97uW2ts/s1600/P1060779.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_OivOu1PZTQ/U6IK3p2xsiI/AAAAAAAAMRE/BzfoUrPSUig/s1600/P1060780.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_OivOu1PZTQ/U6IK3p2xsiI/AAAAAAAAMRE/BzfoUrPSUig/s1600/P1060780.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
If you catch the flood tide just right, you can ride it a long ways up river as it runs. The ebb falls away as you try to head out the other direction, but we didn't need to think about that just yet. We spent a glorious day sailing downwind up the river and stopped before anyone even thought of getting tired. After all the long passages on our way north, it was simply lovely to remember how enjoyable a short day sail can be.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T00MJ0iBjAM/U6IK4RMt3CI/AAAAAAAAMRU/6T0iBEoT-Wk/s1600/P1060799.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T00MJ0iBjAM/U6IK4RMt3CI/AAAAAAAAMRU/6T0iBEoT-Wk/s1600/P1060799.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nvG-vMg5Zd4/U6IK9skO81I/AAAAAAAAMRs/X7sgEpbSzv4/s1600/P1060805.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nvG-vMg5Zd4/U6IK9skO81I/AAAAAAAAMRs/X7sgEpbSzv4/s1600/P1060805.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
We passed under the Carquinez Bridge and sailed a few more miles on up the river to the little town of Martinez. Hannah and I didn't lounge around the whole way though.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9LHGyaLOgvk/U6IK7cT6JMI/AAAAAAAAMRk/nT4v98yvPoM/s1600/P1060801.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9LHGyaLOgvk/U6IK7cT6JMI/AAAAAAAAMRk/nT4v98yvPoM/s1600/P1060801.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
As we passed the C&H sugar refinery, Bryan called us all up on deck to breathe in the rich, sweet smells.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-40AXOLiQCOg/U6IK90QjsaI/AAAAAAAAMR0/aIkbYt3IJEs/s1600/P1060806.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-40AXOLiQCOg/U6IK90QjsaI/AAAAAAAAMR0/aIkbYt3IJEs/s1600/P1060806.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
We called a few marinas and found an open slip at the marina in Martinez. Only when we had already tied up and checked in did the harbormaster inform us of the shallow depths at the entrance. "You won't be able to leave with the tide in the morning, you know," he said. "We haven't dredged here in years and you'll have to wait for high tide to get back out through the entrance." We'd noticed the shoal on our way through, and the shallow depths at the dock, but it hadn't seemed <i>that</i> shallow. After we did the math, it seemed like we wouldn't have to wait all the way to high tide, which was a good thing, as we can't make much way against the ebbing tide.<br />
Bryan and I took a walk through the nearby bird sanctuary. A pair of swans presided over noble geese and fuzzy goslings. As we settled in for the night, the boat settled into the mud and we all slept well in the stillness.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jHrCB2ZjHcw/U6IK-JTIJUI/AAAAAAAAMRw/RijLIDfnq38/s1600/P1060812.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jHrCB2ZjHcw/U6IK-JTIJUI/AAAAAAAAMRw/RijLIDfnq38/s1600/P1060812.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rht-PT678ZA/U6IK-jszCsI/AAAAAAAAMSE/heNS_8NbON4/s1600/P1060815.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rht-PT678ZA/U6IK-jszCsI/AAAAAAAAMSE/heNS_8NbON4/s1600/P1060815.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The next morning, we heard a knock on our hull. We expected it to be the harbormaster with a question, but when Bryan poked his head up, he found one of our friends from boat night in San Francisco, the woman who lives aboard her sailing scow. We hadn't ever talked about where she keeps her boat, but we managed to stumble into her marina! Our keel was resting on the bottom for the moment, so we couldn't leave anyway. She invited us down for a quick tour of her amazing home and antique <a href="http://www.nps.gov/safr/historyculture/hicksengine.htm">Hicks engine</a> and we exclaimed all the way back to our dock about the delightful serendipity.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PzEthHPeJMo/U6ILH_9evUI/AAAAAAAAMS0/09LNozPOlkc/s1600/P1060832.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PzEthHPeJMo/U6ILH_9evUI/AAAAAAAAMS0/09LNozPOlkc/s1600/P1060832.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See the sweet little sailing barge? That's <i>Squarehead!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
She encouraged us to explore the town a little and gave us directions to "...the bakery with the best croissants I've had since France." Well, that was all we needed to get us going. We walked into town and tried out the famous croissants ourselves. On the way, we overheard people making plans for some sort of town celebration in the afternoon and saw signs for a Farmer's Market as well. We walked back to the marina and paid to stay another night--just because we could.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tYySAiZ9ff8/U6ILAc0QRyI/AAAAAAAAMSM/E0yRwSP-Qzo/s1600/P1060821.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tYySAiZ9ff8/U6ILAc0QRyI/AAAAAAAAMSM/E0yRwSP-Qzo/s1600/P1060821.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Later in the day, we walked back up to see what the celebration was all about. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QhA3JqFjptk/U6ILCVY-cyI/AAAAAAAAMSY/pVlgFxaAzG0/s1600/P1060824.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QhA3JqFjptk/U6ILCVY-cyI/AAAAAAAAMSY/pVlgFxaAzG0/s1600/P1060824.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NGBRP8X2gRE/U6ILCPB-LyI/AAAAAAAAMSU/t8ICp-GT6hE/s1600/P1060823.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NGBRP8X2gRE/U6ILCPB-LyI/AAAAAAAAMSU/t8ICp-GT6hE/s1600/P1060823.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We thought someone had said it was a Benjamin Moore celebration but that seemed strange—the paint company? Sure enough, Martinez had won some sort of contest and Benjamin Moore was going to repaint Martinez's Main Street. The bakery had brought free cake for everyone and there was balloon art and a photo booth. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DVymOjtsQ3Q/U6ILCtKZ2gI/AAAAAAAAMSc/IUdERZ5M3BE/s1600/P1060826.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DVymOjtsQ3Q/U6ILCtKZ2gI/AAAAAAAAMSc/IUdERZ5M3BE/s1600/P1060826.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We felt a little silly joining in the festivities, but the energy was contagious. We balanced out all the cake with some fruit from the market at the other end of Main Street.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nhrpA5dYppI/U6ILFSy3O_I/AAAAAAAAMSs/5DYHs2Hs12k/s1600/P1060827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nhrpA5dYppI/U6ILFSy3O_I/AAAAAAAAMSs/5DYHs2Hs12k/s1600/P1060827.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
On our way back we stopped to watch this sweet little guy in the tree. We'd gotten used to seeing lizards in the trees of Mexico, it was fun to be back in the land of squirrels.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Later that evening, Bryan and I slipped up into town in search of live music. We'd heard there was a great little cafe well known for their music. As we approached the cafe, though, the music was so loud we couldn't bring ourselves to walk in. We were in the mood for a little quieter location and walked several blocks before finding a small restaurant with classy decor and a jazz trio. Even that was a little loud for conversation, so we found a couple of seats outside out of the wind and enjoyed the music through the windows as we talked. You'd think we'd have plenty of time to talk on the boat but, especially as the trip winds down, we have a lot of processing and planning to do. On long passages, we're hardly ever up at the same time and even when we are, it's hard to find the space to have a private conversation on a boat where the head is the only room with a door.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
By the time the tide had risen the next day to let us out of the marina entrance, we didn't have much travel time left. But we didn't care. We didn't come up the Delta to rush. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c-E9mRzmqYs/U6ILIohWJmI/AAAAAAAAMS8/p78KY5D0Tr8/s1600/P1060836.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c-E9mRzmqYs/U6ILIohWJmI/AAAAAAAAMS8/p78KY5D0Tr8/s1600/P1060836.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d_QGrqrBQSg/U6ILKlXaD1I/AAAAAAAAMTE/KTjfrmtI0eE/s1600/P1060840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d_QGrqrBQSg/U6ILKlXaD1I/AAAAAAAAMTE/KTjfrmtI0eE/s1600/P1060840.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We made it another few miles upriver and pulled into a small inlet to anchor for the night. We made a fabulous dinner and Bryan even baked a cake.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8I5Z6bXYY2A/U6ILOe_iBBI/AAAAAAAAMTQ/yYVRNy48aBI/s1600/P1060857.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8I5Z6bXYY2A/U6ILOe_iBBI/AAAAAAAAMTQ/yYVRNy48aBI/s1600/P1060857.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
After the sun went down, we could see the red lights of the wind turbines across the water flashing like a herd of giant robots.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vHIYttHTFOc/U6ILOHyMhiI/AAAAAAAAMTM/JrHsHpYT7Xg/s1600/P1060859.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vHIYttHTFOc/U6ILOHyMhiI/AAAAAAAAMTM/JrHsHpYT7Xg/s1600/P1060859.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The next day brought more bridges, more beautiful sailing, more easy miles.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C1VrQ2YpQpQ/U6ILPJh_RUI/AAAAAAAAMTc/3RIeyyA2E2U/s1600/P1060868.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C1VrQ2YpQpQ/U6ILPJh_RUI/AAAAAAAAMTc/3RIeyyA2E2U/s1600/P1060868.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
We pulled in about an hour before sunset to Potato Slough, a spot that had been recommended more than once by our friends in the area. We were surprised to see the designated anchorage taken over with semi-permanent boats, so we swung back around the corner to anchor in a shallow spot on the side of the slough. We dropped the anchor twice, but couldn't get it to set either time. We motored out a little more where we could anchor in a little deeper water but once again it dragged as we tried to back it down. We were getting a little nervous about finding a safe spot before dark in this unlit, unfamiliar area. And Bryan was getting weary of hauling the anchor and chain up again and again. We'd never had this much trouble getting it to set! Finally, we pulled back around to where our friend, Al, had said to anchor. It was beautiful, that's for sure, with what looked like a cormorant rookery in the giant tree on shore. But it seemed like a strange place; the depths shoaled from 50 feet to 10 in just a couple of boat lengths and there wasn't a whole lot of room to swing. We dropped our anchor and it set the first time, nice and secure. We laughed at ourselves for not listening to "local knowledge" and settled in for a peaceful night.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-37oypoTQfyk/U6ILQkEtkmI/AAAAAAAAMTk/ukNXhuCB0jI/s1600/P1060883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-37oypoTQfyk/U6ILQkEtkmI/AAAAAAAAMTk/ukNXhuCB0jI/s1600/P1060883.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The next morning, we checked the weather again. We'd had Bryan's cell service and data plan reinstated just for this purpose. We didn't want to obsess over the weather while we were waiting for it to change. But if a window opened up, we didn't want to miss it because we were playing around in the Delta. With no window in sight to get around Cape Mendocino, we made plans to continue on our lazy Delta exploration. We pulled up the anchor and motored the 2 1/2 miles around the corner to a marina called Pirate's Lair. This lush, green oasis drew us in and calmed our worried spirits.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-scTk0KH2YBk/U6J2_W2PFmI/AAAAAAAAMUI/8oVFXFkR4FI/s1600/P1060891.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-scTk0KH2YBk/U6J2_W2PFmI/AAAAAAAAMUI/8oVFXFkR4FI/s1600/P1060891.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QM_3YgAhuTA/U6IJ_I9ogCI/AAAAAAAAMPk/v-hJETQeaQ0/s1600/P1060903.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QM_3YgAhuTA/U6IJ_I9ogCI/AAAAAAAAMPk/v-hJETQeaQ0/s1600/P1060903.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
We stopped in at the little cafe for ice cream and french fries and Bryan and I walked down the road a few steps to the ice dispenser for a bag of ice for our icebox. I'd never seen a machine that dispensed ice before so as Bryan inserted quarters and pressed the button, I shamelessly took pictures.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kP6yRFfV36A/U6J2_mh6nLI/AAAAAAAAMUM/TlFcuJeKfFk/s1600/P1060892.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kP6yRFfV36A/U6J2_mh6nLI/AAAAAAAAMUM/TlFcuJeKfFk/s1600/P1060892.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BZjJWOaAstw/U6J2_yFtx5I/AAAAAAAAMUQ/PD9eCP1BRVo/s1600/P1060896.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BZjJWOaAstw/U6J2_yFtx5I/AAAAAAAAMUQ/PD9eCP1BRVo/s1600/P1060896.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
While we were at Pirate's Lair, the evening weather check showed a possible 24-hour weather window opening up around the cape. We'd been keeping our eye on the winds around Cape Mendocino for several weeks now, watching for any weather patterns that might help us plan our trip north. As long as we'd been watching, there had been gale force winds and crazy high seas predicted in the area. We knew we might only get a few hours of calm weather to get around the nasty point and would need to be in position to take advantage of them. If the forecast held, we'd need to skedaddle in a hurry. We set aside our plans to head further up into the Delta and tried to settle our excited nerves. We wondered if we'd made a mistake by coming up at all if it meant we wouldn't be able to make the run up to the cape in time to take advantage of the brief good weather. The girls heard us worrying aloud and quickly made and hung 2 signs in prominent places on the boat. They read, "NO! You are NOT allowed to second guess yourself, EVER!" </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U8hNvU319s4/U6IKAFRHaUI/AAAAAAAAMPs/tszVCH3kn1c/s1600/P1060909.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U8hNvU319s4/U6IKAFRHaUI/AAAAAAAAMPs/tszVCH3kn1c/s1600/P1060909.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is my best "NO!" face. There's a story but you'll have to ask me in person sometime.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We all agreed to shelve our worries for the night. In the morning, before the tide, Bryan and I went up to the cafe for a "weather conference." Someday, the girls will learn that weather conferences almost always include something delicious but at least for this morning, they stayed asleep while we ate pancakes and checked the latest forecast. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EXEq2hlIduY/U6IKAvIg_rI/AAAAAAAAMQA/d7FaUHsdBWg/s1600/P1060917.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EXEq2hlIduY/U6IKAvIg_rI/AAAAAAAAMQA/d7FaUHsdBWg/s1600/P1060917.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Overnight, the predicted calm had disappeared off the extended forecast but we decided we'd rather start heading back anyway than get caught even further away from the Cape if something did open up. We did a little engine maintenance and Bryan took advantage of the warmth and the fresh water to dive on the prop and replace the zinc. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
On our way back downriver, we took a short cut up 3-mile slough to the Sacramento River. We'd come upriver in the San Joaquin, but we wanted to take the girls under a lift bridge and the closest route took us under the one in 3-mile slough. As we pulled into the entrance of the slough, we caught the edge of a shoal a little too close and ran aground. We'd been traveling downriver on a ebb tide, so we knew we just had a few minutes to try to get off the shoal before we'd be stuck for hours, until the tide ran all the way out and the flood came in high enough to lift us off again. We revved the engine to clear the area around the rudder and sallied ship for all we were worth, swinging our body weight in unison from one side of the ship to the other. Sometimes, all it takes to release a boat is that last little inch or two and if the crew can tip the tip of the boat just enough, the keel will swing the other way and lift off the bottom. After a couple of frantic minutes, it worked! We pointed the bow back toward deeper water and headed on down the river. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DEgA9HuXXPA/U6IKA3fTVDI/AAAAAAAAMP8/Bfb9ZvdA1zE/s1600/P1060924.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DEgA9HuXXPA/U6IKA3fTVDI/AAAAAAAAMP8/Bfb9ZvdA1zE/s1600/P1060924.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
A few minutes before we reached the bridge, we called the bridge tender on the radio. We'd checked the details about this bridge already to confirm that there would be a tender available when we got there. The tender responded cheerfully to our request and almost instantly, the bridge started rising. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L2D6aAWD1jc/U6IKBf3QH8I/AAAAAAAAMQE/de6gNAW3NwQ/s1600/P1060930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L2D6aAWD1jc/U6IKBf3QH8I/AAAAAAAAMQE/de6gNAW3NwQ/s1600/P1060930.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We waited until we were sure our mast would clear and motored slowly through.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eL4rA-5Fbec/U6IKB4B1SbI/AAAAAAAAMQM/cthcP_iSzIE/s1600/P1060935.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eL4rA-5Fbec/U6IKB4B1SbI/AAAAAAAAMQM/cthcP_iSzIE/s1600/P1060935.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In the peaceful afternoon breeze, I wedged myself in to a favorite spot and read aloud to Bryan at the tiller and the girls below. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0z4QoSr5970/U6IKChpE-FI/AAAAAAAAMQc/16cVtyWtTDc/s1600/P1060959.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0z4QoSr5970/U6IKChpE-FI/AAAAAAAAMQc/16cVtyWtTDc/s1600/P1060959.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I took a little break to marvel at the wind surfers in the river and the enormous wind turbines rotating slowly above the wheat fields.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ypXXwPKRCQ4/U6IKCr1LYMI/AAAAAAAAMQg/Vw2CNO4C_WQ/s1600/P1060946.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ypXXwPKRCQ4/U6IKCr1LYMI/AAAAAAAAMQg/Vw2CNO4C_WQ/s1600/P1060946.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ESUw9PMmdQ8/U6IKCUg4iqI/AAAAAAAAMQk/EtfjrF9tvaQ/s1600/P1060954.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ESUw9PMmdQ8/U6IKCUg4iqI/AAAAAAAAMQk/EtfjrF9tvaQ/s1600/P1060954.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
About the time the tide started turning against us, we turned up a little channel and pulled into the lovely marina at Pittsburg.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_CM8IryZjrg/U6IKDp7HStI/AAAAAAAAMQw/wvG8kYFhbxQ/s1600/P1060979.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_CM8IryZjrg/U6IKDp7HStI/AAAAAAAAMQw/wvG8kYFhbxQ/s1600/P1060979.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4vik6oDZqjY/U6IKDedpSKI/AAAAAAAAMQo/hWYVLtxml6U/s1600/P1060977.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4vik6oDZqjY/U6IKDedpSKI/AAAAAAAAMQo/hWYVLtxml6U/s1600/P1060977.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
My <a href="http://www.svlilo.com/2014/06/recalculating_6.html">whiny post</a> from a week or so ago tells most of the stories from Pittsburg so I'll just add a few last pictures of Hannah doing some late-night prep before our midnight departure. We'd had these weathercloths made in Mexico to protect us at sea on the way back north. The wind and spray were never too bad and somehow we made it all the way to San Francisco before getting them installed. We're hoping that putting them on now doesn't give the weather gods permission to test them with bad conditions!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mQTwBr-WUH0/U6IPBl7_DII/AAAAAAAAMTw/c7nsF5mPnig/s1600/P1070021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mQTwBr-WUH0/U6IPBl7_DII/AAAAAAAAMTw/c7nsF5mPnig/s1600/P1070021.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uh6mtB1QQW4/U6IPBqJOHeI/AAAAAAAAMT0/07rwjx7Gfag/s1600/P1070022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uh6mtB1QQW4/U6IPBqJOHeI/AAAAAAAAMT0/07rwjx7Gfag/s1600/P1070022.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-51644450425574374212014-06-18T14:34:00.000-07:002014-06-18T14:34:49.937-07:00Intermission—San Francisco<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qjDcpror-hA/U6HDmcOCG8I/AAAAAAAAMKs/KiBcpfLb3WE/s1600/P1060650.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qjDcpror-hA/U6HDmcOCG8I/AAAAAAAAMKs/KiBcpfLb3WE/s1600/P1060650.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
May 23-29</div>
<div class="p1">
We pulled into San Francisco on May 23rd with a little work to do. Meira turned 13 on the 24th, and we had no gifts or concrete plans to make her birthday a special one. By the time Bryan and I spent the afternoon in town, we’d pulled together a few surprises we hoped she’d like. He picked out a new game for her and couldn’t wait for her birthday to let her open it. They spent the whole evening (and quite a bit of the night) laughing and trash-talking over the new game. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-58d8bBKrZFE/U6CWNrZpK5I/AAAAAAAAMEo/vfHcLziek4c/s1600/P1060639.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-58d8bBKrZFE/U6CWNrZpK5I/AAAAAAAAMEo/vfHcLziek4c/s1600/P1060639.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
The next morning, I spent a pleasant hour wrapping scarves around her gifts, pulling out cards our family had sent ahead, and baking her requested birthday breakfast—ginger scones with strawberries and lemon curd. When I couldn’t wait any longer, I woke the rest of the family and we greeted her with a birthday song. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-937wdLzDujo/U6CWN7KeEqI/AAAAAAAAMEs/T_xyQCwMpwo/s1600/P1060643.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-937wdLzDujo/U6CWN7KeEqI/AAAAAAAAMEs/T_xyQCwMpwo/s1600/P1060643.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yOiQ67TUQUg/U6CWN_qMhII/AAAAAAAAMEw/BIoVLxRZBkQ/s1600/P1060646.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yOiQ67TUQUg/U6CWN_qMhII/AAAAAAAAMEw/BIoVLxRZBkQ/s1600/P1060646.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
After breakfast and gifts (though last-minute, she was quite pleased), we rowed to shore and set off on a hunt for some internet. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K9-oghRM3Y0/U6HDmZsvj8I/AAAAAAAAMK0/yq0k6OT7688/s1600/P1060649.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K9-oghRM3Y0/U6HDmZsvj8I/AAAAAAAAMK0/yq0k6OT7688/s1600/P1060649.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We spent the morning just the way the birthday girl had hoped—setting up a new Facebook account. Bryan helped Meira with her account while I sat down the bar with Hannah doing the same. Soon, messages were flying among our various devices as the girls tried out their new toy.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Elqh-UfibV8/U6HDmTmsIwI/AAAAAAAAMKw/H11h5P4tu6M/s1600/P1060652.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Elqh-UfibV8/U6HDmTmsIwI/AAAAAAAAMKw/H11h5P4tu6M/s1600/P1060652.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
For lunch, Meira had requested dim sum in Chinatown. We walked the few blocks up and spent quite a while looking for the restaurant we’d eaten at when we visited in October. We couldn’t remember its name or what street it was on, and we’d come into the district from a different direction. Construction further complicated matters. We were all pretty hungry, but no one got snippy as we worked to piece together a community recollection. We were just about ready to give up and walk into the next open doorway when we spotted it. Whew! </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4LFwz0o5gRY/U6HDnMuJL-I/AAAAAAAAMK4/zjoUAoyD8c0/s1600/P1060654.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4LFwz0o5gRY/U6HDnMuJL-I/AAAAAAAAMK4/zjoUAoyD8c0/s1600/P1060654.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V1RkDigYLn8/U4TORv52DjI/AAAAAAAALsk/9CH6zKq-SAc/s1600/20140524_170424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V1RkDigYLn8/U4TORv52DjI/AAAAAAAALsk/9CH6zKq-SAc/s1600/20140524_170424.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We all enjoyed the dim sum but Meira had really come for the green tea ice cream. She savored every bite and I promised to look up a recipe for when we have a freezer again. We considered finding a bakery we’d discovered on our last visit too. We were afraid we were really pushing our luck, but after only a few more minutes of purposeful wandering, we turned up the right street. This time, we made a note of the cross streets so we could come back later for more of the cheap, delicious buns and pastries. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TFBXJmGxVq4/U6HDnvNxoMI/AAAAAAAAMLE/AF0xswQT1aI/s1600/P1060659.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TFBXJmGxVq4/U6HDnvNxoMI/AAAAAAAAMLE/AF0xswQT1aI/s1600/P1060659.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We walked back to the waterfront, grabbed some chocolate and wi-fi in Ghirardelli Square, and rowed back to the boat. Meira challenged Bryan to a Star Realms rematch and once again, they stayed up late, laughing while I laid in bed listening, so grateful for our 13 years with this amazing human being.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-acFu1g54VII/U6HDtUNYH7I/AAAAAAAAMMs/SdVq2mcApB4/s1600/P1060713.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-acFu1g54VII/U6HDtUNYH7I/AAAAAAAAMMs/SdVq2mcApB4/s1600/P1060713.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We’d hoped to celebrate Meira’s birthday, see a bit of the town, and move on. But the weather was having none of that and, as we checked the stormy forecast, we were feeling a little bit down about getting stuck in the bay. In the morning, I got a call from our friend Al, who we’d met on the way down. “Don’t you ever get out of bed?” he asked. “I’ve been anchored off your starboard bow for an hour now and haven’t seen any signs of life!” </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MGizZm8M3yY/U6HDoCtIWrI/AAAAAAAAMLI/OvruQLaZVBA/s1600/P1060661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MGizZm8M3yY/U6HDoCtIWrI/AAAAAAAAMLI/OvruQLaZVBA/s1600/P1060661.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We quickly rustled the crew into presentable clothes and into the dinghy for a row over to greet our unexpected guest. We’d hoped to connect with him while we were in town but he’d had some last minute things come up, so we hadn’t been sure it was going to work out. When we climbed aboard, he handed us a gift bag with home-canned tuna, a bottle of wine, and Jack London’s <i>The Cruise of the Dazzler</i>, a book he based on his youthful experiences sailing in the San Francisco Bay. He also pulled out a chart of the Sacramento/San Joaquin River Delta. “If you’re going to be here a while,” he said, “you might want to consider heading up the Delta for a few days. It’s a downwind run all the way up and it’s warm.” It wasn’t <i>just</i> the promise of warmth that led us to take his advice (his previous advice had led us to Isla Isabel, after all) but it was a pretty big factor. We didn’t relish the idea of anchoring out in the Bay for another week or two, with cold nights turnings to chilly mornings and no heat on the boat. He couldn’t stay long, but we left his boat with new energy and better attitudes about the forced time in the Bay area.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BypstZ-7CnE/U6HDoCUIGsI/AAAAAAAAMLM/T0WorBgAk20/s1600/P1060676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BypstZ-7CnE/U6HDoCUIGsI/AAAAAAAAMLM/T0WorBgAk20/s1600/P1060676.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We spent that afternoon running some errands (Bryan) and writing (me) and Monday, just hung out on the boat for the day. Tuesday, we spent quite a bit of time getting ready to leave for the Delta. We walked up to Chinatown and stocked up on baked goods and hung out in the library for a while on our way back. That night, we loaded up backpacks and grocery bags and headed out for some final provisioning. Only a block or so up from our dinghy, we came across a raised dutch door and jumped and craned to see what was going on inside. We were greeted by a cheerful contingent of industrious crew.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v96RrGzOGh8/U6HUsv53zvI/AAAAAAAAMO0/6cIEeAeeSL0/s1600/20140527_192020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v96RrGzOGh8/U6HUsv53zvI/AAAAAAAAMO0/6cIEeAeeSL0/s1600/20140527_192020.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
We'd anchored there in Aquatic Park twice now and had seen the signs for the swimming and rowing clubs there in the bay. But we hadn't ever officially met anyone from the group or seen inside the building. They invited us in and we gladly stepped up into the shop where a small group of volunteers were working on a lovely rowboat. We exchanged stories, got a tour of the facilities, and ended up sticking around for the weekly "boat night" dinner. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O533nrOpgW4/U6HUtDmR19I/AAAAAAAAMO4/6DpXkcqhf14/s1600/20140527_202324.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O533nrOpgW4/U6HUtDmR19I/AAAAAAAAMO4/6DpXkcqhf14/s1600/20140527_202324.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
Meira spent a few minutes sanding with the crew and Hannah and I gravitated to the warm kitchen and helped get dinner on the table for the 30 hungry crew. Over dinner, we chatted with several interesting people. One new friend offered to meet us in the morning for more Delta recommendations. Another told the story of how she worked her way from land-lubber to shipwright and shared stories about her unique home, one of the last 3 remaining sailing barges (called sailing scows) from the fleet of hundreds that once plied the bay and delta waters. By the time the evening was over, we'd committed to spending just one more night in the bay. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KmFsLtEgZTE/U6HUsyM9tvI/AAAAAAAAMO8/XCpU7e2aG5U/s1600/20140527_202402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KmFsLtEgZTE/U6HUsyM9tvI/AAAAAAAAMO8/XCpU7e2aG5U/s1600/20140527_202402.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>LiLo</i> is in the center of this shot. It was fun to get a view of the other side of this dock, for once</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
That gave us just enough time to pick up groceries, explore the amazing Maritime Museum and the boats at the Hyde Street Pier, and eat a little more Ghirardelli Chocolate. First thing the next morning, we met up with Nick at the swimming club and he gave us more recommendations for our time in the delta. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2jifEogr5tc/U6HDoWyuAvI/AAAAAAAAMLQ/i-eOmE7-zDM/s1600/P1060678.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2jifEogr5tc/U6HDoWyuAvI/AAAAAAAAMLQ/i-eOmE7-zDM/s1600/P1060678.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We finally got ourselves to the grocery store and lugged our groceries back to <i>Rover. </i>The girls and I sat on the beach while Bryan rowed them all out to the boat. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zKkIr7-lJKU/U6CXVRVqAsI/AAAAAAAAMG0/KNsBBB4ZnVQ/s1600/20140527_184728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zKkIr7-lJKU/U6CXVRVqAsI/AAAAAAAAMG0/KNsBBB4ZnVQ/s1600/20140527_184728.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Then it was time for a little fun. Our last time in SF, the national parks were closed due to the government shutdown. This time, we walked over to the Hyde Street Pier and the Maritime National Historical Park. The museum was filled with stories and antiquated technology we still use on our boat today. Knots, lines, blocks, cleats—they may be old, but they're not obsolete. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ksO5z0h9Au8/U6HDpDJ5O4I/AAAAAAAAMLc/dOcbfNzTgco/s1600/P1060690.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ksO5z0h9Au8/U6HDpDJ5O4I/AAAAAAAAMLc/dOcbfNzTgco/s1600/P1060690.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
On the pier, we stopped by the boat building shop</div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1JPTXL7M9N0/U6HDo6EnGnI/AAAAAAAAMLU/I-2cwv2hwtM/s1600/P1060686.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1JPTXL7M9N0/U6HDo6EnGnI/AAAAAAAAMLU/I-2cwv2hwtM/s1600/P1060686.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
...and explored the <i>Balclutha</i>, the only square-rigged ship left in the San Francisco Bay area.</div>
<div class="p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--BdPqVNUOEo/U6HDusNZ2kI/AAAAAAAAMNE/sYIV9tJvChw/s1600/P1060719.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--BdPqVNUOEo/U6HDusNZ2kI/AAAAAAAAMNE/sYIV9tJvChw/s1600/P1060719.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7Yd7DPUo70E/U6HDvgFDP5I/AAAAAAAAMNU/-OqsUvfXCsE/s1600/P1060736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7Yd7DPUo70E/U6HDvgFDP5I/AAAAAAAAMNU/-OqsUvfXCsE/s1600/P1060736.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>LiLo </i>dwarfed by the majestic <i>Balclutha</i> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l6myd3aFsfM/U6HDpzo9JkI/AAAAAAAAMLs/_by34922ZWg/s1600/P1060692.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l6myd3aFsfM/U6HDpzo9JkI/AAAAAAAAMLs/_by34922ZWg/s1600/P1060692.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K4DLw48UGLY/U6HDqQi0RII/AAAAAAAAMLw/hOpaFXCAras/s1600/P1060693.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K4DLw48UGLY/U6HDqQi0RII/AAAAAAAAMLw/hOpaFXCAras/s1600/P1060693.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3nbFndAvJhY/U6HDrCh7mpI/AAAAAAAAML8/n9msRr-igOE/s1600/P1060695.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3nbFndAvJhY/U6HDrCh7mpI/AAAAAAAAML8/n9msRr-igOE/s1600/P1060695.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kdsD8p7xX58/U6HDr_i4xBI/AAAAAAAAMMU/Z2gxYuIwb68/s1600/P1060701.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kdsD8p7xX58/U6HDr_i4xBI/AAAAAAAAMMU/Z2gxYuIwb68/s1600/P1060701.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xL6XrgBO2PI/U6HDshzoEDI/AAAAAAAAMMg/N1lT-elHZcU/s1600/P1060702.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xL6XrgBO2PI/U6HDshzoEDI/AAAAAAAAMMg/N1lT-elHZcU/s1600/P1060702.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ccg5Lq_RQg0/U6HDs96xgGI/AAAAAAAAMOc/K3bSGiifhRU/s1600/P1060707.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ccg5Lq_RQg0/U6HDs96xgGI/AAAAAAAAMOc/K3bSGiifhRU/s1600/P1060707.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s4452egiwXo/U6HDs_Rl7MI/AAAAAAAAMMk/2YftGJrabxo/s1600/P1060712.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s4452egiwXo/U6HDs_Rl7MI/AAAAAAAAMMk/2YftGJrabxo/s1600/P1060712.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tq-y0GQTKtg/U6HDuByM0iI/AAAAAAAAMM4/mm5i62DbXt8/s1600/P1060715.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tq-y0GQTKtg/U6HDuByM0iI/AAAAAAAAMM4/mm5i62DbXt8/s1600/P1060715.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NFtFnP2t81A/U6HDuBuYw-I/AAAAAAAAMM8/dM6vcjSpJoI/s1600/P1060718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NFtFnP2t81A/U6HDuBuYw-I/AAAAAAAAMM8/dM6vcjSpJoI/s1600/P1060718.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Thanks to the previous night's recommendation from one of our new friends, we also had to check out<i> Alma, </i>this 2-masted schooner scow. In the 1880's, there was a fleet of 250+ sailing barges working the Bay and the Sacramento/San Joaquin Delta. Their square shape and shoal draft made it possible to carry lots of freight and sit flat on the bottom at low tide. The friend who told us about these unique boats lives aboard <i>Squarehead, </i>a smaller version of the <i>Alma</i>. </div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KMkibbKv9zw/U6HDuwib7HI/AAAAAAAAMNI/4sUN5z2M4ho/s1600/P1060726.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KMkibbKv9zw/U6HDuwib7HI/AAAAAAAAMNI/4sUN5z2M4ho/s1600/P1060726.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
With our last few hours in the bay, we grabbed some delicious dinner and splurged on sundaes at Ghirardelli Square.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k0XfCfdFWNs/U6HDwMUmHdI/AAAAAAAAMNc/Qi3zu5TtYxM/s1600/P1060742.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k0XfCfdFWNs/U6HDwMUmHdI/AAAAAAAAMNc/Qi3zu5TtYxM/s1600/P1060742.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ALUvsglV1xo/U6HDwcPuLfI/AAAAAAAAMNk/zqYOyXQj3WM/s1600/P1060750.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ALUvsglV1xo/U6HDwcPuLfI/AAAAAAAAMNk/zqYOyXQj3WM/s1600/P1060750.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
Just because we're not on a typical vacation doesn't mean we never do tourist-y things. We all had fun squishing pennies in the penny squishing machine.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5FKN1CHJ6eo/U6HDw9GsGwI/AAAAAAAAMNw/VlWrzfSyTuE/s1600/P1060752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5FKN1CHJ6eo/U6HDw9GsGwI/AAAAAAAAMNw/VlWrzfSyTuE/s1600/P1060752.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EwwPsKyI3u8/U6HDxP3EvnI/AAAAAAAAMN0/6GDS42VZP6M/s1600/P1060755.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EwwPsKyI3u8/U6HDxP3EvnI/AAAAAAAAMN0/6GDS42VZP6M/s1600/P1060755.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
After another gorgeous sunset row back to <i>LiLo</i>, Bryan and Hannah had one more errand to run. Early in our trip, Hannah's old sneakers started breaking down. At one point, I even thought there were frogs where we were hiking but no, it was just her squeaky sneakers. We had a hard time finding affordable shoes on our walks through our various destinations so she just kept wearing them. In Mexico, she switched to flip-flops and eventually we found some new shoes for the trip home. She'd really loved her old shoes and had a hard time with the thought of getting rid of them until one day she declared, "I know! I'll leave my <i>sole</i> in San Francisco!" Here's photo proof of my punny girl.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4cBCVLhpNd8/U6HDxl0tWuI/AAAAAAAAMOE/I03ivsEtbJk/s1600/P1060760.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4cBCVLhpNd8/U6HDxl0tWuI/AAAAAAAAMOE/I03ivsEtbJk/s1600/P1060760.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
Thursday morning, someone moved the little boat marker on our <a href="http://www.svlilo.com/2014/03/legs.html">ceiling map</a> and we took off with the tide for a grand adventure up the Delta.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lS9NE9SBCnA/U6CYtzKPZuI/AAAAAAAAMIA/xVQp31vAljA/s1600/20140529_194357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lS9NE9SBCnA/U6CYtzKPZuI/AAAAAAAAMIA/xVQp31vAljA/s1600/20140529_194357.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-5726986012971502702014-06-17T12:05:00.000-07:002014-06-17T12:05:52.933-07:00Leg 7 (and 1/2) and 8—Morro Bay to San Francisco<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-68NkDMtvB3U/U4Tz2j-dwkI/AAAAAAAAL1g/igvtbpSQRoU/s1600/P1060497.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-68NkDMtvB3U/U4Tz2j-dwkI/AAAAAAAAL1g/igvtbpSQRoU/s1600/P1060497.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
May 15 to May 23</div>
<div class="p1">
On our way south, we’d only stopped in Morro Bay for a few hours. We needed fuel and, with the help of a friendly harbor patrol member, drove up to the propane station before taking off for a quick run around Point Conception. Even in the short time we spent there, we were charmed by the hospitable town so we were very much looking forward to a longer stay there on our way back.</div>
<div class="p1">
Our first evening in town, we spent a few minutes finding a safe place for <i>LiLo</i>. Morro Bay doesn’t have very much transient moorage and all the public docks have a 3-hour limit. We pulled into one of the public docks anyway and walked down to the Morro Bay Yacht Club to see if they had space on their small dock. They didn’t, but we met some other visiting sailors at the yacht club building and they let us into the club where we found instructions about picking up a guest mooring for the night. We walked back to the public dock and motored over to the mooring, then rowed across the narrow channel to the club’s dinghy dock. We didn’t get very far on our walk toward town before the lure of a nearby Thai restaurant pulled us in. We ended up at a table adjacent to the other sailors and exchanged a few pleasantries and travel details before our food came and our mouths were occupied with more important things.</div>
<div class="p1">
The next day, we spent a slow morning getting caught up on sleep and small chores after our days at sea. One of the boats at the dock took off so we popped over and grabbed their spot. Bryan and I packed up our computers and walked up to a cafe for a little while. He left me to do some writing and went back to the boat to crack the whip on the girls for a little cleaning up. When he came back to get me, he looked a little worried. “I think I just lost a filling while I was eating my granola bar,” he said. Of course, most of the dentists in town were already closed for the weekend. We spent quite a bit of time and all my cell-phone battery trying to make an appointment for early in the week. None of the dentists would guarantee and one-stop fix, though; they all wanted to have Bryan come in for an assessment and some x-rays before scheduling the filling for another time. We talked over the problem from every direction, trying to decide if it would be safe to leave the filling until our time in San Francisco, wondering how long our emergency dental filling material would hold up. One of the dentists had reassured us that, if it wasn't hurting already, it probably wouldn't start over the weekend. We made a tentative appointment for Tuesday in the next town over, hoping we could find transportation when the time came and then set aside the problem, which we couldn't do anything about anyway, and walked back to the boat. </div>
<div class="p1">
While I'd been writing, Bryan had stopped by the yacht club to check in and pay for our moorage. The person he'd talked to there invited us to come back to the club in the evening, when they would be having a small get-together with other club members. So we did. We met several really nice people and Bryan had a really good beer. James, one of our new friends, invited us to come crew for him during Sunday's big-boat race. Apparently, dinghy racing happens on Saturday and the big boats go out for an ocean race on Sundays here. I wondered if the race would be called off with all the winds and high seas that were predicted. </div>
<div class="p1">
<div class="p1">
Saturday, we had a slow morning. Bryan and I wandered up to the bakery for pastries and then back to the boat for a few chores. There was a steady stream of people up and down on the dock, some on their own boat, several from the Cal Poly sailing team. While 2 teammates at a time went out sailing, we chatted with whoever was left behind. The girls especially connected with Anna, the one female sailor in the crew. Besides being a sailor, she is a musical, formerly home-schooled animal lover who loves to read and dabbles in historical reenactment. We couldn’t believe all the similarities! Before she left, she invited us to join her at her parents’ house for dinner. I said, “Sure! All we have to do while we’re here is find a dentist!” She started to laugh. “My dad’s a dentist!” Apparently he no longer practices, but called us later in the evening to extend his own welcome and give us a bit of advice. “It’s likely just a small chip,” he said, “but when you come on Monday, I’ll pull out a dental mirror and take a look.”</div>
<div class="p1">
Sunday, we moved the boat back to the mooring to leave room at the dock for the race boats. Bryan and Meira rowed over to join in. Here’s photo proof of how much they enjoyed it (and how glad I was to stay behind!)</div>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0zJfProOZnc/U4Tz6jg4n1I/AAAAAAAAL14/40q-Npg7cMs/s1600/P1060546.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0zJfProOZnc/U4Tz6jg4n1I/AAAAAAAAL14/40q-Npg7cMs/s1600/P1060546.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--8c7sKK_65s/U4Tz7Dqv9AI/AAAAAAAAL18/3-ImZaZmwgw/s1600/P1060553.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--8c7sKK_65s/U4Tz7Dqv9AI/AAAAAAAAL18/3-ImZaZmwgw/s1600/P1060553.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
It's hard to explain, but here, Meira found it easier to sit on the wall of the cockpit, legs dangling over the low side, than to sit on the seat at its wild angle. (For any non-sailors...or other mothers of daredevil girls...this is perfectly safe, totally normal for these conditions. But even Bryan admits it was a little hard to relax when his baby was riding like this and scrambling all over the boat as racing crew:-)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Frq7QicAGIg/U4Tz7kByvYI/AAAAAAAAL2I/lsvNzku5D4E/s1600/P1060556.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Frq7QicAGIg/U4Tz7kByvYI/AAAAAAAAL2I/lsvNzku5D4E/s1600/P1060556.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QTfTgWfZxPE/U4Tz9OrawnI/AAAAAAAAL2Q/-0k8GJa6Qq4/s1600/P1060558.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QTfTgWfZxPE/U4Tz9OrawnI/AAAAAAAAL2Q/-0k8GJa6Qq4/s1600/P1060558.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L4j97K9Wv1c/U4Tz9ThgUeI/AAAAAAAAL2U/GaBN0IRLTsw/s1600/P1060560.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L4j97K9Wv1c/U4Tz9ThgUeI/AAAAAAAAL2U/GaBN0IRLTsw/s1600/P1060560.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8tkg1tZO6AY/U4Tz-WuSPGI/AAAAAAAAL2g/qOAbOoJfJmQ/s1600/P1060565.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8tkg1tZO6AY/U4Tz-WuSPGI/AAAAAAAAL2g/qOAbOoJfJmQ/s1600/P1060565.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Both Bryan and Meira came back with wet feet from working the side decks with the toe rails submerged. They also brought back rosy cheeks, cold hands, and enormous grins.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dAbib2BMNCw/U4Tz3TbYuCI/AAAAAAAAL1w/c_ugUZQ6ZM4/s1600/P1060545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dAbib2BMNCw/U4Tz3TbYuCI/AAAAAAAAL1w/c_ugUZQ6ZM4/s1600/P1060545.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
That night, after they helped get all the race boats back to the dock in the strong winds, we headed up to a local cafe to hear <a href="http://adrianbellue.com/">Adrian Bellue</a>, a harp guitarist from the area. Chilled from the day at sea (and the day on the boat with no heat!), we settled in for a warm evening of hot chocolate and good music.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lUGZp-GEs5M/U4TQFKQbpxI/AAAAAAAALsw/xZP7f3x5aDc/s1600/20140518_191115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lUGZp-GEs5M/U4TQFKQbpxI/AAAAAAAALsw/xZP7f3x5aDc/s1600/20140518_191115.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Monday, we started getting the boat ready to go back to sea. It doesn’t take long to get lazy about putting things away. Thankfully, it doesn’t take too long to put things reasonably to rights again. In the evening, our new friend picked us up and drove us out of town a ways to her family’s house. Her parents and sister welcomed us so graciously. They probably had no idea how grateful we were for every detail of the night. Their house was lovely and spacious, with wonderful views down into green valley. I stood at the back window and breathed in the peace. Their menu choices included fresh cheese, good meat, and lots of fresh vegetables—all of which are difficult in our small, refrigerator-less galley. And for dessert, they brought out ice cream! We made our own sundaes and stood around the kitchen chatting. Anna’s dad administered a mini-dental exam right there in the kitchen. Sure enough, Bryan had just lost a small chip from one of his back molars. It might need to be polished a little, but we don’t need to worry about it until we get home. </div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Soon the conversation turned to music and before I knew it, I was playing their piano, Anna and her sister improvising along on their violins. Meira pulled out her recorder and an accordion appeared from somewhere. Good food, good company, good music—the night was a feast all around.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-epnqHXf0UzA/U4T0AtrC7bI/AAAAAAAAL2o/vFE5ORJC8dY/s1600/P1060584.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-epnqHXf0UzA/U4T0AtrC7bI/AAAAAAAAL2o/vFE5ORJC8dY/s1600/P1060584.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Tuesday, we met James on the dock again. He is a part-time delivery skipper and was getting a boat ready to go. He generously loaned us his truck and we ran up the hill for gas and groceries. Wednesday morning, we pulled away from the dock, so grateful for our extended time in Morro Bay.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-acRqCEGUQOU/U4T0ApL9VMI/AAAAAAAAL2s/bWxh2wLgmk4/s1600/P1060597.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-acRqCEGUQOU/U4T0ApL9VMI/AAAAAAAAL2s/bWxh2wLgmk4/s1600/P1060597.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p2">
</div>
<div class="p1">
The motor up to San Francisco Bay was relatively uneventful. It was a bit rough at times, and the engine seemed to have developed an unnerving cough. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UExF-0_BXrs/U4T0Cms1PcI/AAAAAAAAL3Q/a9va9Dkg0ZY/s1600/P1060609.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UExF-0_BXrs/U4T0Cms1PcI/AAAAAAAAL3Q/a9va9Dkg0ZY/s1600/P1060609.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
But the weather smoothed out enough for us to pull in under the bridge just before the ebb tide turned against us. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wz2XOsia8cQ/U4T0FDjP1TI/AAAAAAAAL3c/0sIpa12N5RU/s1600/P1060613.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wz2XOsia8cQ/U4T0FDjP1TI/AAAAAAAAL3c/0sIpa12N5RU/s1600/P1060613.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8iuKa__RxHw/U4T0FsD_LtI/AAAAAAAAL3k/gTw7jNUnJs8/s1600/P1060619.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8iuKa__RxHw/U4T0FsD_LtI/AAAAAAAAL3k/gTw7jNUnJs8/s1600/P1060619.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lxW8BrmkjC8/U4T0HNwNPoI/AAAAAAAAL30/O3RN4gfDe3I/s1600/P1060626.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lxW8BrmkjC8/U4T0HNwNPoI/AAAAAAAAL30/O3RN4gfDe3I/s1600/P1060626.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We were glad to have the AIS on in the morning fog, but by the time we anchored in familiar Aquatic Park, the fog had lifted and the city beckoned.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IQS98jTbnvA/U4T0Hip58sI/AAAAAAAAL38/Ro3FAmc-0mM/s1600/P1060628.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IQS98jTbnvA/U4T0Hip58sI/AAAAAAAAL38/Ro3FAmc-0mM/s1600/P1060628.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-otxGlQURoEc/U4T0IauKLoI/AAAAAAAAL4E/fO2gft0Lqug/s1600/P1060630.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-otxGlQURoEc/U4T0IauKLoI/AAAAAAAAL4E/fO2gft0Lqug/s1600/P1060630.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Aju_1Ga7o5w/U4T0I-N_9KI/AAAAAAAAL4M/OA1FrLqWs-4/s1600/P1060631.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Aju_1Ga7o5w/U4T0I-N_9KI/AAAAAAAAL4M/OA1FrLqWs-4/s1600/P1060631.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9J7CGUF9xXU/U4T0Jcxru1I/AAAAAAAAL4Y/ELfJQ7rvd-4/s1600/P1060635.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9J7CGUF9xXU/U4T0Jcxru1I/AAAAAAAAL4Y/ELfJQ7rvd-4/s1600/P1060635.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6NV9Vo9FdZ0/U4T0KOH19bI/AAAAAAAAL4g/uliwDNTeIXo/s1600/P1060636.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6NV9Vo9FdZ0/U4T0KOH19bI/AAAAAAAAL4g/uliwDNTeIXo/s1600/P1060636.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-17778845553003541332014-06-06T23:04:00.003-07:002014-06-06T23:04:49.307-07:00Recalculating<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0fl-i33DlMw/U5KpEkO_2GI/AAAAAAAAL8A/CVpZTnfPbiI/s1600/P1060992.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.44444465637207px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0fl-i33DlMw/U5KpEkO_2GI/AAAAAAAAL8A/CVpZTnfPbiI/s1600/P1060992.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">I'm
sitting on the dock, trying to stay out of the way while Bryan works
on the engine. Again. We came into San Francisco Bay almost 2 weeks
ago, celebrated Meira's birthday in San Francisco style, and then,
when the weather showed no sign of letting us around Cape Mendocino,
headed up into the Sacramento/San Joaquin River Delta for a few days
of relaxing interspersed with semi-obsessive weather-checking. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zr-AvhTL5mY/U5KoyI7YsbI/AAAAAAAAL7g/6F0f3jqyMnc/s1600/P1060898.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.44444465637207px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zr-AvhTL5mY/U5KoyI7YsbI/AAAAAAAAL7g/6F0f3jqyMnc/s1600/P1060898.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">When a
tiny weather window seemed possible, we started the bash back down
the river. In a boat as slow as ours, you have to time your runs with
the ebbing tide and this week, the ebb inconveniently starts running
about the time the afternoon headwinds pick up. </span>
</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">Our
first day heading back, we made it to the lovely marina in Pittsburg,
spent a relaxing afternoon and took off the next day with the tide. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nI4usmKutRM/U5KozRN16BI/AAAAAAAAL7w/bPBTtC2oWa4/s1600/P1060975.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.44444465637207px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nI4usmKutRM/U5KozRN16BI/AAAAAAAAL7w/bPBTtC2oWa4/s1600/P1060975.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">Only a few miles out, our engine coughed and died. Bryan tore into
the engine compartment (we might not run Man Overboard drills as
often as we should, but we're experts at the
clear-the-engine-compartment-and-stand-back sort) and squeezed the
priming bulb. Empty. Somewhere in the fuel line, we were sucking in
air. While I sailed back upriver, he replaced the priming bulb. This
time, the pressure held and we turned back downriver, relieved it was
such an easy fix. But only a few minutes later, the engine started
coughing again. Again, I sailed with the wind upriver while he
upended himself in the engine compartment. He tried something or
replaced something else—I don't know; I was sailing!—and we
started the motor up again and turned downriver. Soon, it was clear
that hadn't been the problem and we sailed back upriver again. This
pattern repeated itself all afternoon until he'd exhausted the
on-river fix possibilities and I grew bewildered by the repeated
change in direction. The channel was narrow, with a shallow area on
one side and a military zone on the other, complete with forbidding
signage. “Restricted: Explosives” </span>
</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">Every
time we turned around, we were in a slightly different place in the
river, and I kept the chart handy to remind myself of the hazards,
leaning down to check on it in between trying to stay clear of the
buoys and spot the next ones. <br />The ebb tide slacked and the flood
began. We wouldn't be going anywhere else tonight. So we turned
upriver for good and sailed the few miles back to Pittsburg. Bryan
flipped on the ailing engine at the breakwater, but we didn't need it
for docking. The crew worked the sheets and lines just right and got
us tied up and safe. </span>
</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">Bryan
and I walked several miles up the road to the auto parts store for
carb cleaner and he spent the evening cleaning and rebuilding the
carburetor in a dishpan (so none of the important parts would fall
overboard.) When he got everything back together again, it wouldn't
start at all. </span>
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-41Hg2Uw5Iw0/U5Kpatzkj4I/AAAAAAAAL8I/5LRJL4CCA7M/s1600/P1060993.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.44444465637207px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-41Hg2Uw5Iw0/U5Kpatzkj4I/AAAAAAAAL8I/5LRJL4CCA7M/s1600/P1060993.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;">A
neighbor noticed us working late and came by to see what was up. We
filled him in and he ran back to his boat for ice cream for the
girls, chocolate for me, wine for Bryan, and a cruising guide to the
Bay. In the midst of trouble, the kindness of strangers.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">The
next morning, Hannah and I took her last 3 math lessons to town and I
wrote and worried while she knocked them out. Bryan and Meira stayed
behind and Bryan spent the day working on the engine. By the time Hannah and I got
back with cupcakes for an end-of-school celebration, Bryan thought he
might have figured out the issue. Next, we orchestrated a
mini-rescue. The dishpan had flown away in the breeze and floated,
just out of reach near the breakwater. Some passing kayakers took on
the challenge and retrieved it for us. </span>
</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">In
the evening, Bryan and I left the girls on the boat and went into
town for some R&R. When we'd come into town the first time, we'd
seen signs for the Pittsburg Culinary Crawl. We didn't expect to
still be around when it happened, but we didn't mind too much when it
turned out we were. For only $10 per person, we joined a couple
hundred locals on a progressive appetizer tour of 6 downtown
restaurants. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WE_kA-iItD4/U5Kpim2G9tI/AAAAAAAAL8k/444UAIwtV2Q/s1600/P1070009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.44444465637207px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WE_kA-iItD4/U5Kpim2G9tI/AAAAAAAAL8k/444UAIwtV2Q/s1600/P1070009.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j_Ay_gkXJjs/U5KpnbmiB3I/AAAAAAAAL84/IYvKJNTnb4U/s1600/P1070010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.44444465637207px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j_Ay_gkXJjs/U5KpnbmiB3I/AAAAAAAAL84/IYvKJNTnb4U/s1600/P1070010.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">There were free desserts at the local sweet shop, cheap
beer and soda at the Mexican place, live music in the park, and a
raffle (we crossed our fingers that we wouldn't wind tickets to
something we couldn't attend.) </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pQr2rTpFxyY/U5Kpp1UXsmI/AAAAAAAAL9A/y93GO9G9PNQ/s1600/P1070013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.44444465637207px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pQr2rTpFxyY/U5Kpp1UXsmI/AAAAAAAAL9A/y93GO9G9PNQ/s1600/P1070013.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">We met many great people, some of whom
gave us their phone numbers in case we couldn't get the engine fixed
and needed anything. </span>
</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">We
left Friday afternoon, hoping to make it a few miles downriver before
the flood tide began, hoping to catch the midnight tide across the
bar and out to sea. The wind was high and we weren't making very good
progress. And then, only a few miles out, the engine died again. So
we turned around again. This time Bryan coaxed it into helping us
back to “our” slip at the guest dock. </span>
</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;">The
weather at the cape still looks bad, but there is a small possibility
of getting around it late next week if we can sneak our way closer to
it during the decent weather near the San Francisco Bay. With every
engine issue, this possibility grows less and less likely. We've
started checking marina prices and Amtrak schedules.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">All
along, we've been grateful we broke down here, where moorage is cheap
and parts relatively convenient. Some friends of ours got stuck in
Bahia Tortugas for 5 weeks trying to get their transmission fixed.
But still. The constant uncertainty is starting to wear heavily. One
hour we're readying the boat and ourselves for an ocean passage, the
next we're living with our house transformed into an auto shop,
galley and bunks inaccessible, and the plans for our return on hold
again. </span>
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LlruG3zwcec/U5Ko83hmaPI/AAAAAAAAL74/Cltv2FJGuyw/s1600/P1060986.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.44444465637207px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LlruG3zwcec/U5Ko83hmaPI/AAAAAAAAL74/Cltv2FJGuyw/s1600/P1060986.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It takes all our flexibility and patience to live with each other under these conditions. No steps to the cockpit, someone always in the way. The engine is in front of the stove and the tools end up everywhere. Stress levels are a little high.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NH8B7nOMneE/U5Kpd43T-jI/AAAAAAAAL8c/Nmet15hDE7M/s1600/P1060998.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.44444465637207px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NH8B7nOMneE/U5Kpd43T-jI/AAAAAAAAL8c/Nmet15hDE7M/s1600/P1060998.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;">Bryan's
company is ready for him to come back. Our renters are moving out.
We've looked into the possibility of leaving the boat and coming back
in the fall or next spring to get it all the way home. Our friends
and family have been encouraging. They don't care how we get home, as
long as we're safe. No one but us feels like it would be an
anticlimactic way to end our trip. But we're not quite ready to make
that call yet.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;">A
few years ago, I drove around downtown Portland with my
sister-in-law. We knew where we were going, but we flipped the
navigation system on just in case. It tried to send us down the main
highway but we took the smaller surface streets to beat the traffic.
Its monotone kept interrupting our conversation. “Recalculating,”
it said, “recalculating.” After several minutes, we turned down a
road that had been closed due to construction. Just then, the
long-suffering navigation system gave up. I glanced down at the
screen. “Fatal Error,” flashed across the map.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;">There
could be worse problems. We get this. We're safe, healthy, warm, fed.
There's even a frozen yogurt shop just up the way. But my brain feels
a bit like that GPS. I've recalculated so many times in the last few
days, I can feel my energy and drive shutting down. Fatal Error.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-decoration: none;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W9V_N45YuHo/U5KoyKXegUI/AAAAAAAAL7k/9mmn_rhYCzM/s1600/P1060968.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.44444465637207px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W9V_N45YuHo/U5KoyKXegUI/AAAAAAAAL7k/9mmn_rhYCzM/s1600/P1060968.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And
the whistle on the northbound train echoes across the marina.</span></span></div>
Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-64862998131479234722014-05-28T06:00:00.000-07:002014-05-28T06:00:01.195-07:00Leg 7 (and 1/2)—San Diego to Morro Bay<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b0gJ5xUNPe4/U4TjtKTMLuI/AAAAAAAALt4/iT7sN_4ears/s1600/P1060346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b0gJ5xUNPe4/U4TjtKTMLuI/AAAAAAAALt4/iT7sN_4ears/s1600/P1060346.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We loved our time in the Channel Islands on our way down and were so excited to stop there on the way back, we made San Miguel Island the end of our 7<span class="s1">th</span> leg. </div>
<div class="p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kl2qJA6lc4Q/U4Tj0MfqnXI/AAAAAAAALu4/hIFAjt6S9bk/s1600/P1060384.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kl2qJA6lc4Q/U4Tj0MfqnXI/AAAAAAAALu4/hIFAjt6S9bk/s1600/P1060384.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
But as we did a little pre-visit research, we found that the National Park Service has closed the island indefinitely due to some recently discovered unexploded ordnance from long ago when the island was used for bombing training runs. We were disappointed to miss out on another chance to spend time on that unique island, but made plans to take a hike on Santa Rosa Island instead. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qz8TfBQ1h3A/U4Tj38yZz7I/AAAAAAAALvM/e6g3obZkm4A/s1600/P1060389.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qz8TfBQ1h3A/U4Tj38yZz7I/AAAAAAAALvM/e6g3obZkm4A/s1600/P1060389.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
Bryan had spotted the 9-mile Lobo Canyon hike listed on the park brochure when we were in the area in October, but we didn't have time for him to hike it. After a smooth night Monday and a speedy Tuesday (we even managed to sail some of the way!), we pulled into the anchorage at Becher's Bay about 9:30 on Wednesday morning. </div>
<div class="p1">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kmmmcRtIWvc/U4TjvYAGr3I/AAAAAAAALuM/aEo3ps5dlQg/s1600/P1060355.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kmmmcRtIWvc/U4TjvYAGr3I/AAAAAAAALuM/aEo3ps5dlQg/s1600/P1060355.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
</div>
<div class="p1">
Bryan convinced the girls and me to come along with the promise that we didn't need to hike all the way to the mouth of the canyon. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lTKKSJWUGoM/U4Tjtv76CII/AAAAAAAALuA/OPfNE7VMDAs/s1600/P1060350.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lTKKSJWUGoM/U4Tjtv76CII/AAAAAAAALuA/OPfNE7VMDAs/s1600/P1060350.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We tied up to the pier, climbed the ladder to the deck level, and enjoyed the view before heading into shore. </div>
<div class="p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XzCABJ-J4MY/U4TjtPTMI9I/AAAAAAAALt0/BVxKKU8K45U/s1600/P1060353.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XzCABJ-J4MY/U4TjtPTMI9I/AAAAAAAALt0/BVxKKU8K45U/s1600/P1060353.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UTJUBW0_DjY/U4Tjwu-DglI/AAAAAAAALuU/ee12K75nOCs/s1600/P1060361.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UTJUBW0_DjY/U4Tjwu-DglI/AAAAAAAALuU/ee12K75nOCs/s1600/P1060361.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-324BF9_B6f4/U4TjxVVVSwI/AAAAAAAALuk/9YKrEi7n-30/s1600/P1060368.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-324BF9_B6f4/U4TjxVVVSwI/AAAAAAAALuk/9YKrEi7n-30/s1600/P1060368.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RZQjicrZKLc/U4TjzdAs3_I/AAAAAAAALus/B_-mRIjZrGg/s1600/P1060376.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RZQjicrZKLc/U4TjzdAs3_I/AAAAAAAALus/B_-mRIjZrGg/s1600/P1060376.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
We walked the dusty Smith Highway in the heat from the Santa Ana winds, and rationed our water, hoping to refill our bottles in the canyon's “year-round stream.” </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nC_Fi_RutCg/U4TkFfESY9I/AAAAAAAALxE/NdHPZvR8RkI/s1600/P1060476.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nC_Fi_RutCg/U4TkFfESY9I/AAAAAAAALxE/NdHPZvR8RkI/s1600/P1060476.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hh6JWZUghKQ/U4TjztCaG9I/AAAAAAAALuw/LnyDF9qZnP0/s1600/P1060379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hh6JWZUghKQ/U4TjztCaG9I/AAAAAAAALuw/LnyDF9qZnP0/s1600/P1060379.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunscreen time!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B1u1ot8oeGo/U4TkDhi0UFI/AAAAAAAALw8/g2HyPjlyZPU/s1600/P1060445.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B1u1ot8oeGo/U4TkDhi0UFI/AAAAAAAALw8/g2HyPjlyZPU/s1600/P1060445.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bZ4UivckAKk/U4Tj1lFFtII/AAAAAAAALvE/GPdbuQR-gjY/s1600/P1060387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bZ4UivckAKk/U4Tj1lFFtII/AAAAAAAALvE/GPdbuQR-gjY/s1600/P1060387.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SYKnIiHyvwo/U4TkGnDUR4I/AAAAAAAALxU/67rT7ZKDWqE/s1600/P1060482.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SYKnIiHyvwo/U4TkGnDUR4I/AAAAAAAALxU/67rT7ZKDWqE/s1600/P1060482.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We found the canyon, and ate lunch in the shade of the trees at its head. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-a5LlpHgV5zw/U4Tj4ky9wHI/AAAAAAAALvc/yX3fUSY_-pE/s1600/P1060391.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-a5LlpHgV5zw/U4Tj4ky9wHI/AAAAAAAALvc/yX3fUSY_-pE/s1600/P1060391.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
But the southern California drought had impacted the Channel Islands too and the stream was just a dry creek-bed. Bryan and Meira wandered down the canyon a ways while Hannah and I caught our breath and cooled down.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5LmnxDfYSAw/U4Tj50UmY2I/AAAAAAAALvk/NrF4axduy2M/s1600/P1060392.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5LmnxDfYSAw/U4Tj50UmY2I/AAAAAAAALvk/NrF4axduy2M/s1600/P1060392.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wjWvOfskI-U/U4Tj59e2VgI/AAAAAAAALvo/aGDfjOeXc2Y/s1600/P1060395.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wjWvOfskI-U/U4Tj59e2VgI/AAAAAAAALvo/aGDfjOeXc2Y/s1600/P1060395.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qJ5AA-FeOs0/U4Tj67KgSWI/AAAAAAAALv0/3gcSBuIfAZQ/s1600/P1060402.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qJ5AA-FeOs0/U4Tj67KgSWI/AAAAAAAALv0/3gcSBuIfAZQ/s1600/P1060402.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I love the way Meira captured the scale of the rock formations in these 3 shots of her dad.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cBoFJ8SbRiU/U4Tj8jRcXPI/AAAAAAAALv8/ySF9MNDvCos/s1600/P1060410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cBoFJ8SbRiU/U4Tj8jRcXPI/AAAAAAAALv8/ySF9MNDvCos/s1600/P1060410.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nO-bi-FJQ-8/U4Tj8xurD4I/AAAAAAAALwA/2pbI48UZRK8/s1600/P1060411.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nO-bi-FJQ-8/U4Tj8xurD4I/AAAAAAAALwA/2pbI48UZRK8/s1600/P1060411.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-47rSjcJOg-8/U4Tj9q_lsSI/AAAAAAAALwM/R_rlJBHbcNY/s1600/P1060415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-47rSjcJOg-8/U4Tj9q_lsSI/AAAAAAAALwM/R_rlJBHbcNY/s1600/P1060415.JPG" height="158" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
We hiked back, downhill (most of the way) this time. </div>
<div class="p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sq459O2P6mg/U4TkAAScclI/AAAAAAAALwU/3BpPjhF_MRw/s1600/P1060430.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sq459O2P6mg/U4TkAAScclI/AAAAAAAALwU/3BpPjhF_MRw/s1600/P1060430.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wqfYjB9_bEg/U4TkBWH2LsI/AAAAAAAALwk/f2t1FrezU10/s1600/P1060434.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wqfYjB9_bEg/U4TkBWH2LsI/AAAAAAAALwk/f2t1FrezU10/s1600/P1060434.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PH_WaCleMoI/U4TkCzQ7JOI/AAAAAAAALws/pwh3ALpBW28/s1600/P1060439.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PH_WaCleMoI/U4TkCzQ7JOI/AAAAAAAALws/pwh3ALpBW28/s1600/P1060439.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-agRHnXsf8d4/U4TkDBREvgI/AAAAAAAALww/c2IL6ieJ5fg/s1600/P1060440.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-agRHnXsf8d4/U4TkDBREvgI/AAAAAAAALww/c2IL6ieJ5fg/s1600/P1060440.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Kt0YFMPV3HI/U4TkFhPuJdI/AAAAAAAALxI/4RvirXBlZbs/s1600/P1060456.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Kt0YFMPV3HI/U4TkFhPuJdI/AAAAAAAALxI/4RvirXBlZbs/s1600/P1060456.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
Our timing couldn't have been better. By 6:30 pm, we were back on the boat, pulling up our anchor. We rounded the notoriously nasty Point Conception in a lovely pre-dawn calm the next morning,<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tYhXy2nGAoY/U4Tn2m26rtI/AAAAAAAAL1A/BO7T5kR51Ts/s1600/P1060484.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tYhXy2nGAoY/U4Tn2m26rtI/AAAAAAAAL1A/BO7T5kR51Ts/s1600/P1060484.JPG" height="131" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
and made it into Morro Bay just before sunset Thursday night, still reeling from the easy run.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9G3goV_M3Hg/U4Tn3xsqCZI/AAAAAAAAL1I/mrJVDq5l0Wc/s1600/P1060500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9G3goV_M3Hg/U4Tn3xsqCZI/AAAAAAAAL1I/mrJVDq5l0Wc/s1600/P1060500.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
</div>
</div>
Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-78092215200073673652014-05-27T13:13:00.002-07:002014-05-27T17:41:36.310-07:00Intermission—San Diego<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7mD9hf8TOdk/U4TkdJsydzI/AAAAAAAALyE/u-isDOr3VCU/s1600/P1060255.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7mD9hf8TOdk/U4TkdJsydzI/AAAAAAAALyE/u-isDOr3VCU/s1600/P1060255.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
Our time in San Diego was rich, full of friends and fun, a perfect way to ease back into life in the United States. On our first full day in the States, Bryan and I walked to Helen and Glyn's house, friends we met on the way down. They'd just bought a new-to-them car, but hadn't sold their old one so they offered us the use of their extra vehicle for as long as we were in town. Even with our sketchy conception of San Diego geography, we managed to run more errands in one afternoon than we could have tackled in a week or more in Mexico. At one point, a flustered cashier apologized for a momentary delay. “We've just spent 6 months in Mexico,” I reassured her. “Compared to that, this is the <i>height</i> of efficiency!” Everywhere we went, they had what we needed and we made it back to the anchorage just in time to greet Helen and Glyn (and their dear girlies) as they arrived in the bay on their boat, <i>Anthem.</i> </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o5yG-RrPbU4/U4TkZ8ZX2zI/AAAAAAAALxc/VekVgNYrBpc/s1600/P1060236.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o5yG-RrPbU4/U4TkZ8ZX2zI/AAAAAAAALxc/VekVgNYrBpc/s1600/P1060236.JPG" height="218" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Captain Bryan and a pile of mateys</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We spent the evening together, eating Thai food (our first in months!) and celebrating Helen's birthday. We convinced the restaurant to deliver to the beach and Bryan and I grabbed the most convenient dinghy (<i>Anthem's</i>) and rowed in to pick up our dinner. While we waited for it to arrive, a woman approached us on the sand. She'd been trying to reach some friends on another boat in the bay, but they hadn't been responding. We understood her trouble; earlier, we needed Meira to row in and retrieve us and she wasn't near the VHF when we called, so we ended up just hollering over the water until she poked her head up and spotted us. Bryan gladly rowed her across the bay in the dusk. She whispered her thanks as she climbed aboard and he came back to get me, hoping her friends had actually been expecting her and weren't just trying to avoid her phone calls!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e0p6F0RERgw/U4TkagUOivI/AAAAAAAALxo/5zL-kuIZRFs/s1600/P1060240.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e0p6F0RERgw/U4TkagUOivI/AAAAAAAALxo/5zL-kuIZRFs/s1600/P1060240.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
Back on the boat, we pulled out a bottle of wine to share. One of our friends in Bahia Tortugas had given us a bottle of Baja California wine with instructions to open it when we made it to Ensenada. Because I don't really drink alcohol, and Bryan can't drink a whole bottle of wine by himself, we saved it for the next time we were with friends. This was the perfect opportunity! </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P4uamUaVjPA/U4TkagoQHjI/AAAAAAAALxk/UW2yj2l3XvI/s1600/P1060238.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P4uamUaVjPA/U4TkagoQHjI/AAAAAAAALxk/UW2yj2l3XvI/s1600/P1060238.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We had big plans for the next day, but ended up just hanging out on the boat all morning. In the afternoon, the girls from <i>Anthem</i> came over and invited Hannah and Meira to go geo-caching in Point Loma. We sent them off and then rowed over to <i>Anthem</i> for a few minutes of adult conversation with Helen and Glyn. The girls kept in touch via a staticky walkie-talkie and once, even waved from the top of the hill until we spotted them through the binoculars. They rowed themselves back to the boat, exuding confident self-reliance and smiles.</div>
<div class="p1">
In the evening, Bryan and I took the laundry bag up to a nearby laundromat. We alternated between laundromat and coffee shop until our clothes were clean and our devices had soaked up all the internet they could hold.</div>
<div class="p1">
The next morning, we left the weekend-only anchorage and headed over to the long-term cruisers' anchorage where we'd stayed on the way down. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oyEKPSwjCyM/U4Tka1nvrRI/AAAAAAAALxs/t_sM8eSLJLs/s1600/P1060246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oyEKPSwjCyM/U4Tka1nvrRI/AAAAAAAALxs/t_sM8eSLJLs/s1600/P1060246.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We stopped at the police dock to get the required inspection (they just want to make sure you have decent ground tackle for anchoring and aren't leaking oil) and got ourselves settled in before noon. Bryan rowed to shore and walked the several miles to where we'd left our borrowed car, arriving back at the boat just in time to pick the rest of us up for our evening's adventures. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5FNxm104X3c/U4TkdV6_2vI/AAAAAAAALyI/tOGHjRyWmTU/s1600/P1060257.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5FNxm104X3c/U4TkdV6_2vI/AAAAAAAALyI/tOGHjRyWmTU/s1600/P1060257.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We'd met the <i>Rebel Heart </i>family during our time in La Cruz and it didn't take very much time together to fall madly in love with the delightful girls (and their fabulous parents!) Our last day together, we said a hard good-bye. They were heading across the Pacific as we set out to return to Oregon and we didn't have any idea when we would see them again. Unfortunately (and very publicly—<a href="http://www.thisamericanlife.org/radio-archives/episode/525/call-for-help">here's</a> their story if you're interested) illness and a series of unfortunate events brought them back to San Diego, boatless, homeless, but alive. We'd followed their story on the media as we could but were overjoyed to spend an evening together, reassuring ourselves with the healing trifecta of food, hugs, and laughter that, yes, our friends were alright. They were staying with a generous friend, who opened her studio apartment, not just to the 4 of them for a few days, but to the 4 of us for the evening as well. We joyfully bumped buns in the kitchen together and, after homemade pizza and a big green salad, sat down to catch up on US pop culture—the movie <i>Frozen</i>. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The space was small, but boat people get used to very small spaces. We draped ourselves on the couch, the floor, (maybe even a little bit on each other) and thoroughly enjoyed the show.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NCGnMO-Ho0E/U4Tkdi5GrdI/AAAAAAAALyQ/bVYtRMwZ40I/s1600/P1060259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NCGnMO-Ho0E/U4Tkdi5GrdI/AAAAAAAALyQ/bVYtRMwZ40I/s1600/P1060259.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
The next morning felt like La Cruz deja vu, San Diego style. Several times in Mexico, Charlotte and I had combined errands, caring for kids and finding our way around together. This morning, Lyra, the youngest, had a Dr.'s appointment and we jumped at the chance to go along and hang out with Cora, the 3-year-old. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LvQpumk8yTo/U4TkesAZ6YI/AAAAAAAALyc/zcVEmmGD4Kc/s1600/P1060260.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LvQpumk8yTo/U4TkesAZ6YI/AAAAAAAALyc/zcVEmmGD4Kc/s1600/P1060260.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We got up early and rowed/drove/walked/rendezvoused/walked to the downtown office. Business done, the girls and I took Cora to lunch and the library while Charlotte ran an errand with Lyra. All the domestic regularity had me feeling right at home. In the evening, some friends from Oregon met us for dinner and long conversation. We stopped a a donut shop afterward for dessert. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5RLJOYd5h0I/U4TQ9b9znXI/AAAAAAAALtY/yCmARkzA1Pc/s1600/20140506_194749.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5RLJOYd5h0I/U4TQ9b9znXI/AAAAAAAALtY/yCmARkzA1Pc/s1600/20140506_194749.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
By the time we rowed back out to the boat for the night, I'd almost forgotten I lived aboard.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2HGlo2OgakY/U4Tkb2TIUuI/AAAAAAAALx8/LbdyrAe73LU/s1600/P1060253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2HGlo2OgakY/U4Tkb2TIUuI/AAAAAAAALx8/LbdyrAe73LU/s1600/P1060253.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
The next day did nothing to dissuade me from my delusion. Because of limited parking hours, we had to be away from the boat all day. We spent the morning at a coffee shop (the cheapest way to rent a living room!), </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ktTMta5f1AQ/U4TkgLA3fcI/AAAAAAAALyk/Z_bsLS7RiDE/s1600/P1060266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ktTMta5f1AQ/U4TkgLA3fcI/AAAAAAAALyk/Z_bsLS7RiDE/s1600/P1060266.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
ran some errands in the afternoon, and ended up at yet another library, this one with a built-in ship and a periscope in the kids' section. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aNejv9B8Hhw/U4TkgnRiCwI/AAAAAAAALyo/DogsoV2036g/s1600/P1060270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aNejv9B8Hhw/U4TkgnRiCwI/AAAAAAAALyo/DogsoV2036g/s1600/P1060270.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BQGFk65eyt4/U4Tkhr3m2_I/AAAAAAAALy0/S2MERFDeyiU/s1600/P1060279.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BQGFk65eyt4/U4Tkhr3m2_I/AAAAAAAALy0/S2MERFDeyiU/s1600/P1060279.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We stopped at a grocery store on the way back and picked up fresh food for a delicious home-cooked meal. Fresh produce was available in Mexico, but variety was hard to come by. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pUXFQ6EaD8Y/U4TkiiAhDhI/AAAAAAAALy8/p4uF8K-H29Q/s1600/P1060280.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pUXFQ6EaD8Y/U4TkiiAhDhI/AAAAAAAALy8/p4uF8K-H29Q/s1600/P1060280.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
The next day, Bryan took me to shore where we met Helen. She's a world-renown glaciologist and needed to check out a retreat venue for a glaciology gathering she will be hosting this fall. I got to go along for the ride, up into the mountains outside of San Diego, around the beautiful campground, and back to the lovely little town of Julian for a delicious lunch/girl-time. </div>
<div class="p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b-cZuvwjN8E/U4TQ4n6W6VI/AAAAAAAALtQ/1QYt-FPNLXk/s1600/20140508_132216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b-cZuvwjN8E/U4TQ4n6W6VI/AAAAAAAALtQ/1QYt-FPNLXk/s1600/20140508_132216.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4UQCunhOzow/U4TQt9CQcWI/AAAAAAAALtI/WKwgEakvsRU/s1600/20140508_132832.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4UQCunhOzow/U4TQt9CQcWI/AAAAAAAALtI/WKwgEakvsRU/s1600/20140508_132832.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We picked up a couple of the apple pies the town is famous for and drove back to her house for an evening of typical school-night craziness—dinner and pie slipped between kid pick-ups and drop-offs (theirs) and laundry-switching (ours).</div>
<div class="p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s9zgLZyPgkk/U4TkjjjDqdI/AAAAAAAALzM/V3QrPFBHagI/s1600/P1060284.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s9zgLZyPgkk/U4TkjjjDqdI/AAAAAAAALzM/V3QrPFBHagI/s1600/P1060284.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
Helen invited us to come visit her where she works at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography, so Friday, we drove up to the beautiful campus and sat in on an ice science class. </div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SOTidTVoYWk/U4TkkQPDBRI/AAAAAAAALzU/rC5gTQg8Y8Q/s1600/P1060286.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SOTidTVoYWk/U4TkkQPDBRI/AAAAAAAALzU/rC5gTQg8Y8Q/s1600/P1060286.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VhGphWigebo/U4TkkjaVVRI/AAAAAAAALzY/jKRLquPsjp4/s1600/P1060287.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VhGphWigebo/U4TkkjaVVRI/AAAAAAAALzY/jKRLquPsjp4/s1600/P1060287.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We kept Helen and her TA for quite a while afterward, bombarding them with questions about their work and the latest research. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EwyQypLHJG0/U4Tkle8aB9I/AAAAAAAALzk/ZOrKE_CV2Xc/s1600/P1060294.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EwyQypLHJG0/U4Tkle8aB9I/AAAAAAAALzk/ZOrKE_CV2Xc/s1600/P1060294.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
Meira took over the TA's visual aid and figured out new ways to use it to illustrate the concepts she'd just learned. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OGC8GpXaiBU/U4TkmNb2TVI/AAAAAAAALzs/s-uk6zoYEjk/s1600/P1060298.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OGC8GpXaiBU/U4TkmNb2TVI/AAAAAAAALzs/s-uk6zoYEjk/s1600/P1060298.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
Over the weekend, we spent quite a bit more time with Charlotte and Eric, Cora and Lyra. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hwe2YWGzE90/U4TkmMReFVI/AAAAAAAALzw/aCqQYzTMHKc/s1600/P1060319.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hwe2YWGzE90/U4TkmMReFVI/AAAAAAAALzw/aCqQYzTMHKc/s1600/P1060319.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LwBn_n0YYmw/U4Tkmkm-nMI/AAAAAAAALz4/lRAYRU7dFzU/s1600/P1060321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LwBn_n0YYmw/U4Tkmkm-nMI/AAAAAAAALz4/lRAYRU7dFzU/s1600/P1060321.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
They'd moved out of the studio apartment and, thanks to a friend's generosity, were staying in a beautiful beach house a little north of San Diego. </div>
<div class="p1" style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SpooP-by4X8/U4TQMgwbVfI/AAAAAAAALs4/TEnPqBS-A-w/s1600/20140510_093215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SpooP-by4X8/U4TQMgwbVfI/AAAAAAAALs4/TEnPqBS-A-w/s1600/20140510_093215.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
We relished the chance to spend more time together, but by Sunday night, it was time to turn our minds toward moving on.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Nkb4thf-5DI/U4TkoSn1eZI/AAAAAAAAL0E/vxicSa-iI60/s1600/P1060325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Nkb4thf-5DI/U4TkoSn1eZI/AAAAAAAAL0E/vxicSa-iI60/s1600/P1060325.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<br />
<div class="p1">
We piled the dinghy full of groceries </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RhQvosZsLsE/U4TkqqRE_2I/AAAAAAAAL0M/Qj7p9Sl3Nm0/s1600/P1060327.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RhQvosZsLsE/U4TkqqRE_2I/AAAAAAAAL0M/Qj7p9Sl3Nm0/s1600/P1060327.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7-RRaU0r-_k/U4TkrJDunlI/AAAAAAAAL0U/OJGMpNshTeI/s1600/P1060332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7-RRaU0r-_k/U4TkrJDunlI/AAAAAAAAL0U/OJGMpNshTeI/s1600/P1060332.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
and spent Monday morning putting them away and getting ready to take off. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9jsjvtalyHg/U4TkrbwKnTI/AAAAAAAAL0Y/2_Zxx2N9udM/s1600/P1060335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9jsjvtalyHg/U4TkrbwKnTI/AAAAAAAAL0Y/2_Zxx2N9udM/s1600/P1060335.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An odd sight...two boats towing a dock while a man walked up and down the dock, working.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
The best timing for our run up the coast had us leaving in the afternoon or early evening. We weren't sure if the afternoon winds would be high enough to keep us in port, but we decided to stick our nose out of the bay to see. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I8wxtWnlmMA/U4Tkspd82PI/AAAAAAAAL0k/uKbPx-cn2p8/s1600/P1060339.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I8wxtWnlmMA/U4Tkspd82PI/AAAAAAAAL0k/uKbPx-cn2p8/s1600/P1060339.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
If the weather was too bad to sail, we could always anchor behind the jetty at the entrance and wait until night to take off. We stopped for fuel on the way out, had one last surprise visit with Glyn, who just happened to be there (as lovely as it is...when you start to run into friends at the gas station, it might just be time to pull up anchor and move on:-) and let the perfect afternoon breeze blow us out of the bay and north toward home.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V1zl8oEFl5E/U4TkuoMlByI/AAAAAAAAL0s/PlOPtgKHbKE/s1600/P1060341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V1zl8oEFl5E/U4TkuoMlByI/AAAAAAAAL0s/PlOPtgKHbKE/s1600/P1060341.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-7192775072063618102014-05-18T01:25:00.000-07:002014-05-18T01:54:01.871-07:00Leg 6—Ensenada to San Diego<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rFFt423QtSc/U3boq1aRsUI/AAAAAAAAKKE/hCPliYUbZyQ/s1600/15-P1060194.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rFFt423QtSc/U3boq1aRsUI/AAAAAAAAKKE/hCPliYUbZyQ/s1600/15-P1060194.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></div>
April 27-May 2<br>
We spent 5 days in Ensenada. When we came in, we anticipated a quick turnaround for the short hop to San Diego. But a peek at the weather quickly changed our minds. Unseasonable Santa Ana winds were predicted for the next few days, so we settled in for a little longer stay. The first evening there was really chilly. We chalked it up to being acclimated to the warmth of tropical Mexico until I checked the weather from back home. The high for the day was only 3 degrees warmer in Lafayette, OR than Ensenada, MX. And we were out on the water in the cold wind. We pulled out our electric heater, thankful to be hooked into shore power.<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q_Xosm15rKs/U3bohI8fGPI/AAAAAAAAKIg/SNkrXsoLtdo/s1600/02-P1060143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q_Xosm15rKs/U3bohI8fGPI/AAAAAAAAKIg/SNkrXsoLtdo/s1600/02-P1060143.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></div>
The next day, we walked up through the marina boatyard to the town. We spent most of the day in a coffee shop, catching up on correspondence, business, and the state of the internet. It's always funny to sit around, each of us with a screen in front of our faces, and wonder if anyone is secretly labeling us as <i>those people, </i>the epitome of a family separated by the evils of technology. They don't know we spend almost every waking moment together in a life so unified, "What did you do today?" has almost completely disappeared from our vocabulary.<br>
That night, after dinner, Bryan and I walked laps on the wharf, talking over our plans for our return. We'd almost made it back to the States, and the end of the trip was finally seeming real. For years, we've put much of our disposable income and energy toward making these precious months a reality, but we both have lots of dreams and goals for the next stage of our life and it was exciting to talk through our priorities and consider how we might transition well back/forward. Finally, chilled to the bone, we headed back to the boat and the girls, who'd been more than content to monopolize the electronic equipment while we were gone.<br>
Before I even opened my eyes the next morning, I knew the Santa Anas had arrived. The temperature had jumped at least 20 degrees overnight and the brisk offshore winds made us glad to be safe in a harbor. I walked up to the marina office to check in since they hadn't been in all weekend. I'd e-mailed the harbormaster before we got in on Saturday for our slip assignment, but they hadn't required any payment or paperwork until Monday morning. What a departure from our recent marina experiences where they require copies of all our passports, boat documentation, and pre-payment before giving us keys to the gates...the gates which are card-locked both coming and going. If the dock ever catches on fire, you'd better have your key with you or know how to swim!<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Uk5zgjkoPrM/U3bog3_XBXI/AAAAAAAAKIc/Zk94vrzZfwU/s1600/01-P1060141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Uk5zgjkoPrM/U3bog3_XBXI/AAAAAAAAKIc/Zk94vrzZfwU/s1600/01-P1060141.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></div>
<br>
The Harbormaster pulled together a packet of exit paperwork for me and gave me instructions on how to clear out of the country with Immigration and the Port Captain. They offered me a phone with free US service to make a couple of important business calls and I took care of our latest banking issue. After months of inactivity on one of our accounts, we shocked our bank by making a purchase in Cabo and they stopped authorizing our automatic payment to InReach, our tracking and emergency satellite communication device. We'd spent several weeks on Baja trying to solve the problem by e-mail, repeatedly clicking "Yes, please authorize this payment!" on the fraud alerts that kept rolling in. I even borrowed a friend's phone in Turtle Bay and curled up in the V-berth to wait on hold until I was assured the problem was solved. But it wasn't. More fraud alerts, more denied payments. A final notice from the long-suffering InReach corporation. At one point, we sent our parents a quick note on the device warning them that our tracking might cut out, but that we were just fine...not to worry. As if that would stop them:-)<br>
Anyway, I got that issue and a few others worked out and showed up back on the boat high from my morning of productivity. Bryan had gathered some laundry and offered to take me out on a date to celebrate. Since "date night" at home usually refers to the 5 minutes it takes to push the garbage bins up our driveway to the top of the hill, laundry sounded like a perfect way to spend some time together.<br>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X4--fzaT3BU/U3boiTjQkLI/AAAAAAAAKIk/AhnBAgHg4Ds/s1600/03-P1060146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X4--fzaT3BU/U3boiTjQkLI/AAAAAAAAKIk/AhnBAgHg4Ds/s1600/03-P1060146.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We didn't get a photo of the huge boat behind this impressive door. We just liked the folding door!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br>
We walked through town with our enormous bag and finally located the place, a colorful, 3-story laundromat. In most of Mexico, you drop your laundry off and pick it up later, washed, dried, folded. Here, so close to the states, we didn't know the system. The machines seemed coin-operated, but the attendant helped us get our laundry going, offered to switch it for us, and had it waiting, folded when we came back a few hours later. All for about $3 a load. I won't miss carrying my laundry up the docks and all over town but fresh, folded laundry? Yeah, that's pretty nice.<br>
A little done with tacos for the moment, we found a little Italian cafe and took care of my months-long lasagna craving.<br>
In the late afternoon, Bryan decided to tackle our contaminated freshwater tank. The tank itself is made of plastic, but completely fiberglassed into a hollow spot in the keel. It can't be removed, and access requires pulling up our cabin floor. You might think living in a space the size of a large bathroom is difficult. Just wait until the room has no floor. The girls and I just tried to stay out of the way and keep errant tools or knitting implements from falling into the bilge while Bryan worked to empty, fill, wash, repeat.<br>
Partway through the process, he got suspiciously quiet. It wasn't a fun job by any means, so I set aside my momentary red-flag feeling as ridiculous. But soon the look on his face intensified my worry. And his next words, "At least there's a haul-out handy." did nothing to quell my rising anxiety. He'd noticed a stream of water running down the outside of the water tank. Even after he pumped the tank dry (a long, long process with only a foot pump) water still bubbled. We'd started to hope we had a hole in the freshwater tank, a significant problem in itself, but far less dire than the possibility of a spontaneous crack in our hull. As unlikely as that scenario was—the boat had been through much worse than our rough ride to Ensenada and we hadn't hit anything at sea or in the harbor—we couldn't take it lightly. I sat on the settee, my heart pounding a bit, as I thought through the ramifications. The stream of water was a small one; our pump could definitely keep up all night. And we were sure the boatyard would get us out of the water onto dry land as soon as possible. I decided not to get ahead of myself and waited to worry about all the trouble and the expense until we were sure we knew what was up. Bryan fiddled around a bit more, this time filling the tank only halfway, far below the suspicious "hole". And water still dribbled out.<br>
Finally, he headed upstream, into the engine compartment, where the normal drip around our propeller shaft had increased to a steady stream after our many hours of motoring. He tightened down the packing gland to stem the flow and then checked the "hole" again. It turned out that every time we put water in the tank, it weighed down the boat just enough to shift the puddle from under the packing gland, down some conduit in the fiberglass, and down the side of the tank, making it look like the water was coming from the tank or the hull. After he tightened everything down, the compartment drained and water stopped running from our mysterious "hole." Whew! He cleaned the tank, swabbing out the bottom with a rag on a stick ("I think last time I used a shop vac for this part," he said.) and put the whole thing back together while I sat on the settee and caught my breath. There's always something.<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aDxDYdeoOQs/U3bolInn_AI/AAAAAAAAKJA/bkVVgPTeRCs/s1600/07-P1060156.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aDxDYdeoOQs/U3bolInn_AI/AAAAAAAAKJA/bkVVgPTeRCs/s1600/07-P1060156.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></div>
<br>
The next couple of days were delightfully boring. We hung out a did a little bit of shopping. I bought a pair of sandals identical to those I'd bought our first time in Ensenada, which I'd long since walked into shreds. The girls poked through the shops and we each bought one last churro. We kept careful track of our dwindling peso stash, trying to somehow make it last but spend it all.<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SvoyCdDga90/U3boosYm0wI/AAAAAAAAKJk/qTOE__zpQs8/s1600/11-P1060213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SvoyCdDga90/U3boosYm0wI/AAAAAAAAKJk/qTOE__zpQs8/s1600/11-P1060213.JPG" height="400" width="300"></a></div>
<br>
Warned that the US might not allow in raw eggs, I took the precaution of hard-boiling all our remaining eggs. Meira didn't want anyone mistaking them for raw.<br>
Wednesday, we checked out of the country. We visited the same office where we'd checked in and this time, comfortably navigated the multiple windows and regulations. We paid our 260 pesos (about $20 USD) and returned in an hour for our official Zarpe, a beautiful certificate that informed the precisely zero officials who will ever ask to see it that we legally left Mexico.<br>
Now that we had checked out, we were on a 48-hour clock to skedaddle. (We'd been subtly reassured, "They won't come after you if the weather is bad and you're here a little longer, don't worry.") On our way back from the Immigration office, Bryan spotted a cinema playing an English version of Spiderman 2. After a quick dinner at our first Mexican taco stand, he rounded up a copy of the first Spiderman, got it working on the still-broken computer, and surprised the girls with evening entertainment and the plan to see the other one the next day.<br>
In the morning, he and I snagged a dock cart and walked the 5 or 6 blocks down the wharf to the nearest gas station. We filled our tanks and lugged them back with many offerings of thanks to the inventor of the wheel.<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u0XYmN95P94/U3bol5jxcpI/AAAAAAAAKJM/GTk8WMp5Ua8/s1600/08-P1060153.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u0XYmN95P94/U3bol5jxcpI/AAAAAAAAKJM/GTk8WMp5Ua8/s1600/08-P1060153.JPG" height="400" width="300"></a></div>
<br>
We coerced ourselves into a little boat cleaning and whipped it back into a seaworthy state in time to escape the heat in the cool theater. We walked over, bought our tickets and waited. A few minutes before the show started we headed in to find our seats. The ticket taker found a way to convey that the start time was later than we'd expected and the last movie hadn't finished yet. We waited some more.<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N86xFg2vwu8/U3bojVX85WI/AAAAAAAAKI0/dkZhCGLtko0/s1600/06-P1060163.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N86xFg2vwu8/U3bojVX85WI/AAAAAAAAKI0/dkZhCGLtko0/s1600/06-P1060163.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></div>
<br>
And then bought popcorn and drinks all around. Movie prices in Mexico are shockingly low. Like $3.50 or $4.00 a person. So we easily justified buying the quite reasonably priced snacks. We found our places, resisted eating all the popcorn before the previews were over, watched the first scenes of the movie, and...it wasn't Spiderman. We waited a few minutes, confused, but it persisted in not being Spiderman. Finally, Bryan stepped out and got some help. We'd been sold the wrong tickets but due to the language barrier, nobody had noticed. Spiderman had started already (the time on our tickets was later than we'd expected because, you guessed it, they were for the wrong movie.) They printed out replacement tickets for the early evening showing, which started about the time we'd hoped to be leaving the country. And we walked out into the heat we'd tried to escape and ate our theater popcorn in the park instead, all feeling oddly deflated by the whole fiasco.<br>
We walked the 10 blocks or so to the grocery store and stocked up one last time on all our Mexican favorites--cookies we love, boxed juices, and shelf-stable milk and cream. On our way back to the boat, we automatically turned down the walking street vendors. "No, gracias. No, gracias....wait a second!" The tamale vendor turned around as we realized our mistake and squealed to a stop. Why were we saying "no" to a quick, easy, delicious meal for our night at sea? Strangely enough, I had not eaten a tamale our entire time in Mexico. I don't know if they're not a tradition in the areas we visited or if we just didn't run across them. We pulled out some of our few remaining pesos and, when he listed his prices in gringo-friendly US dollars, I fished out a $5 bill that had been riding uselessly around in my wallet for almost 6 months. We each got a chicken tamale for dinner and picked up pineapple and corn dessert tamales too, why not?<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-feZFeoj-Z70/U3boihnOZII/AAAAAAAAKIo/EByltXJEm1k/s1600/05-P1060165.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-feZFeoj-Z70/U3boihnOZII/AAAAAAAAKIo/EByltXJEm1k/s1600/05-P1060165.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></div>
<br>
We dumped our food on the boat and hurried back to the theater again. This time, all went as planned. We counted out the last of our change for a couple more drinks and thoroughly enjoyed the movie, though the oddity of spending our last hours in Mexico in such a non-traditional way was not lost on us.<br>
It felt immensely strange to walk out of the theater, walk a few blocks to the boat, drop our key in the drop box and just...leave the country. In a moment of reflection earlier in the day, I'd recognized the truth that many people lose their lives each year trying to get into the US and, though most of the Mexicans we met wouldn't dream of giving up their lives for mine, the privilege of free travel afforded me by my US passport should not be taken for granted.<br>
We motored away from the dock, through the harbor lights, and across the breakwater. 8 tamales and 15 short, easy hours later, we pulled into the San Diego Harbor.<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8Ae8nnNRhe0/U3boqXmm1vI/AAAAAAAAKJ4/0F_GWonOcxU/s1600/14-P1060191.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8Ae8nnNRhe0/U3boqXmm1vI/AAAAAAAAKJ4/0F_GWonOcxU/s1600/14-P1060191.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vi1S3MKIpuc/U3bop261mJI/AAAAAAAAKJ0/ZyjiQghEWL8/s1600/13-P1060189.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vi1S3MKIpuc/U3bop261mJI/AAAAAAAAKJ0/ZyjiQghEWL8/s1600/13-P1060189.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></div>
<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3Cy-QWJ5iL4/U3bopDbXwkI/AAAAAAAAKJw/6eqV2u8bZoA/s1600/12-P1060186.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3Cy-QWJ5iL4/U3bopDbXwkI/AAAAAAAAKJw/6eqV2u8bZoA/s1600/12-P1060186.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></div>
<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rJFZxxj_aQA/U3boouHdgXI/AAAAAAAAKJo/tYrZ_6YmpWU/s1600/10-P1060182.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rJFZxxj_aQA/U3boouHdgXI/AAAAAAAAKJo/tYrZ_6YmpWU/s1600/10-P1060182.JPG" height="400" width="300"></a></div>
<br>
We tied up to the customs dock, waited for our inspection (they didn't even set foot on the boat), and took down our tattered Mexican flag (why is it that old flags are always "tattered"?)<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NwQnQ0-9SIM/U3bosolTw2I/AAAAAAAAKKU/7rDpJIRmvHE/s1600/16-P1060207.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NwQnQ0-9SIM/U3bosolTw2I/AAAAAAAAKKU/7rDpJIRmvHE/s1600/16-P1060207.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></div>
<br>
In the stiff afternoon breeze, we moved to the sheltered La Playa anchorage and dropped the hook.<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KZ2DoA7lSD8/U3bovFS_0SI/AAAAAAAAKKs/ATAFjBE73oI/s1600/20-P1060229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KZ2DoA7lSD8/U3bovFS_0SI/AAAAAAAAKKs/ATAFjBE73oI/s1600/20-P1060229.JPG" height="131" width="400"></a></div>
<br>
A few minutes later, Bryan was off helping another sailor on a mission to rescue a houdini hound who'd gotten tired of waiting for his owner and decided to make a swim for it. The dog drifted past our boat in the current and looked pretty beat, but when the guys approached, he wouldn't let them get close.<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ND-Ku-yNdxY/U3bouJ17VcI/AAAAAAAAKKc/tCGjI8c4ZMQ/s1600/18-P1060223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ND-Ku-yNdxY/U3bouJ17VcI/AAAAAAAAKKc/tCGjI8c4ZMQ/s1600/18-P1060223.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></div>
<br>
The girls and I stayed on the boat and yelled across to the owner's boat until he saw the situation and hopped in his own dinghy to retrieve his dog.<br>
That evening, by popular demand, we walked the mile and a half to the closest Smashburger, a local chain we'd discovered back in November. We struggled to translate the dollars into pesos, the currency we'd become most familiar with, and fought the reflex to thank the servers in Spanish.<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1eg6BuexIV0/U3boxSdD5kI/AAAAAAAAKLE/I5Dbp2i9bOY/s1600/22-P1060235.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1eg6BuexIV0/U3boxSdD5kI/AAAAAAAAKLE/I5Dbp2i9bOY/s1600/22-P1060235.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></div>
<br>
After burgers and shakes (and a really good, dark beer for Bryan) we walked back to the boat. Meira said, "Now I finally feel like we're really back in the States!" We really are, dear.<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b8JKf6qhVoU/U3bonmX4jjI/AAAAAAAAKJc/uOw2QHkP2b4/s1600/09-P1060168.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b8JKf6qhVoU/U3bonmX4jjI/AAAAAAAAKJc/uOw2QHkP2b4/s1600/09-P1060168.JPG" height="300" width="400"></a></div>
<br>
<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br></div>
Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-11758796011406320202014-05-16T16:28:00.002-07:002014-05-16T21:33:19.621-07:00Leg 5—Bahia Tortugas to Ensenada<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A3TsvUmKVgY/U3Z_PmHtfRI/AAAAAAAAKGQ/qdHgCiY4yEI/s1600/07-P1060091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A3TsvUmKVgY/U3Z_PmHtfRI/AAAAAAAAKGQ/qdHgCiY4yEI/s1600/07-P1060091.JPG" height="190" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
April 20-May 1</div>
<br />
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1">My journal from April 20 says, "In some ways, this is our toughest leg. Good thing we're feeling tough." </span>We left Turtle Bay late, just before midnight. Bryan motored us out of the bay and took his normal night watch. By morning, we were off Punta Eugenia, cutting between Isla Cedros and the Baja peninsula. We'd heard it could be rough in there, as the wind and currents funneled through the tight passage, but we had smooth sailing until we hit the northern end of the island. As we left the protection of the island to our west, the wind and currents picked up significantly. It wasn't too uncomfortable, but we spent the afternoon and early evening trying to resist looking at our speed-over-ground. The low numbers, 2.4 kts...2.1 kts...1.7 kts, were too depressing to consider—about half of our typical speed. A local fisherman had recommended Isla San Geronimo as a great stopover spot and we'd planned to pull in there Tuesday night. It was already clear, we wouldn't make it. The weather was predicted to worsen by Tuesday afternoon and, at this rate, we might not even make our 2<span class="s2"><sup>nd</sup></span> choice port, the remote bay of San Carlos, before the winds picked up even more. During the night, the daytime winds died down and we made a little better time. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a1vS6IguOGQ/U3Z_Syz0n6I/AAAAAAAAKGk/xilnrk3iR1M/s1600/1-P1050991.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a1vS6IguOGQ/U3Z_Syz0n6I/AAAAAAAAKGk/xilnrk3iR1M/s1600/1-P1050991.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prepping to make a snack...oven mitts and vice grips serve dual purposes at sea</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="p1">
Tuesday was a long, long day of fighting our way toward San Carlos.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HyoH9siJ4rk/U3Z_J9YFTKI/AAAAAAAAKFo/NhvPN1NLCpQ/s1600/01-P1060008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HyoH9siJ4rk/U3Z_J9YFTKI/AAAAAAAAKFo/NhvPN1NLCpQ/s1600/01-P1060008.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="p1">
Yes, I straightened the horizon (No, we didn't straighten up the cockpit)</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="p1">
As the afternoon wore on and the headwind increased, I wedged myself into a safe spot and did the calculations. X rate, Y hours...would we make it in by night? The sea got pretty bumpy and our speed decreased until we started to wonder if we'd somehow fouled our prop. It would have been really difficult, even dangerous, to dive on it in these conditions and it didn't seem to be hurting the engine or the shaft so we just pushed on. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_7ghpL5Iuvg/U3Z_LyYEqVI/AAAAAAAAKF0/wFP_sF9TCUE/s1600/04-P1060030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_7ghpL5Iuvg/U3Z_LyYEqVI/AAAAAAAAKF0/wFP_sF9TCUE/s1600/04-P1060030.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="p1">
The last 20 miles, normally an easy 4 hour run, took us 10 hours. But even at that slow rate, crew morale didn't take too much of a hit. We'd expected much of the bash back to be like this and felt pretty lucky that we hadn't had these conditions for more of our travel time up Baja.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hBK0pJbLQC8/U3Z_JpfOKoI/AAAAAAAAKFY/LmNRd90zODI/s1600/02-P1060029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hBK0pJbLQC8/U3Z_JpfOKoI/AAAAAAAAKFY/LmNRd90zODI/s1600/02-P1060029.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="p1">
About an hour before sunset, we finally neared the bay. Our charts listed it as safe, but windy—more beloved by windsurfers than sailors in need of a rest. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7fVXH0dsKf8/U3Z_O0j_bdI/AAAAAAAAKGE/iZ2VJG1dzhw/s1600/06-P1060035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7fVXH0dsKf8/U3Z_O0j_bdI/AAAAAAAAKGE/iZ2VJG1dzhw/s1600/06-P1060035.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
It didn't seem like we would be able to find shelter from the wind and sea, but as we edged north into the bay, and prepared to drop the anchor, sure enough, the sea settled down a bit. We got the anchor set, deployed the flopper-stopper, and went below for a surprisingly comfortable night. The wind blew all night and all the next day. We turned on music to mask the whine in the rigging and did a few boat chores. I squelched around on the soggy carpet vowing to buy rubber-soled slippers in the next port (in rough conditions, a little water always seems to find its way inside and wet socks? <i>Shudder!</i>) Bryan cleaned the sand out of our cockpit drains, only spawning one or two more projects in the process, and dug out the last of the precious Mexican coffee. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="p1">
In the afternoon, while he got some rest, the girls and I watched several hours of classic comedy DVDs, a gift from our friends on another sailboat in Turtle Bay. Our weather reports from Turtle Bay were shot; the system we'd expected Wednesday had come in on Tuesday, so we couldn't trust the rest of the report to be helpful at all. We couldn't pull in any weather reports in San Carlos, but the barometer and cloud formations seemed to indicate that we were at the tail end of a little blow. Sure enough, Wednesday evening, the wind eased. We waited an hour or so to see if it would pick back up and then made the collective call to attempt the jump up to San Quintin. If the weather kicked back up, we could take shelter at San Geronimo, 20 miles away, or Punta Baja, another 10 miles or so north. And worst case, we could always turn and run downwind back to San Carlos. We dropped a GPS point on our e-charts in case we needed to find our way back in the dark and then hauled up the anchor. We braced ourselves to have to stop short of San Quintin, trying to count every small jump as a victory. But we had smooth motoring through the night and made it all the way to San Quintin on Thursday afternoon.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P2j_yDL11Hk/U3Z_OGXiA-I/AAAAAAAAKF8/qVbTnHgEN1A/s1600/05-P1060033.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P2j_yDL11Hk/U3Z_OGXiA-I/AAAAAAAAKF8/qVbTnHgEN1A/s1600/05-P1060033.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p2">
I'd been trying not to worry about fuel for several days now. Because of the extra hours at sea between Bahia Tortugas and San Carlos, we didn't have enough gas to get to Ensenada. Now we couldn't ignore the problem anymore. Our guide books indicated that, in an emergency, we could get a ride across the shallow lagoon entrance and into town on a panga. Or we could move to the other side of the bay, row in through the high surf, and beg for help from the hotel. Friday morning, we tried raising help on the radio and stood in the cockpit waving colorful pillowcases in an attempt to flag down a fisherman. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_THLzwtNaL4/U3Z_Q7xIaXI/AAAAAAAAKGU/_-a6pxc8Sq4/s1600/08-P1060093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_THLzwtNaL4/U3Z_Q7xIaXI/AAAAAAAAKGU/_-a6pxc8Sq4/s1600/08-P1060093.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
By mid-morning, Bryan made the call to take the surf-landing/beg-for-help route. We drove the few miles across the wide bay and anchored as close to the surf as we dared. He and I took a few minutes getting ready. We put dry clothes into waterproof bags and tied the backpacks, the fuel jugs, the oars, and our shoes to the gunwales of the dinghy in case we flipped trying to land. We took the handheld VHF but left the girls behind. It would be hard enough getting through the surf intact with the 2 of us aboard, but Bryan thought my language skills were worth the extra weight.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="p1">
He rowed toward shore and I marveled at our calm. How far we'd come since our first time in this bay! We watched the swells, counted the sets, and shifted our weight to keep us from getting hit by an early-breaking wave. Bryan picked a small wave and rowed to match its speed, surfing down the front edge into the golden sand. Perfect!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0JqY_6L7jp0/U3Z_SCrrYZI/AAAAAAAAKGc/GOO4uf5M_Qg/s1600/09-P1060096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0JqY_6L7jp0/U3Z_SCrrYZI/AAAAAAAAKGc/GOO4uf5M_Qg/s1600/09-P1060096.JPG" height="151" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="p1">
Exhilarated from our landing, we stripped off our lifejackets and dragged the dinghy up the beach. We walked in the sun up the dunes to the hotel and hid in a back stairwell while I took off my thermals. Even just a few feet inland, it was significantly warmer than out on the boat. A quick stop at the reception desk yielded a ride with a bored chef. He didn't have to start dinner until 3 pm and was happy to drive us the 5 miles into town. We tossed the jugs in the bed of the truck and climbed in after them.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VnMYyp3HmHw/U3Z_X15HdaI/AAAAAAAAKHA/AQ68t4c5VeI/s1600/12-P1060102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VnMYyp3HmHw/U3Z_X15HdaI/AAAAAAAAKHA/AQ68t4c5VeI/s1600/12-P1060102.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
The climate was noticeably different than that in dry Bahia Tortugas and greenhouses lined the highway. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-slhqs3Mdxh4/U3Z_XI_DuII/AAAAAAAAKG4/GPwcKz0mPY4/s1600/11-P1060100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-slhqs3Mdxh4/U3Z_XI_DuII/AAAAAAAAKG4/GPwcKz0mPY4/s1600/11-P1060100.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="p1">
While Bryan got gas, I chatted with the chef. “Are you sure you don't want anything at the mini-mart?” he asked. We picked up cold sodas for the crew and offered to buy him one too. He turned us down and we headed back to the hotel. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2pH8LVa5fdg/U3Z_UHFetPI/AAAAAAAAKGs/ydSeXtzyqKM/s1600/10-P1060098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2pH8LVa5fdg/U3Z_UHFetPI/AAAAAAAAKGs/ydSeXtzyqKM/s1600/10-P1060098.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
He pulled up as close as he could to the beach access and seemed surprised at the tip we pressed on him.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="p1">
On the walk back, Bryan leap-frogged the tanks down to the dinghy to give his arms a break. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kr1KLcsqWA0/U3Z_ZbswsMI/AAAAAAAAKHM/_LNsaNNHTC4/s1600/14-P1060106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kr1KLcsqWA0/U3Z_ZbswsMI/AAAAAAAAKHM/_LNsaNNHTC4/s1600/14-P1060106.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fJOQmI10aA0/U3Z_YFM16YI/AAAAAAAAKHE/A0V7mGkRIpI/s1600/13-P1060105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fJOQmI10aA0/U3Z_YFM16YI/AAAAAAAAKHE/A0V7mGkRIpI/s1600/13-P1060105.JPG" height="187" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span class="s1">We repeated our prep work, tying the now-full tanks and our bag and oars into the dinghy.</span> We pulled up our pants and waded down the shallow beach up to our knees. The first few waves were definitely too big, but we'd seen a small set while we were getting ready and knew to be patient. We waited until the waves got scary-big and then diminished. As the first of the smaller set approached, we hopped in the dinghy and started rowing out. But the sea is anything but predictable and a late-breaking wave curved high above our heads and collapsed over us, soaking us and swamping the dinghy. We jumped out in the waist-deep water and sloshed back into shore, tossing our gear back into the dinghy, though it was full to the brim and barely afloat. I'd forgotten to tie on my sunglasses this time, and one of the oars escaped its tether. But I snagged the oar before it could float away and found my sunglasses in the bottom of the dinghy.</div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We had just started the long process of bailing with our hands (in retrospect, it would have been easier to dump out the water while the boat was still floating. Oh, well!) when we noticed a group of divers getting ready to launch their panga through the surf. One approached. “<span class="s2">¿</span>Hablas Espa<span class="s3"><b>ñ</b></span>ol?” We worked out a plan for them to drive me and all our sopping gear through the breakers and let Bryan and <i>Rover </i>handle the surf on their own. Before I knew it, they'd bailed out the dinghy, tossed me in their boat and delivered me, dripping wet, into <i>LiLo's </i>cockpit. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xBGzarjCKF8/U3Z_bUCfqmI/AAAAAAAAKHU/myB1mbcO9VY/s1600/15-P1060108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xBGzarjCKF8/U3Z_bUCfqmI/AAAAAAAAKHU/myB1mbcO9VY/s1600/15-P1060108.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
I looked back to check on Bryan, but he was already through the breakers and rapidly approaching. We would have been just fine the second time, but it was much easier without all the extra weight (I'm aware of the joke potential here already, thanks.)</div>
<div class="p1">
Back on the boat, I waited for our helpers to motor away before stripping off my wet clothes in the cockpit and going below to pull on dry ones. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="p1">
Bryan, who'd been watching the weather with a little more optimism than I had, arrived with undampened energy. “If we leave <i>right now</i>, we might pull into Ensenada before the weather is completely impossible. If we wait, we won't be able to leave again for 3 days or so.” We took a poll of the crew and all agreed it was worth a few hours of discomfort to be done with the Baja Bash a few days early. Having learned a thing or two about division-of-labor on our trip south, I spoke my bargain aloud. “I'm happy to go right now and promise that, when it gets rough, I'll tuck myself into my cozy bed and ride it out as long as you're happy to go right now and promise that, when it gets rough, you'll be OK to handle it on your own for however long it takes." Of course, I was perfectly willing to do anything I could to help smooth the rough passage, but going into it with no expectations made it easier on us both. I knew Bryan wasn't taking on anything he couldn't handle—he would happily single-hand in these conditions—and could relax, knowing he wasn't resenting my comfortable ride. (It wasn't all comfort. Here's a blurry shot of me from that evening after the boat lurched and dumped the contents of the bookshelf on my face. Meira laughed so hard, I didn't even mind holding the pose for a photo shoot.)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O1Gtt3J65u0/U3Z_fJrw_hI/AAAAAAAAKHw/6h5CLjZKTK4/s1600/18-P1060123.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O1Gtt3J65u0/U3Z_fJrw_hI/AAAAAAAAKHw/6h5CLjZKTK4/s1600/18-P1060123.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="p1">
Meira hauled up the anchor and, wet clothes still hanging from every secure place, we were on our way.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JYpVB1i3Jtk/U3Z_cAbt0oI/AAAAAAAAKHc/qqVpnR31aYo/s1600/16-P1060112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JYpVB1i3Jtk/U3Z_cAbt0oI/AAAAAAAAKHc/qqVpnR31aYo/s1600/16-P1060112.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="p1">
So, yeah. It was a long day. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nTj842dMIRU/U3Z_dR8Ju5I/AAAAAAAAKHk/aBBfgIL9wvo/s1600/17-P1060119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nTj842dMIRU/U3Z_dR8Ju5I/AAAAAAAAKHk/aBBfgIL9wvo/s1600/17-P1060119.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meira's photo processing captures the sea's mood perfectly</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="p1">
And a long night. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OAhb9kvE-x4/U3Z_f_97_QI/AAAAAAAAKH0/mZDAsD0Mi5Y/s1600/19-P1060124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OAhb9kvE-x4/U3Z_f_97_QI/AAAAAAAAKH0/mZDAsD0Mi5Y/s1600/19-P1060124.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="p1">
And the next day felt pretty long too. </div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="p1">
But we could taste the end (of this leg anyway!) The girls and I took the evening, as usual. By morning, when we would have normally taken over from Bryan, the seas had picked up enough that Hannah and I were a little queasy trying to move around the boat. Hannah and I crawled into the V-berth (aka anti-gravity-chamber) together and chatted over the smacks and crashes every boat makes when beating to windward. (“<i>LiLo's </i>just doing the biggest belly flop ever,” I reassured her once, when the boat dropped sideways off a wave and the surprisingly-solid-sounding crash reverberated through the hull.) </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c2Ai8wffWVw/U3Z_JrHfAiI/AAAAAAAAKFs/UTHviElQfx4/s1600/03-P1060021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c2Ai8wffWVw/U3Z_JrHfAiI/AAAAAAAAKFs/UTHviElQfx4/s1600/03-P1060021.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="p1">
Bryan dug deep and, with assistance from the indefatigable Meira, pushed us into the wind, past the last point of land, and then turned off the wind to beam-reach the last 10 miles into Ensenada.</div>
<div class="p1">
</div>
<div class="p1">
We raised the sails in the brisk afternoon winds and Bryan got a little rest in the cockpit. (These 2 photos are from the same angle on the boat. That "horizon" in the second is actually the big beam swell. It looks as if it will break into the cockpit but every time, the boat rides it up and over and we come up dry.) </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-21VZ3XjakyQ/U3Z_hvw-t5I/AAAAAAAAKH8/yXZOn9CNQi8/s1600/20-P1060133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-21VZ3XjakyQ/U3Z_hvw-t5I/AAAAAAAAKH8/yXZOn9CNQi8/s1600/20-P1060133.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i2Pa7WOfnHA/U3Z_irMKIJI/AAAAAAAAKIE/cziAboVrmrs/s1600/21-P1060132.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i2Pa7WOfnHA/U3Z_irMKIJI/AAAAAAAAKIE/cziAboVrmrs/s1600/21-P1060132.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="p1">
At the last minute, we held back while a cruise ship motored through the breakwater and then it was our turn—racing the looming rainclouds across the protected bay and into a slip at the marina. We tied up in a hurry and headed up to the malecon for a fish dinner to celebrate the end of Leg 5, the last of the Baja Bash!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-asl4sw-xA1U/U3Z_kJXWSKI/AAAAAAAAKIM/H_BeYJTZuJU/s1600/22-P1060139.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-asl4sw-xA1U/U3Z_kJXWSKI/AAAAAAAAKIM/H_BeYJTZuJU/s1600/22-P1060139.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-33705480017876361662014-05-05T06:00:00.000-07:002014-05-05T06:00:06.785-07:00Leg 4—Bahia Magdalena to Bahia Tortugas<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rPrONePj6Ys/U2BH_G_KYcI/AAAAAAAAEQo/-Tp3fe1rhNI/s1600/20140420_180015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rPrONePj6Ys/U2BH_G_KYcI/AAAAAAAAEQo/-Tp3fe1rhNI/s1600/20140420_180015.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">April 9-April 12</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">After we made the
decision to pass Bahia Magdalena, the rest of the night went
smoothly. Bryan navigated us around Cabo San Lazaro, the point at the
north end of the Mag Bay area, and then pointed us due north for the
run up to Bahia San Juanico. There's a San Juanico Point and a San
Juanico Bay. We made sure we were pointed at the right one. He even
picked up an internet signal as we passed Bahia Santa Maria and
pulled in a current weather forecast, which was still predicting
beautiful calms through Friday evening.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V0YAsD_HzDk/U2AYtgjSUrI/AAAAAAAAEOY/t1GNzbwxFSU/s1600/P1050733.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V0YAsD_HzDk/U2AYtgjSUrI/AAAAAAAAEOY/t1GNzbwxFSU/s1600/P1050733.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I woke to another
clear day, no boats in sight and land only a distant outline, the
glassy swell untouched by even a hint of wind. I did the dishes,
taking advantage of the chance to let them dry on the stable counter
before the sea changed her mood. I hardboiled some eggs, chopped the
last of a head of romaine, and sliced tomatoes, avocados, and a
cucumber for a chef salad. I improvised a creamy dressing, grated the
last of the pepper jack cheese, and pulled out sliced almonds for
some crunch. We set up the table and gathered around, grateful for
one more easy day heading north.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-feg1jw3BufQ/U2ACF979jnI/AAAAAAAAEKY/HRo52yA5_TA/s1600/P1050670.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-feg1jw3BufQ/U2ACF979jnI/AAAAAAAAEKY/HRo52yA5_TA/s1600/P1050670.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NCFr60NJBf4/U2ACd2Lgn_I/AAAAAAAAEKo/dTL0IVuLa7s/s1600/P1050672.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NCFr60NJBf4/U2ACd2Lgn_I/AAAAAAAAEKo/dTL0IVuLa7s/s1600/P1050672.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">In the afternoon,
Bryan hung the solar shower for me and I took a shower in the
cockpit. I should have left the bag of water out to heat for a few
more minutes—Brrrrrr!—but I finished quickly and the sun soon
warmed my skin and dried my hair.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>No Photo
Available</i></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><br /></i></span></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-style: normal;">The
wind picked up </span><i>juuust </i><span style="font-style: normal;">enough
to keep a headsail full, so Bryan and Meira hauled it up and we made
good time under drifter alone until the breeze died, less than an
hour later. In the quiet, I read aloud to the girls from Arthur
Ransome's </span><i>We Didn't Mean to Go to Sea, </i><span style="font-style: normal;">a
locationally-appropriate family favorite</span><i>.</i><span style="font-style: normal;"> </span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E-CdWeA0YyQ/U2AXwD8nU_I/AAAAAAAAEN8/SPUtjq2gEtQ/s1600/P1050710.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E-CdWeA0YyQ/U2AXwD8nU_I/AAAAAAAAEN8/SPUtjq2gEtQ/s1600/P1050710.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-style: normal;">Late afternoon found us curled up on the settee for a movie. </span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lEcctaJ1lQA/U2AX-utB0II/AAAAAAAAEOM/NosUSGjj9G0/s1600/P1050725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lEcctaJ1lQA/U2AX-utB0II/AAAAAAAAEOM/NosUSGjj9G0/s1600/P1050725.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-style: normal;">The
computer sat balanced on the counter between the sink and the stove
and the sound cord ran across the range to the stereo so we decided
to take an intermission to make popcorn. Everyone doctored it to
their own liking—salt, parmesan-garlic, or cinnamon-sugar. Bryan
sat on the companionway steps and stood to look around every few
minutes. The girls and I would typically have taken the evening
shifts, but we were within 3 or 4 hours of landfall and Bryan needed
to be awake to make the call about whether to anchor after dark or
wait until dawn. I'd been awake since 6:30 and my weariness had me
feeling a little anxious about the prospect of a night entrance. The
old rule, “Never Make Landfall at Night.” is a good rule, but not
an unbreakable one. Especially if, like tonight, t</span>he moon was
high, the seas calm, the visibility beautiful...and the captain
willing to turn around and spend the night in the safety of the sea
if needed. From the charts, San Juanico Bay seemed like an easy place
to approach in the dark, with no off-lying reefs and only one,
well-charted rock far closer to land than we wanted to venture. Bryan
didn't need me up and anxious, at least not until the last minute, so
I curled up in bed and let myself relax. </span></span>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Bryan stretched
out on the settee and got a few minutes of sleep while Meira took her
evening watch. I woke about 12:30 am in sudden silence. The girls
were both in bed, the cabin and cockpit were empty, and Bryan had
just shut down the engine and was stepping forward to set the anchor.
He'd eased his way into the outer edge of the shallow bay and, as I
watched in the light of the high half moon, he settled us snug for
the night. </span></span>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The nighttime
temperatures on Baja's southwest coast are a little cooler than where
we've been, but still not cold, and the daytime temperatures are
perfectly warm, but not hot. I've been enjoying mornings cool enough
to savor a hot cup of tea and this morning was no exception. I woke
Bryan with a cup of coffee and the girls got ready to go to shore
while I made breakfast burritos. We'd all eaten, and were just
debating if we should tackle the long row to shore or pull up and
re-anchor a little closer, when a trio of fishermen pulled up in a
panga. We exchanged greetings and then I asked if there was gasoline
in town. One of the fishermen spoke great English and he responded
affirmatively and then invited us to hop aboard for a ride. I called
over, “Uno minuto, por favor!” We scrambled into our shoes and
grabbed the backpack, our cash, a water bottle, and a dry bag with a
couple of internet-ready devices in case we found a place to check
the weather while we waited for a ride back to the boat. Bryan tossed
four empty jerry jugs across the water to the waiting fisherman, who
tucked them down among the lobster traps and tools. When we were all
ready, the panga pulled up, we stepped quickly across, and were off.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">On the way in,
Nacho manned the outboard and opened the introductions, pointing to
his crew in turn. One of the men seemed shy and I didn't catch his
name. But they proudly lifted a plank to show us the day's catch—4
white sea bass. Landing a panga at San Juanico, known for it's record
long surfing waves, was a little bit tricky. The fishermen turned the
boat stern-to the beach and instructed us to sit tight until they got
the truck attached. We watched, fascinated as they rolled a set of
wheels down into the breaking surf and floated the boat into the
makeshift cradle that connected the wheels. Luis held the boat while
Nacho backed his truck down toward the water and the crew expertly
tied the boat to the truck bed. The surf threw us into the sand and
then floated us off again several times before the truck finally
hauled us free of the sea. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3ZNirysfA_U/U2BF8wmpAxI/AAAAAAAAEPM/6CMM18X6sp8/s1600/20140410_113048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3ZNirysfA_U/U2BF8wmpAxI/AAAAAAAAEPM/6CMM18X6sp8/s1600/20140410_113048.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Once safely ashore, we hopped down from
the panga. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GrjbK7gKfOI/U2BGfufU3UI/AAAAAAAAEPg/TxHhiIqGEIA/s1600/20140410_113030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GrjbK7gKfOI/U2BGfufU3UI/AAAAAAAAEPg/TxHhiIqGEIA/s1600/20140410_113030.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Before we could begin to ask directions to the gas
station, Nacho welcomed us into his “Fish Car” a beat up,
extended-cab truck that looked just right for the job. We found
places for the fuel jugs among the crates in the back and piled into
the cab. The girls and I tried to avoid hooking our hair, or worse,
on the sharp fishing lure hanging from the headliner. We were all
grateful for the ventilation offered by the missing rear window. The
Fish Car had obviously been well-used. Of course after several days
at sea, it's quite likely we added our own aroma to the mix:-)</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-95eQ7MKdpY4/U2BHoxvwNbI/AAAAAAAAEQY/qESQB0toMLQ/s1600/20140410_111721.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-95eQ7MKdpY4/U2BHoxvwNbI/AAAAAAAAEQY/qESQB0toMLQ/s1600/20140410_111721.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Nacho drove us up
the slender road from the beach to town. He'd lived here all his life
and talked about how much the town had changed with the influx of
surfers from America. “Everything is so much more expensive!” He
pointed out the homes owned by Americans, but seemed quite content
with his life. “It's good to live in a town where you know
everyone.” </span></span>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">We pulled up to
an open structure on the side of the road and Nacho asked one of the
men there if he had any gasoline. I didn't understand the whole
conversation, but it was obvious they were out. So we drove on
through town to the official gas station, the gasolinera. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L-wUXNGGCtc/U2BHf5fdkkI/AAAAAAAAEQQ/07ya-gJy0Cw/s1600/20140410_111728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L-wUXNGGCtc/U2BHf5fdkkI/AAAAAAAAEQQ/07ya-gJy0Cw/s1600/20140410_111728.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UAA9g76CWNM/U2BHJ_N2pGI/AAAAAAAAEQA/84G2A6BmkyM/s1600/20140410_111808.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UAA9g76CWNM/U2BHJ_N2pGI/AAAAAAAAEQA/84G2A6BmkyM/s1600/20140410_111808.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Nacho
inquired about prices for us and we quickly siphoned 20 gallons into
our tanks. The smell of corn tortillas from the tortilleria down the
road overpowered the odor from the gasoline dripping from dangling
hoses. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xTH76raeK3s/U2BHU4Mm_PI/AAAAAAAAEQI/FHI1vJZl6YQ/s1600/20140410_111740.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xTH76raeK3s/U2BHU4Mm_PI/AAAAAAAAEQI/FHI1vJZl6YQ/s1600/20140410_111740.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Bryan and Nacho went into the small tienda next door for sodas
for the crew and the girls and I tried not to stare at the adorable,
ice-cream coated pre-school girl who came out of the store to stare
at us.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">We paid for the
gas and hopped back in the truck. We took a different route through
town on our way back and Nacho stopped in the road to chat with a
friend on the way. I spotted what looked like an open ambulance with
an examining room in the back and Nacho clarified, “There's the
clinic.” We have friends following us on our trek north in a few
weeks, so we asked about diesel availability and he said, “Yes,
there's diesel in town too. If your friends need anything, we always
monitor channel 69. Just have them call us.” I asked if he'd seen a
recent weather report and he verified that the wind looked calm
through Saturday. He said he has satellite internet and checks
several sites every day to know what to expect in his work out at
sea. “The next week should be the best week of the year,” he
claimed. “Not like February and March. Too much wind!” </span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hNi1XozIAMg/U2BGqTfmZNI/AAAAAAAAEPo/pYNRe9k9Eg8/s1600/20140410_113027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hNi1XozIAMg/U2BGqTfmZNI/AAAAAAAAEPo/pYNRe9k9Eg8/s1600/20140410_113027.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Back on the
beach, the men loaded the fuel into the panga. The crew had stayed
busy; fish entrails surrounded the boat and we tried to avoid
tracking any on our shoes as we climbed up on the tire and over the
gunwales. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w1b7j5VC94I/U2BGPpC_FgI/AAAAAAAAEPU/FVJ4K1wUdVw/s1600/20140410_113034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w1b7j5VC94I/U2BGPpC_FgI/AAAAAAAAEPU/FVJ4K1wUdVw/s1600/20140410_113034.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Bryan joined the fishermen in shoving us back down the
gentle slope into the water. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7sAVdJZpSaM/U2BG0wh98cI/AAAAAAAAEPw/8m8PlEc67Jo/s1600/20140410_113023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7sAVdJZpSaM/U2BG0wh98cI/AAAAAAAAEPw/8m8PlEc67Jo/s1600/20140410_113023.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The boat bucked in the surf as they
pulled the wheels back up above the high-tide line and hopped aboard.
</span></span>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">We'd anchored
half a mile or more off shore, but the panga's powerful engine made
quick work of the distance. I stepped back aboard and grabbed for our
camera to get a couple of pictures of our good samaritans. They
hadn't asked for anything, only saying they were happy they could
help. But we fished out some pesos and passed them over the lifelines
before they motored off.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MUiauKgHJMA/U2AVrLWLl5I/AAAAAAAAENc/NzR62SzWEyg/s1600/P1050687.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MUiauKgHJMA/U2AVrLWLl5I/AAAAAAAAENc/NzR62SzWEyg/s1600/P1050687.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pZ4nRzuO4ec/U2AVq2wPPhI/AAAAAAAAENY/J0U_q6a0-LU/s1600/P1050694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pZ4nRzuO4ec/U2AVq2wPPhI/AAAAAAAAENY/J0U_q6a0-LU/s1600/P1050694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I glanced down at
the clock. We'd only been gone about 30 minutes. We'd hoped that
skipping Bahia Magdalena would work out well, that there would be
fuel in San Juanico, and that we wouldn't end up regretting our
decision. But we never expected to get in, get gas, and get out so
easily! We quickly added fuel to our main tank and, just a few
minutes later, Meira hauled up the anchor, started the engine, and
got us on our way again. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">If our forecast was correct, and the weather
began to shift Friday evening, we could pop in to Bahia Asuncion,
where we spent Thanksgiving, to wait for a chance to day-hop north to
Bahia Tortugas. But if, as our San Juanico friend indicated, the
weather held all the way through Saturday, we could make it all the
way into Turtle Bay by dawn on Saturday, more than halfway done with
our trip up the coast of Baja in only 5 easy days.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The first few
hours back out at sea were fueled by leftover adrenaline from our fun
fuel run. We had a dance party on our microscopic dance floor (watch your elbows!) </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pZ4nRzuO4ec/U2AVq2wPPhI/AAAAAAAAENY/J0U_q6a0-LU/s1600/P1050694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pZ4nRzuO4ec/U2AVq2wPPhI/AAAAAAAAENY/J0U_q6a0-LU/s1600/P1050694.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">and I covered our settee cushions in the silly frog fleece we'd bought in Mazatlan.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dAr0Ijy_HVM/U2AV01iPKUI/AAAAAAAAENo/0aanyDH5fDA/s1600/P1050701.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dAr0Ijy_HVM/U2AV01iPKUI/AAAAAAAAENo/0aanyDH5fDA/s1600/P1050701.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wmeq_NltPQI/U2AXRANfC8I/AAAAAAAAEN0/tb1IExAnJEo/s1600/P1050702.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wmeq_NltPQI/U2AXRANfC8I/AAAAAAAAEN0/tb1IExAnJEo/s1600/P1050702.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OxX-r08MmS4/U2AXyhjeNHI/AAAAAAAAEOE/oNyJu0oOrd0/s1600/P1050707.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OxX-r08MmS4/U2AXyhjeNHI/AAAAAAAAEOE/oNyJu0oOrd0/s1600/P1050707.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">But as evening came on, reality set in. We still had at
least 36 hours of motoring ahead. We sent Bryan to bed to get some
rest before his night shift. Toward the end of Meira's watch, in the
span of about 5 minutes, a thick fogbank blew in and surrounded us in
opaque mist. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5fxzdhK-oLA/U2AZvDRPKvI/AAAAAAAAEOg/-NoXHE1jmi4/s1600/P1050734.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5fxzdhK-oLA/U2AZvDRPKvI/AAAAAAAAEOg/-NoXHE1jmi4/s1600/P1050734.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I squinted into the void, listened for engine noises,
and tried to stay in the present moment. The fog thickened and
lightened a bit over the next few hours. I checked the barometer
repeatedly and tried not to wonder if we were racing an oncoming
weather system. Bird sounds flew out of the fog long seconds before
the birds appeared, close on our beam. I took comfort in our remote
location. No major shipping around, no large fishing vessels. And any
small panga still out in these conditions would be alert and agile
enough to zip out of our way. </span></span>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">By the time Bryan
got up for his watch, we'd broken free of the fog. I was glad to
leave the thick, gray clouds behind. And there was evening. And there
was morning. Another day.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">We'd been
fighting a bit of a current all the way up Baja, averaging only 4
knots instead of our usual 4.5 or 5. About 6 pm, just when our Monday
morning forecast had predicted, the wind picked up a bit and the sea
joined in, slowing our speed to 2-3 knots. Knowing that we would
likely break free of the higher current in a few hours, after a tide
change or after clearing another point of land, I resisted the urge
to do the math—would we have enough fuel to get all the way to
Turtle Bay? As we passed the entrance to Bahia Asuncion, we edged in
closer to try to pick up a cell signal and a weather report. We never
managed, but we took comfort in knowing that if the wind did keep us
from making northward progress, we could always turn and head into
this safe harbor on an easy downwind run. I checked the barometer
again. And again. And pondered the cloud formations and the wave
direction. Then I let the girls take their watches, went below, and
shut my worrier off for a while. Re-analyzing the conditions every
now and then is helpful, but I tend to try to analyze them
constantly.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Again, by Bryan's
night watch, the current had eased, the winds and seas had calmed
down. I went to bed and gladly let him deal with the what-ifs for a
while. I woke about 6:30am and squinted through the cabin to where
Meira's feet stuck out across the cockpit. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Dku7TWXuylg/U2AaEutmNWI/AAAAAAAAEOo/zBhtDHeBDxY/s1600/P1050739.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Dku7TWXuylg/U2AaEutmNWI/AAAAAAAAEOo/zBhtDHeBDxY/s1600/P1050739.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">She'd woken early to give
Bryan a little rest before our arrival and sat outside, bundled
against the morning chill. I got up and helped with the navigation
particulars, making sure our course was set to avoid the rocks
standing sentinel across the southern portion of the entrance. Then
we both sat back and enjoyed the ride. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nfP422QDI5M/U2AaOfCfDTI/AAAAAAAAEOw/0dY5C_sYJno/s1600/P1050741.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nfP422QDI5M/U2AaOfCfDTI/AAAAAAAAEOw/0dY5C_sYJno/s1600/P1050741.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The pelicans were out en
masse, performing their peculiar dives with the last-second reverse.
Several dolphins arched nearby. As we passed the point and entered
the bay, we pulled out the binoculars to catch first sight of the
town. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ya_tHAYRrCk/U2AaVILP-HI/AAAAAAAAEO4/wybgqrS2W8Y/s1600/P1050744.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ya_tHAYRrCk/U2AaVILP-HI/AAAAAAAAEO4/wybgqrS2W8Y/s1600/P1050744.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The bay was emptier than on our last visit; many of the pangas
were gone and we only spotted one other sailboat's mast. We motored
past Turtle Bay's flagship blue fishing boat and found a spot to
anchor just outside the line of moored pangas. Once more, Bryan and I
executed the now-familiar anchoring dance to complete leg 4.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Bryan steps to
the bow. </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>I shift to the helm. </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>He bows deeply over the anchor and
looses the chain,</i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Arms rhythmically releasing the rode. </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>I follow his
swinging movements and wait for the flourish, </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>A figure-eight to hold
the line fast. </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>He grasps the anchor rode, </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Waves one hand theatrically
broad. </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Thumbs up for a hard reverse to set the anchor well. </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>I watch
his back tense, </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>His whole body listening to the feel of the rope. </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>I
kick at the throttle with my foot and wait </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>A finger meets his
thumb for the final “OK.”</i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>He steps back. </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>I ease the engine
into idle. </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>I lean over, </i></span></span><br />
<i style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">Turn the key, </i><br />
<i style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">Glance at the clock. </i><br />
<i style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">He steps
down into the cockpit.</i><br />
<i style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">I stand straight.</i><br />
<i style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">I circle into him for a quick kiss, </i><br />
<i style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">Our arrival tradition.</i>Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-11285693115182800032014-05-03T06:00:00.000-07:002014-05-03T06:00:05.297-07:00Leg 3—Cabo San Lucas to Bahia Magdalena<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7WPVp_ADOyk/U2AB4QhfNfI/AAAAAAAAEKQ/v516hUBPweQ/s1600/P1050656.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7WPVp_ADOyk/U2AB4QhfNfI/AAAAAAAAEKQ/v516hUBPweQ/s1600/P1050656.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">April
5-April 8</span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Back
on the boat in Cabo San Lucas, we cleaned up a bit and then, for old
time's sake, walked up the wharf to the lot where we built the
dinghy. On our way, we ran into another friend, one of the cigar
sellers on the wharf (If you're reading this...Hola, Andrez!). We
stopped by the de-sal shop to say a quick hello to the workers there
and then walked up the road to Pollo de Oro, home of cheap chicken
and ice cold ChocoMilk. </span></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--32E2fWVV1I/U2EL20txYAI/AAAAAAAAEQ8/ULPMni1Y5Dc/s1600/20140405_150157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--32E2fWVV1I/U2EL20txYAI/AAAAAAAAEQ8/ULPMni1Y5Dc/s1600/20140405_150157.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">With
that important duty off our Cabo list, we spent most of the afternoon
in the local Starbucks, trying to get all our technology ready for
the remote coast of Baja and catching up on the latest sailing news. </span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mcMDlgl9gKc/U1_-3D8POvI/AAAAAAAAEIY/sYrGTutc2hg/s1600/P1050605.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mcMDlgl9gKc/U1_-3D8POvI/AAAAAAAAEIY/sYrGTutc2hg/s1600/P1050605.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">We'd come into Cabo to warm welcomes but bad news. Some good friends
from our time in La Cruz, a family with 2 small daughters, were in
the middle of a rescue at sea. We waded through news articles and
social media, trying to sift truth from rumor. As I write, the story
isn't finished, nor is it my story to tell. But that night, we stayed
long enough to be reassured that paramedics had reached our friends,
900 miles offshore, and had stabilized their seriously ill baby. They
were expecting to move the family off the boat the next day, and
would most likely have to sink the boat to prevent it from being a
hazard to navigation for the other boaters, many of them also friends
of ours, headed that way. (As we found out the next day, a salvage
was deemed impossible and the boat was sunk.) With heavy hearts, we
headed back to the boat. The fine-dining restaurants were shutting
down for the evening, and the noisy nightclubs just ramping up.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The
next morning, Bryan and I went back to Starbucks for coffee, tea, and
news. I stayed to get some writing done, while he went to get enough
cash for our weeks in Baja. There are few, if any ATMs where we'll be
stopping so we pulled out extra cash, figuring we could always stock
up on Mexican treats in Ensenada if we had any pesos left over. The
girls tidied the boat and then they met me at the cafe. We walked
across the street to our favorite taco stand for lunch and followed
it up with churros from the street stand. We nipped into a little
shop for a few more bags of fresh produce and took them back to the
boat. </span></span></span>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Bryan
and Hannah took a few minutes to do some engine maintenance. </span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CtALOU-MeIQ/U1_-OQDa2kI/AAAAAAAAEH4/knVQIvBLQss/s1600/P1050575.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CtALOU-MeIQ/U1_-OQDa2kI/AAAAAAAAEH4/knVQIvBLQss/s1600/P1050575.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hannah
replaced the spark plugs and assisted while Bryan replaced the fuel
filter, cleaned the points, and checked on the oil levels and the
distributor cap. They fired up the engine to make sure they hadn't
broken anything in the process and then cleaned up and put the
companionway steps back into place.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Bryan
wanted to get a beer at the local Baja Brewing Company and I went
along for company. We sat in the beauty of the warm, Cabo evening and
tried to process the contrast between our pleasant day and the
heart-wrenching hours our friends had just lived through—their
daughter well, their family safe, but their home and dream lost at
sea. </span></span></span>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">We
took our whole family up to the cafe again for one last weather
check. The boat was stocked and ready, the weather window still
looked wide open for a morning departure, but I had pre-trip jitters
anyway. I woke about 3am and, with the marina's
only-works-in-the-middle-of-the-night wireless connection, checked
the forecast one more time. I listened to the nightclub's thumping
bass and talked myself back to sleep.</span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cQyOp7pBc6c/U1_-ofcpgXI/AAAAAAAAEIQ/_fUHLaB85CQ/s1600/P1050601.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cQyOp7pBc6c/U1_-ofcpgXI/AAAAAAAAEIQ/_fUHLaB85CQ/s1600/P1050601.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
</div>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">We left Cabo San
Lucas a little after 6am. The fishermen were heading out to sea </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wvITjnKFReY/U1_-51MUNtI/AAAAAAAAEIg/i9-FKszgAXY/s1600/P1050606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wvITjnKFReY/U1_-51MUNtI/AAAAAAAAEIg/i9-FKszgAXY/s1600/P1050606.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">and
the rising sun was just lighting Cabo's signature arch. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7TciUJ84w0U/U1__dYrtDII/AAAAAAAAEJA/uDHzlIFOrkg/s1600/P1050617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7TciUJ84w0U/U1__dYrtDII/AAAAAAAAEJA/uDHzlIFOrkg/s1600/P1050617.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-datpCzrQkz8/U1__VbkeyXI/AAAAAAAAEIw/7nLFFx8L2i0/s1600/P1050613.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-datpCzrQkz8/U1__VbkeyXI/AAAAAAAAEIw/7nLFFx8L2i0/s1600/P1050613.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I went back
to bed and let Bryan deal with whatever the cape would bring. Our
forecast was good, but actual conditions may vary. Cabo Falso, at the
bottom of the Baja peninsula is notorious for hurling nasty winds and
choppy seas at optimistic sailors. The sea state definitely picked up
as we rounded the cape, 4 miles west of the harbor, but it never got
uncomfortable or scary and it settled back down within an hour or so.
Bryan received a radio call from another sailor, a delivery captain
on his 40th Baja delivery. I felt reassured that his experienced
decision to head north this week supported our novice one.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DGX7KaFDbow/U2AI9hH1olI/AAAAAAAAENA/6ZtLUqXIQKM/s1600/P1050636.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DGX7KaFDbow/U2AI9hH1olI/AAAAAAAAENA/6ZtLUqXIQKM/s1600/P1050636.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The morning went
well. I even had the energy to bake snickerdoodles for a grateful
crew. We weren't able to sail, but the wind was up just enough to
keep a reefed main full, steadying the boat in the mild sea. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NBXGF6FraNg/U2ACgh0ebAI/AAAAAAAAEKw/w5zFjdWghdw/s1600/P1050677.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NBXGF6FraNg/U2ACgh0ebAI/AAAAAAAAEKw/w5zFjdWghdw/s1600/P1050677.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">About
mid-afternoon, I got up to pump a pitcher of fresh water and was
dismayed to see what looked like dirt in the pitcher. Bryan and I
both smelled it and came to the conclusion that our freshwater tank
had likely been contaminated with bilge water. I started a mental
inventory of water from all the various places we store it—12
gallons on deck, 5 gallons in solar showers, 6 gallons of emergency
bottled water, 30 gallons in isolated tanks under the girls bunks—and
Bryan lifted the floorboards to investigate. A few cups of water in
the bilge is normal, as the engine's propeller shaft lets a little
bit in to lubricate it as it turns. But it was good we noticed when
we did; the bilge was getting pretty full and some of the bilge water
had seeped in around the access port in the top of the water tank.
Fortunately that meant the tank was not permanently compromised and
could be made usable again after some serious flushing.
Unfortunately, there was clearly something wrong with our bilge pump. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FMAGeg4cNuE/U1__8DQlK5I/AAAAAAAAEJQ/sIs4FswU1dE/s1600/P1050626.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FMAGeg4cNuE/U1__8DQlK5I/AAAAAAAAEJQ/sIs4FswU1dE/s1600/P1050626.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Bryan grabbed the manual bilge pump and Hannah and I helped steady
the hoses as we pumped the seawater overboard. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AdCkMCPTSAU/U1__-3-eaBI/AAAAAAAAEJY/kvHER842Bd4/s1600/P1050627.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AdCkMCPTSAU/U1__-3-eaBI/AAAAAAAAEJY/kvHER842Bd4/s1600/P1050627.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Then Bryan spent an
hour or so diagnosing the source of the problem (an intermittently
faulty float switch, we think) and creating a work-around. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dy4bOuBF1Kw/U2AAW7LxOKI/AAAAAAAAEJg/D0ZDXDw3_s4/s1600/P1050633.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dy4bOuBF1Kw/U2AAW7LxOKI/AAAAAAAAEJg/D0ZDXDw3_s4/s1600/P1050633.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">We talked
over the pros and cons of continuing on versus going back to Cabo,
but going back was never really an option. Both the bilge pump and
our freshwater access will take a little more work than usual until
we can get them fixed. But neither one is a true emergency, both will
be easier to fix in the US, and ignoring the splendid weather window
would only delay our return.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">We put the floor
back together and brought in some bottled water for drinking and
cooking. I made a huge pot of pressure cooker macaroni-and-cheese
for dinner (and midnight snacks) and sprinkled it with the last of
the vacuum-sealed bacon from San Diego. At sea, we live on different
schedules and often eat separately, grabbing quick calories whenever
we're hungry. It felt like a small victory to pull off dinner
together, everyone awake and happy at the same time.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The evening
watches passed by easily. The girls still enjoy sitting out on deck
during their watch, but I've discovered that long-term exposure to
the elements aggravates my anxiety levels. If I sit in the wind and
stare at the sea long enough, I forget to relax and start seeing
danger over ever wave. The little bit of afternoon wind died down
before midnight and I spent most of my watches below in the cozy
cabin. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-csKQ_agolwM/U2ABAVXnugI/AAAAAAAAEJ4/x4yS9iW5VTw/s1600/P1050650.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-csKQ_agolwM/U2ABAVXnugI/AAAAAAAAEJ4/x4yS9iW5VTw/s1600/P1050650.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Though we kept a careful eye out, we didn't see any boats all
night. We were far enough away from land and the major
fishing/shipping areas to relax a little. Bryan took the long night
watch and the girls and I took turns the next morning. The motion was
quiet, the engine noise low, and we spent a lazy morning reading and
chatting.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xY2QthvDRxA/U2AAu7G76XI/AAAAAAAAEJw/uv-fZ52CHpg/s1600/P1050643.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xY2QthvDRxA/U2AAu7G76XI/AAAAAAAAEJw/uv-fZ52CHpg/s1600/P1050643.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">In the afternoon, </span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">we started doing some figuring. Fuel in
Bahia Magdalena is hard to come by. It's there, but visiting sailors
either need to contact the retired port captain and arrange a
delivery from the bigger port in San Carlos or take the windy channel
up to San Carlos themselves, anchor in the unprotected channel, and
bum a ride to shore. Either way, refilling the fuel tanks could take
several days. The weather was supposed to be good, amazing even, for
another few days and we were concerned that, if we pulled into Bahia
Magdalena and had to wait a day or 2 to refuel, we would lose the
rest of the great weather window. But we didn't have enough gas to
last us all the way to Bahia Asuncion, where we got gas on the way
down from Turtle Bay.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QyQlTN9R1Ow/U2ACa0idPzI/AAAAAAAAEKg/b2OIChPjx98/s1600/P1050674.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QyQlTN9R1Ow/U2ACa0idPzI/AAAAAAAAEKg/b2OIChPjx98/s1600/P1050674.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I pulled out the
guide books and scoured their entries for hints about fuel
availability. Most sailboat engines require diesel, but cars and
pangas run on gasoline. We figured we'd be able to get at least a few
gallons in the small community of San Juanico, another day or so up
the coast. Even if it still took us several days in port to get it,
at least we would have gotten as far north as possible in the
flat-calm conditions. So we called a conference with the crew,
weighing our weariness, our desire to get in versus our desire to get
north. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vmpADTDr5vk/U2ADAsXtWyI/AAAAAAAAELQ/jCDr2HGZAWg/s1600/P1050685.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vmpADTDr5vk/U2ADAsXtWyI/AAAAAAAAELQ/jCDr2HGZAWg/s1600/P1050685.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F9Ylea7OWc0/U2AC1QBXOJI/AAAAAAAAELA/y5ngAC-sFEs/s1600/P1050682.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F9Ylea7OWc0/U2AC1QBXOJI/AAAAAAAAELA/y5ngAC-sFEs/s1600/P1050682.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Everyone agreed it was a chance worth taking, so we extended
our GPS route to head straight past the entrance to Bahia Magdalena.
We passed the entrance to the bay sometime after dark and those who
were awake exchanged quiet high-fives. Leg 3 complete!</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o4OLcWXzyO8/U2AB3JTBemI/AAAAAAAAEKI/UVhgS91xYUE/s1600/P1050661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o4OLcWXzyO8/U2AB3JTBemI/AAAAAAAAEKI/UVhgS91xYUE/s1600/P1050661.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-88543497616017127752014-05-01T06:00:00.000-07:002014-05-01T06:00:08.092-07:00Leg 2—Mazatlan to Cabo San Lucas<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T8qer-A8HI0/U12qKDpIQlI/AAAAAAAAEBk/u7qlJXsjsJ4/s1600/P1050457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T8qer-A8HI0/U12qKDpIQlI/AAAAAAAAEBk/u7qlJXsjsJ4/s1600/P1050457.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">March
31-April 5</span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">We
left Mazatlan late in the afternoon on March 31. The wind was up a
bit and we had to rev the motor up to get across the small bar at the
entrance. We motorsailed in the afternoon wind chop and then, as the
evening calm arrived, took down the sail and motored through the
night. </span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M5sXOLiXF9c/U12qKkHSFwI/AAAAAAAAEBs/gkZ9xbxF39c/s1600/P1050491.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M5sXOLiXF9c/U12qKkHSFwI/AAAAAAAAEBs/gkZ9xbxF39c/s1600/P1050491.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Our new watch schedule makes better use of the girls' energy
and the whole crew's natural rhythms. </span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zrrJg8H3CLU/U12qX3w0WdI/AAAAAAAAEDM/Ov3WSkqLahw/s1600/P1050551.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zrrJg8H3CLU/U12qX3w0WdI/AAAAAAAAEDM/Ov3WSkqLahw/s1600/P1050551.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">On a good day, if everything is
humming along, a typical watch schedule looks like this:</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">8am-10am—Bethany
(I usually wake about 6:30 or 7, but Bryan sends me back to bed for a
few more luxurious minutes of dozing.)</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">10am-12pm—Meira
(She typically wakes earlier than Hannah and likes to take a 2 hour
watch and get it over with!)</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">12pm-1pm—Hannah</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">1pm-2pm—Bethany</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">2pm-3pm—Hannah</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">3pm-6pm—Bryan
(This gives the day crew a solid break before sunset, but it also
give Bryan a chance to check on all the systems and adjust anything
that needs it—sail set, course, etc.—before he's off for a while
in the evening. It's also good for him to be on watch to fiddle with
the sails if the afternoon wind picks up.)</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">6pm-7pm—Bethany</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">7pm-8pm—Hannah
(She likes the sunset watch!)</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">8pm-10pm—Meira
(She loves a starry night watch.)</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">10pm-11pm—Hannah's
last watch of the day</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">11pm-12pm—Bethany
(If all has been going well, I may have been dozing on the settee
during the girls watches, but they wake me at least every hour to
talk over course adjustments or any concerns. This gives Bryan a few
solid hours of sleep before his long night watch.)</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">12pm-8am—Bryan
(He worked nights a lot in our early married life and loves the quiet
solitude this long night watch offers. He listens to podcasts, dozes
in 10-minute increments, or just stares at the stars.)</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Of
course, ultimately Bryan is the captain and if something goes wrong,
we get him up to deal with it. But the girls and I can handle most
things and so far, this schedule is proving much more sustainable
than our watches on the way down the coast. For many reasons, we
didn't have the girls taking regular watches on our southbound
journey. And we needed to hand steer quite a bit, so the watches were
much more tiring. I know there will be long days, rough seas, and
uncomfortable hours ahead. There will be times when Bryan and I, or
maybe even just Bryan, have to take a difficult watch, fighting the
tiller. But with the girls each taking 4 hours of watches a day,
Bryan and I will go into the tough times so much more well-rested.
And in the easy times, we can sneak a little more fun into the long
passages.</span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8ZksycfW1Yc/U12qLEJVSjI/AAAAAAAAEB0/wsd1U9FqwDY/s1600/P1050500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8ZksycfW1Yc/U12qLEJVSjI/AAAAAAAAEB0/wsd1U9FqwDY/s1600/P1050500.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">On
our run from Mazatlan to Los Frailes, the point on Baja closest to
Mazatlan, Bryan spent his afternoon watch curled up on the settee
with the girls watching Star Wars: The Phantom Menace and hopping up
every 10 minutes to take a look around the empty sea.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">We
came into Los Frailes a little after sunrise on April 2. </span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bybi8bcXxNc/U12qOqXRqzI/AAAAAAAAECE/tZxtB8icbi4/s1600/P1050511.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bybi8bcXxNc/U12qOqXRqzI/AAAAAAAAECE/tZxtB8icbi4/s1600/P1050511.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">It's
interesting to watch how our shifting attitudes change our
experience. On the way down, we were all about exploration, taking
advantage of every opportunity to <i>Go...See...Do!</i> But on the
way back, our focus is more on getting the boat (and ourselves) back
home. So instead of pushing ourselves to drop the dinghy and take the
long row to shore to explore, we puttered around aboard for the day.
I made tortillas using our new tortilladora.</span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KGvmeq-vDfI/U12qMzkfeDI/AAAAAAAAEB8/b7_8SidO3-I/s1600/P1050504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KGvmeq-vDfI/U12qMzkfeDI/AAAAAAAAEB8/b7_8SidO3-I/s1600/P1050504.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">And
Bryan got a flopper-stopper set up to help calm the motion of the
boat in rolly anchorages. While we were in Oldtown Mazatlan looking
for computer parts, we stopped in a small store filled with kitchen
and household necessities. I'd been looking for a pepper grinder for
months and we found one there as well as the tortilla press, some
plastic drinking glasses, and a large plastic cutting board. </span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pXqpQTRX2oA/U12qPCtOWQI/AAAAAAAAECM/K-2Sa1svDjk/s1600/P1050514.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pXqpQTRX2oA/U12qPCtOWQI/AAAAAAAAECM/K-2Sa1svDjk/s1600/P1050514.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />Our
friends from S/V Gratitoullie had given us some tips about making a
flopper-stopper out of a cutting board (handy for cleaning fish on
the side decks too!) so Bryan pulled out his drill and some extra
line and rigged it up. He hung the board from some lines off the
spinnaker pole and hung our dinghy anchor from one end as a weight.
This helps the cutting board turn vertically and sink quickly as the
boat rolls one way. Then, as the boat rolls away from the flopper
stopper, the board flattens out and rises slowly through the water,
adding resistance to keep the boat from settling into a pendulum-like
rocking pattern. The swell was pretty light, but we think it really
made a difference.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The
next day, after a good night's rest, we motored the few hours into
San Jose del Cabo. We hadn't planned to stop there, but we'd heard it
was a delightful little town. We planned to spend one night, just
long enough to get Bryan into Cabo to order our English laptop so it
would be waiting for us on Monday morning. We got gas at the fuel
dock, called the office on the VHF for a slip assignment, pulled in,
and walked the 1/2 mile around the harbor to check in at the office.
We wandered for a few minutes, trying to find our way. </span></span></span>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">When
we finally located the office, I was so focused on our task, I didn't
notice the group of people leaving the office area until I heard one
of them call my name. My brain did a lightning-fast tally of the
friends we'd met on our trip. Nope, none of them should be here now.
I turned around wondering who could have recognized me. As it
happens, the marina office is adjacent to a real estate office. And
one of the agents and I share a mutual friend, who, when she heard we
were going to be stopping in the area, encouraged us to meet. It
didn't work out on our way down; the dinghy rebuild and busy holiday
season conspired against a rendezvous. But apparently it was meant to
happen. Toni and her husband, Bruce gave us a ride back to our boat
and offered Bryan a ride into the computer store as well. Toni has
been following our story almost since the beginning and she came
aboard the boat, posed for pictures with us, and generally made us
feel like mini-celebrities.</span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OlQ5rW51pbE/U12qP_YqmhI/AAAAAAAAECU/wcwZ6HRwX6I/s1600/P1050521.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OlQ5rW51pbE/U12qP_YqmhI/AAAAAAAAECU/wcwZ6HRwX6I/s1600/P1050521.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The
girls and I hung out on the boat for the afternoon, while Bryan ran
into Cabo. Meira took advantage of a burst of energy to wash some
laundry and do dishes on the dock. While she was out there, a fellow
sailor from a neighboring boat stopped by and offered to take us to
the grocery store. We made tentative arrangements for the next day
and I felt great about the hope of getting so many things crossed off
our Before-Baja list. Late in the afternoon, Bryan came back with bad
news. The Apple distributor for the area was out of English laptops
and there was no telling when they would get more in. We'd thought
we'd found the perfect solution to our computer troubles, so we took
a few minutes to regroup and talk over our options.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pretty
soon, it became obvious that our first priority was dinner. We'd seen
a little fish shack called "The Drunken Sailor" on the road
near the marina so we walked up and splurged on some fish tacos,
ceviche, and sesame fish and chips. The fish tacos were deliciously
unique, with sesame, basil, pineapple, and cabbage, and the fish and
chips and ceviche were superb as well. We came back with renewed
energy for our technical difficulties.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Bryan
finally verified that a Linux OS would run the internet from our
TelCel stick. This is our most important functionality, as it will be
our main source for weather forecasts on Baja. He moved the small
hard drive from my old computer (the one with the broken keyboard) to
the new laptop (the one with the dead hard drive) and got Linux up
and running. The touch pad mysteriously didn't work, but we have an
external wireless mouse, so we can limp along until San Diego. We
installed important software—a word processor for my writing
project, an off-line blog editor, a few games for long passages—and
bookmarked the low-bandwidth interfaces for several weather
forecasts.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The
system is working so well that in retrospect, it seems like an
obvious decision. But lately, I've been working on subduing the A+
student in me who wants to get everything right the first time. Life
is not a True/False question. It is multiple choice, usually one of
those tricky ones with more than one right answer.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The
next morning, our kind neighbor drove Hannah and me to the MEGA for
the last of the non-perishable provisions. We stopped at a Subway for
lunch on our way out. What a treat! Ordering in Spanish was a bit
difficult, and there are no foot-long options in this metric country.
But the food tasted just the same. </span></span></span>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Back
on the boat, we ate our sandwiches and put away our haul in a hurry. </span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xiKcRN6GxiA/U12qSfFaNjI/AAAAAAAAECc/7Ig59EAgnzI/s1600/P1050532.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xiKcRN6GxiA/U12qSfFaNjI/AAAAAAAAECc/7Ig59EAgnzI/s1600/P1050532.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2uFcGXA3DGQ/U12qSQr80CI/AAAAAAAAECg/oXev2M5nVn4/s1600/P1050533.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2uFcGXA3DGQ/U12qSQr80CI/AAAAAAAAECg/oXev2M5nVn4/s1600/P1050533.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Then Bryan and I walked over to the marina office to check out. The
afternoon wind had picked up considerably, but we only had 10 miles
or so to our intended destination and we thought the wind would be
from a helpful direction once we got out of the harbor. So, with only
a little bit of trouble in the wind and current, we pulled out of our
slip and headed out to sea. We cleared the breakwater and turned
west, but the wind stayed on our nose. We were only making 3 knots
against the breeze in the steep chop and we started doing the math to
see if we would get in before dark. We planned to stop in Santa Maria
Cove, a little one-boat anchorage a few miles east of Cabo and spend
a day or so there enjoying the reportedly fabulous snorkeling before
heading on into Cabo San Lucas. But we didn't want to risk a night
entrance in a strange place with questionable chart accuracy.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">About
the time Bryan and I were trying to come to a conclusion about the
wisdom of continuing, we heard a noise. It came again regularly, but
not rhythmically. I was trying to identify the source—animal?
vegetable? mechanical?—when Meira poked her head up. "I hear a
noise coming from the engine." Bryan throttled down and I took
the helm while he went below to have a look. He quickly identified
the trouble. The accessory drive, a pulley that powers the
alternator, had lost its something-something and that meant that
something-something-something, but we're OK for now. </span></span></span>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I
tend to have selective hearing in a crisis and Bryan knows I only
want to know 1-If he knows what the problem is, 2-If he thinks he can
fix it, and 3-If we're all going to die in the meantime. Reassured
with “Yes, Yes, and That's ridiculous,” I stayed at the helm
while Bryan raised our jib. </span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IU1FGs6SMAM/U12qTEfF7TI/AAAAAAAAECs/_KYzhiUdMJ4/s1600/P1050541.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IU1FGs6SMAM/U12qTEfF7TI/AAAAAAAAECs/_KYzhiUdMJ4/s1600/P1050541.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The wind was perfect for a reach back
through the breakwater and, though we could probably have safely used
our engine for the last few seconds of docking, we didn't need it.
The slip we'd been at the night before was empty and perfectly
situated for an emergency dock-under-sail. The girls prepped the
docklines and fenders and I reminded them, “We'll be coming in
hot!” Bryan trimmed and released the jib sheet to keep our speed
under control and, at the last minute, turned us a little upwind and
backfilled the sail to spill off more speed and blow us close to the
dock finger. On the bow, Meira ducked as the sail came over and then
stepped gracefully down onto the dock. I followed a second later and
fumbled the midline around the end cleat. “Gently, gently,” Bryan
called, “we've got lots of room to slow her down.” Hannah stepped
down when the stern swung in and we eased the boat to a quiet stop.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Bryan
and the girls all looked to me, usually the most nervous of the crew.
When they saw my wide grin, their faces responded in kind. We all
agreed, “That was actually really fun!” We've practiced sail
maneuvers many times, sometimes from desire, other times out of
necessity. This time, the wind and slip configuration had been so
perfect, the crew so reliable, I hadn't even gotten jittery.</span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-54MXHDl4D-o/U12qVoxbxPI/AAAAAAAAEC0/JM2JWb9P6z8/s1600/P1050545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-54MXHDl4D-o/U12qVoxbxPI/AAAAAAAAEC0/JM2JWb9P6z8/s1600/P1050545.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">We
walked the long path over to the marina office again, stopping to
play around the sculptures and study the art along the way. And then
we took the deserving crew out for gelato. </span></span></span>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Later
that evening, Bryan dangled over the engine compartment, muttering.
He has spares for just about every system on the boat—extra fuel
pump, water pump, gaskets, wires, fuses. Even a spare engine head.
But he remembers looking at the accessory drive before we left and
thinking, “That's so straightforward. It's just a pulley. How could
anything go wrong with that?” Thankfully, we didn't need the whole
pulley, just an extra bolt. He stepped through the cabin to his
spare-parts locker and fished out a couple. One was just the right
size to fit the drive and he cleaned it up and reinstalled it with a
little bit of lock-tite. He took a few extra minutes talking over
engine specifics with his willing assistant, Meira. She asked great
questions and soaked it all in.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The
next morning, we got up early, tested the engine, and headed back out
through the breakwater. </span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HGJV3ezu7WM/U12qWC4cRtI/AAAAAAAAEC4/TMAMP1JgUpQ/s1600/P1050549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HGJV3ezu7WM/U12qWC4cRtI/AAAAAAAAEC4/TMAMP1JgUpQ/s1600/P1050549.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">We wanted to beat the afternoon thermal winds
and get anchored in the bay before the tour boats arrived. As we
approached the cove, a huge tour boat slipped in ahead of us and
dropped anchor right in the middle. A line of snorkelers in bright
orange life jackets waddled to the stern deck and dropped,
flippers-first, into the water. We circled around in the entrance for
a few minutes, considering our options. We wondered about the safety
of anchoring with all those people in the water and peeked over the
gunwales at the low-visibility water. Finally, we decided to just
head on into Cabo San Lucas. We turned away, not really all that
disappointed, and spent a couple of bouncy hours tacking into the
headwinds toward Cabo. </span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-34wp_-j64Fk/U12qWXXkRuI/AAAAAAAAEDE/hjqe8Hw7Smg/s1600/P1050550.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-34wp_-j64Fk/U12qWXXkRuI/AAAAAAAAEDE/hjqe8Hw7Smg/s1600/P1050550.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">It's an awful lot more fun to be at sea in
choppy conditions than to deal with them in a rolly anchorage. </span></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8Veo01nC2x8/U12qYUH4xhI/AAAAAAAAEDQ/8_pxZsqVJFQ/s1600/P1050561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8Veo01nC2x8/U12qYUH4xhI/AAAAAAAAEDQ/8_pxZsqVJFQ/s1600/P1050561.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
</div>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">We
came into the marina in the mid-afternoon. Pangas, pelicans, and sea
lions vied for our attention in the busy entrance. </span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MOmLNJjFskw/U1_-Tlao-1I/AAAAAAAAEII/lguTg0xCNeU/s1600/P1050581.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MOmLNJjFskw/U1_-Tlao-1I/AAAAAAAAEII/lguTg0xCNeU/s1600/P1050581.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">We'd e-mailed
ahead to let our friends know we were coming, but were still pleased
to see a familiar face on the dock as we pulled in. We tied up a
greeted each other. “Marcilio!” He seemed surprised to be
remembered but responded, “Bethany!” If he was surprised, I was
</span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: black;"><i><span style="font-weight: normal;">shocked.</span></i></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">
I didn't expect to be remembered by name; hundreds of boaters come
through each month. But I suppose, not very many build boats in the
parking lot. We chatted for a few minutes, his English much improved,
my Spanish a little rusty from our month with mostly cruisers. And
then he shooed us on up to the office. “They're closing at 2!”
(I'm not going to bore you here with the saga of our time-zone issues
and how difficult it can be to figure out the correct time when some
devices change automatically, others don't [or change, but not
correctly], and US and Mexican Daylight Saving Time don't start on
the same week. It shouldn't be this difficult, but it is.)</span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">The
office staff was so glad to see us, they almost forgot to charge us
for our stay. We told stories of our recent adventures and assured
them all that </span></span></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: black;"><i><span style="font-weight: normal;">Rover
</span></i></span></span><span style="font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">was
doing well. “No leaks!” Even behind-the-scenes personnel we
barely remembered came out for hugs and greetings. It was a great way
to wrap up an easy second leg.</span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xSIf7m-kszM/U1_-S-7NH2I/AAAAAAAAEIA/UCd6E3qqCNQ/s1600/P1050599.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xSIf7m-kszM/U1_-S-7NH2I/AAAAAAAAEIA/UCd6E3qqCNQ/s1600/P1050599.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<br />
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-86238591110189343552014-04-30T06:00:00.001-07:002014-04-30T06:00:05.098-07:00Leg 1, Intermission—Mazatlan<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GNTxA8b75_8/U12q1O-I8lI/AAAAAAAAEGc/ilbLa0YuDiQ/s1600/P1050253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GNTxA8b75_8/U12q1O-I8lI/AAAAAAAAEGc/ilbLa0YuDiQ/s1600/P1050253.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">We spent most of our first afternoon in Mazatlan in or around the pool, </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-08-XzHomfBU/U12q4jS1SVI/AAAAAAAAEG0/j9pR6Hr_n38/s1600/P1050315.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-08-XzHomfBU/U12q4jS1SVI/AAAAAAAAEG0/j9pR6Hr_n38/s1600/P1050315.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9KanT4xhb84/U12qwF52u7I/AAAAAAAAEF8/ENXCraTUZGQ/s1600/P1050242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9KanT4xhb84/U12qwF52u7I/AAAAAAAAEF8/ENXCraTUZGQ/s1600/P1050242.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">but Bryan and I also did some information gathering, trying to figure out where to buy a replacement hard drive for our computer. On the coast of Baja, we planned to use the computer along with a USB internet stick to pull in all-important weather forecasts. We had no other devices aboard that had this capability, so we felt quite a bit of pressure to get it working again.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6uFCEnL6nqM/U12qbmZSAlI/AAAAAAAAEDk/N2s571_-okE/s1600/P1050177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6uFCEnL6nqM/U12qbmZSAlI/AAAAAAAAEDk/N2s571_-okE/s1600/P1050177.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Take your daughter to work day?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">The next morning, Bryan and I took several buses into Office Depot and the computer store in downtown Mazatlan. Office Depot doesn't carry hard drives and didn't seem to have any way to order them. We eyed the new laptops, just in case we had to go that route, but all the keyboards were Spanish keyboards and all the operating systems were in Spanish too. The computer store downtown was closed already, since it was Sunday, so we grabbed some lunch and made plans to come back the next day. We spent the afternoon in the pool and I spent some time working on our health insurance situation, trying to beat the deadlines for the Affordable Care Act while jumping through some illogical hoops (The website for the Oregon Exchange was broken, so we had to use an agent. But the agent referral website I found was broken too. Finally, I found some agents in our area and started gathering information, much of it contradicting. You have to be physically present in Oregon to apply. But you have to apply before March 31 whether you're in Oregon or not. Moving back will qualify you for a 60 day open enrollment period. Moving back will <i>not</i> qualify you for a 60 day open enrollment period. And on. And on.) We just wanted to make sure we were covered when we hit the US, but dealing with all of this hoopla, without phones and on sketchy internet required more than one pool-side pina colada.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">March 24, we took another trip to Oldtown Mazatlan. The main electronics store didn't sell internal hard drives. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HZ8qD8tl0BI/U12qigmdPKI/AAAAAAAAEEU/sY5ROOJ4J1Y/s1600/P1050190.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HZ8qD8tl0BI/U12qigmdPKI/AAAAAAAAEEU/sY5ROOJ4J1Y/s1600/P1050190.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">As we walked down the street, we saw computers in a pawn shop window and went in to ask if they knew where we could find them. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4NPWvIeTNNg/U12qgG3vVqI/AAAAAAAAEEI/kBJ2igcMfkI/s1600/P1050189.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4NPWvIeTNNg/U12qgG3vVqI/AAAAAAAAEEI/kBJ2igcMfkI/s1600/P1050189.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">They sent us around the block to “Computer-Repair-Shop Alley” and we popped in to one shop after another </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5ZFGauTDf3g/U12qfuQA7WI/AAAAAAAAEEA/RGtczAdS8HY/s1600/P1050188.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5ZFGauTDf3g/U12qfuQA7WI/AAAAAAAAEEA/RGtczAdS8HY/s1600/P1050188.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">only to be told they didn't have any way to find us a hard drive. It was hard to believe that in a city this size, we couldn't find a replacement hard drive, so we kept looking. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dqwPFwmgSLU/U12qfSMwxbI/AAAAAAAAED8/L-KdmMMQRPs/s1600/P1050185.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dqwPFwmgSLU/U12qfSMwxbI/AAAAAAAAED8/L-KdmMMQRPs/s1600/P1050185.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">The last shop we went in sent us to yet another store, a little no-name repair shop around the corner. They weren't open, but the woman in the store next door </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kWkSfGfUv0A/U12qdbGQOyI/AAAAAAAAED0/eViF5oRVpII/s1600/P1050184.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kWkSfGfUv0A/U12qdbGQOyI/AAAAAAAAED0/eViF5oRVpII/s1600/P1050184.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">said they were just out for lunch and would be back in 30 minutes. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HzVyNaniRVA/U12qb30Mh0I/AAAAAAAAEDo/fsBJaqFFLWM/s1600/P1050183.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HzVyNaniRVA/U12qb30Mh0I/AAAAAAAAEDo/fsBJaqFFLWM/s1600/P1050183.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">(You should know that almost all of this communication was in Spanish, so we did our best and hoped we'd understood correctly.) We spent a few minutes in a Mexican-style Sur la Table, where household goods of every sort stood shoulder to shoulder on ceiling-high shelves. We picked up a tortilladora (it's way more fun to say than <i>tortilla press</i>) and a few other things we needed, including a large cutting board for a project on the boat. We stopped in lots of fabric stores and finally found some polar fleece to cover our settee seats. The current upholstery picks up salt from our wet clothes and then attracts the humidity. Polar fleece doesn't attract dew in the same way and we wanted dry seats for the trip home. I fumbled through a description of safety pins and Bryan finally rescued me by grabbing a pen and playing a quick round of pictionary. While we were getting ready to check out, the power went out. They print multiple sales tickets and receipts for every sale, so I hoped we could still make our purchases, but the power came back on right away and we got what we needed.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">We'd gone back to the no-name computer store several times during all of this, but they still hadn't returned. Now, after all the shopping we could think of and a little lunch ourselves, we walked back and sat down in front of the store. The glass doors were still locked, but the metal gates were still open. We figured they were coming back at some point today, but didn't know how long we should wait. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SKP9MfJgCP4/U12qjpQG4sI/AAAAAAAAEEc/-U3z86QWwMs/s1600/P1050196.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SKP9MfJgCP4/U12qjpQG4sI/AAAAAAAAEEc/-U3z86QWwMs/s1600/P1050196.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">About the time we were thinking about making a plan, the owner pulled up. We followed him into the cool shop and explained, with all of our new vocabulary, hard-earned from a day of searching all over town, what it was we needed. He understood right away and started tapping away on his laptop to see if he could find us anything in the area. The only drives he could find that would fit our computer were similar to the hard drive in my old laptop. It's keyboard was broken, so we couldn't use it for weather, but Bryan figured he could use recovery media to reinstall our current system on the old, but still usable hard drive. He spent the rest of the day trying to pull in recovery media in the marina's computer room only to discover that it wouldn't install on any disk but the original which, of course, was broken. You should thank me right now for all the computery details I'm omitting from this story, but we spent much of the next few days fighting, with bad internet, in another language, to solve a problem Bryan could have solved in the states in an afternoon with $50-100. I finally summed it up to a friend. “This computer problem is just as important, just as expensive, and just as frustrating as our dinghy loss (though, of course, not as sad). But it doesn't make for nearly as good a story!” He downloaded a whole new operating system, only to discover the install wizard was in Spanish. It failed to install on my old hard drive, but only after it had erased the old operating system. We seriously considered just buying a Spanish laptop for the Baja weather and then re-selling it in the US. I finally found a shop in Cabo San Lucas that said the could get us a new, English-keyboard laptop in only 2 business days. Problem solved! (See the next post for the disappointing truth:-)</span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">We spent the next few days dealing with the computer, insurance, and bank fraud issues. The bank wanted us to mail in our paperwork or come in in person. We finally convinced them to let us scan it in and e-mail it—whew! </span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">We made a run to Walmart for groceries and some clothes and shoes. Meira is still growing and we all are going through shoes far faster than at home.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nhis4a7LRLY/U12qjvgyldI/AAAAAAAAEEg/wxZZMJkPSUo/s1600/P1050212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nhis4a7LRLY/U12qjvgyldI/AAAAAAAAEEg/wxZZMJkPSUo/s1600/P1050212.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NHKLZdbz9qQ/U12qnxN3ShI/AAAAAAAAEE4/v8sqS94ftvQ/s1600/P1050216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NHKLZdbz9qQ/U12qnxN3ShI/AAAAAAAAEE4/v8sqS94ftvQ/s1600/P1050216.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Devouring our salad, a special treat!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vea3ybLx82A/U12qngGungI/AAAAAAAAEE0/IqLM9tCLlGE/s1600/P1050219.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vea3ybLx82A/U12qngGungI/AAAAAAAAEE0/IqLM9tCLlGE/s1600/P1050219.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u3QPmtEk5ro/U12qoDEH9WI/AAAAAAAAEFA/sb6SgIaxFNs/s1600/P1050223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u3QPmtEk5ro/U12qoDEH9WI/AAAAAAAAEFA/sb6SgIaxFNs/s1600/P1050223.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Market day tradition: meat for dinner</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">We spent more time in the pool. Meira joined a group of 50 and 60 year-old sailors who play a daily round of water volleyball. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-427ZHgcBrHg/U12qr0IUSLI/AAAAAAAAEFY/Ip1tLXC2FDo/s1600/P1050226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-427ZHgcBrHg/U12qr0IUSLI/AAAAAAAAEFY/Ip1tLXC2FDo/s1600/P1050226.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wRPSA7cWfsA/U12qvcvbQ8I/AAAAAAAAEF0/6Ucr126S4B8/s1600/P1050238.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wRPSA7cWfsA/U12qvcvbQ8I/AAAAAAAAEF0/6Ucr126S4B8/s1600/P1050238.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
And Hannah and I relaxed in our own way:-)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jXU9tyLIqQg/U12quYe8gGI/AAAAAAAAEFs/sHJiNoxuksY/s1600/P1050230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jXU9tyLIqQg/U12quYe8gGI/AAAAAAAAEFs/sHJiNoxuksY/s1600/P1050230.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">One day a friend, a single-handing woman we'd met in La Cruz, showed up just down the dock from us. When she heard we were hoping to add a sail rig to our dinghy, she dug out a dinghy sail and passed it on to us. She'd grown up sailing and really wanted the girls to have the opportunity to learn on their own in a small boat. Hopefully we can get the rig finished before the trip is over.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">March 28, we planned to leave. We checked the weather, had all our groceries ready, and made one last trip for fish tacos at The Fish Market, a favorite restaurant in the area. But in the afternoon, after we'd checked out, I started feeling a migraine come on, so we made the decision to stay another day. The weather looked good for several days, and we didn't want to leave for the long, Sea of Cortez crossing down by ¼ of the crew. The next afternoon, we had checked out again when we got the news: all the kid-boats we'd hoped to meet here had just gotten back from their inland trip to the Copper Canyon. We made the easy decision to stay “just one more day” and let the marina office know. Somehow, we managed to corral all the families for a 22-person dinner out. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6yfXd_utUuw/U12q5I4v90I/AAAAAAAAEG8/wldxlebXTuE/s1600/P1050338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6yfXd_utUuw/U12q5I4v90I/AAAAAAAAEG8/wldxlebXTuE/s1600/P1050338.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">The waiters opened a tab for each boat and quickly figured out which parents from <i>this</i> end of the table went with which kids from <i>that</i> end. While there, the other boats enticed us to stay just one more day with the promise of an evening of bowling together. The weather was still good, and we knew it might be the last time in a long time we would see these special people, so we were an easy sell. We spent a delightful day around the pool with friends and had a fun time bowling together in the evening.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UEch9_KzfJ8/U12q5puqQ_I/AAAAAAAAEHA/Q-xFX0Yoq7M/s1600/P1050375.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UEch9_KzfJ8/U12q5puqQ_I/AAAAAAAAEHA/Q-xFX0Yoq7M/s1600/P1050375.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iR-4MVOTiSE/U12q6Bm4laI/AAAAAAAAEHM/TDNyJPtj_JY/s1600/P1050381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iR-4MVOTiSE/U12q6Bm4laI/AAAAAAAAEHM/TDNyJPtj_JY/s1600/P1050381.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">March 31, our really-truly last day in Mazatlan, I went out to breakfast with my good friend Jen, from s/v Appa. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-siNdsGSxGz0/U12q7pmYrNI/AAAAAAAAEHU/LYP7RUGDtNM/s1600/P1050440.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-siNdsGSxGz0/U12q7pmYrNI/AAAAAAAAEHU/LYP7RUGDtNM/s1600/P1050440.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">Her family is finishing up a similar trip, heading back to Seattle about the same time (some of them sailing the boat back by way of Hawaii, others beating to windward the quick way, in an airplane.) They and several others we've met will end up within driving distance and we're already starting to toss around thoughts of summer sailing in the Puget Sound together.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">Despite the 36-hour passage ahead, we all managed to relax for the morning. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7qPzKseMFSk/U12q1ivMp7I/AAAAAAAAEGk/wki6p0JXHKw/s1600/P1050287.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7qPzKseMFSk/U12q1ivMp7I/AAAAAAAAEGk/wki6p0JXHKw/s1600/P1050287.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jdGqA0jqSQk/U12q2m1hw_I/AAAAAAAAEGs/f3-xkxoeu1w/s1600/P1050313.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jdGqA0jqSQk/U12q2m1hw_I/AAAAAAAAEGs/f3-xkxoeu1w/s1600/P1050313.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">We'd been ready to go for days, so we didn't need to do any last-minute running around. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cFmMpApfdpU/U12q8av_5AI/AAAAAAAAEHc/LYTE2N5eL_w/s1600/P1050454.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cFmMpApfdpU/U12q8av_5AI/AAAAAAAAEHc/LYTE2N5eL_w/s1600/P1050454.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;">In the afternoon, we said our goodbyes and motored out into the sea for the start of leg 2.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nzKB06gF4Dg/U12uC1EFTxI/AAAAAAAAEHo/ySrguHAexmE/s1600/P1050251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nzKB06gF4Dg/U12uC1EFTxI/AAAAAAAAEHo/ySrguHAexmE/s1600/P1050251.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-86996053421306931122014-04-29T06:00:00.000-07:002014-04-29T06:00:02.344-07:00Leg 1, part 2—Isla Isabel to Mazatlan<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zeiMNYkYtes/U12dtH0QwLI/AAAAAAAAD80/fwMlQyZaho0/s1600/P1040889.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zeiMNYkYtes/U12dtH0QwLI/AAAAAAAAD80/fwMlQyZaho0/s1600/P1040889.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: white; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">March
18-March 31</span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">We
did it! We'd visited Isla Isabel just after the new year when all the
booby birds were still mating. Then, a month or so later, we went
back during nesting season. Now, on our way back north to Mazatlan,
we took the detour back out to the island to see if we could arrive
in time to see some of the babies. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O6l9lNTAagw/U12guNRm4dI/AAAAAAAAD_4/YNSXt1qcIHE/s1600/P1050068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O6l9lNTAagw/U12guNRm4dI/AAAAAAAAD_4/YNSXt1qcIHE/s1600/P1050068.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v6DnQRgQy0I/U12d_98LMrI/AAAAAAAAD-4/bau8vjK9_VU/s1600/P1050148.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v6DnQRgQy0I/U12d_98LMrI/AAAAAAAAD-4/bau8vjK9_VU/s1600/P1050148.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6K6WcpXwbGU/U12gt623d3I/AAAAAAAAD_0/L3VNMxq2TiQ/s1600/P1050066.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6K6WcpXwbGU/U12gt623d3I/AAAAAAAAD_0/L3VNMxq2TiQ/s1600/P1050066.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">It was a little bit out of the way
but, as I told Bryan, if this trip was about efficiency, we wouldn't
be doing it aboard a sailboat!</span></span><br />
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px;">
</div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: auto; padding: 6px; text-align: center; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AHXX5QWOvQo/U12eYBTbSfI/AAAAAAAAD_I/jHTU84_zNNc/s1600/P1040838.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AHXX5QWOvQo/U12eYBTbSfI/AAAAAAAAD_I/jHTU84_zNNc/s1600/P1040838.JPG" height="400" style="cursor: move;" width="300" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;">Apron on, pencil in the hair, hands on the tiller...baker, writer, sailor: that's me!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">We
had a great run over from Chacala and were even able to sail quite a
bit of the 14 hour run. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">We left around 4:30 am and made good use of
the morning offshore breeze as well as the afternoon onshore flow. We
arrived just before sunset with enough time to dive in and check the
anchor. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-62oiNmudzrk/U12gphLtI-I/AAAAAAAAD_U/RJhdP-nM1-I/s1600/P1040847.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-62oiNmudzrk/U12gphLtI-I/AAAAAAAAD_U/RJhdP-nM1-I/s1600/P1040847.JPG" height="400" width="298" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">In the morning, we hung out on the boat and kept an eye out
for our friends from <i>CrazyLove </i>who were following us up to the
island. Their shorter waterline meant a little longer trip, but they
made it in just fine. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K4HbrjDvXuU/U12dpkriUoI/AAAAAAAAD8g/Bjkm2a_5UWs/s1600/P1040852.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K4HbrjDvXuU/U12dpkriUoI/AAAAAAAAD8g/Bjkm2a_5UWs/s1600/P1040852.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">We enjoyed a couple of delightful days in the
waters surrounding the island, snorkeling, reading, cooking, and
spending precious time with our dear friends, the last days we would
have together for quite some time. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lgAFfupluuw/U12dqVrCszI/AAAAAAAAD8o/5i0MPTNN4So/s1600/P1040874.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lgAFfupluuw/U12dqVrCszI/AAAAAAAAD8o/5i0MPTNN4So/s1600/P1040874.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bZ11dBWmato/U12dtTTIFUI/AAAAAAAAD84/6xqFrbzwI1M/s1600/P1040930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bZ11dBWmato/U12dtTTIFUI/AAAAAAAAD84/6xqFrbzwI1M/s1600/P1040930.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R0sHm0bH3KM/U12dtJBwvAI/AAAAAAAAD8w/XUVw2kKf-ak/s1600/P1040887.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R0sHm0bH3KM/U12dtJBwvAI/AAAAAAAAD8w/XUVw2kKf-ak/s1600/P1040887.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B_YmLIrTTqk/U12dwPpR5EI/AAAAAAAAD9I/jNlLfQquFP4/s1600/P1040993.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B_YmLIrTTqk/U12dwPpR5EI/AAAAAAAAD9I/jNlLfQquFP4/s1600/P1040993.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">We had dinner together their first
evening there and stayed up late our last evening together, sharing
drinks and reminiscing. We are so grateful for the vagaries of tide
and time that brought them into our life and for the chance to form a
lasting friendship in the recent months. They're stuck with us now! </span></span>
</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-73dIeW2z5nY/U12gxcokUMI/AAAAAAAAEAU/gtTG21Pqksc/s1600/P1050080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-73dIeW2z5nY/U12gxcokUMI/AAAAAAAAEAU/gtTG21Pqksc/s1600/P1050080.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;">I can just see the CrazyLove snorkelers!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">One
day, we got a call on the radio from a boat in the southern anchorage
asking if we'd heard the announcement about the tropical storm. I
hadn't been paying much attention to the radio chatter, so I hadn't
heard the official announcement or switched channels for more
details. I listened more closely during the afternoon, trying to pick
out any information about this unlikely happening; we were nowhere
near hurricane season. We watched the barometer carefully to see if a
low pressure system was moving in. Nothing seemed amiss, but it took
me a few hours to stop worrying.</span></div>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rt1wFkkT1jM/U12dxKjeoPI/AAAAAAAAD9Q/J0l4JSK3S2E/s1600/P1050070.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rt1wFkkT1jM/U12dxKjeoPI/AAAAAAAAD9Q/J0l4JSK3S2E/s1600/P1050070.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">(We
heard later that there <i>was</i> a severe wind event in the Sea of
Cortez with gusts up to 60 knots or so. Some friends of ours were in
the area and waited out the storm at anchor. They told a harrowing,
only-funny-in-hindsight story about looking out their hatch at 3am to
see their dinghy fly off their cabin top and go sailing away toward
sea. They performed a high-adrenaline rescue and managed to
re-anchor in the horrible conditions. I'm glad we missed it!) </span></span>
</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vnx-CTqmdrQ/U12dowBdZVI/AAAAAAAAD8Y/kCjMkbsgppg/s1600/P1040842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vnx-CTqmdrQ/U12dowBdZVI/AAAAAAAAD8Y/kCjMkbsgppg/s1600/P1040842.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;">Bryan sketches out our map of the trip home</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">The
day we left for Mazatlan, we finally went ashore for a baby booby
hunt. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w-hI8lN7ohM/U12gqnfb8XI/AAAAAAAAD_g/_850e4r5Fa8/s1600/P1050059.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w-hI8lN7ohM/U12gqnfb8XI/AAAAAAAAD_g/_850e4r5Fa8/s1600/P1050059.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TO5BEASSgeY/U12g1EuSZSI/AAAAAAAAEAw/kTQuOojRB-w/s1600/P1050137.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TO5BEASSgeY/U12g1EuSZSI/AAAAAAAAEAw/kTQuOojRB-w/s1600/P1050137.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4JBFTS59LFE/U12gqtGA6xI/AAAAAAAAD_c/aYmA0VNmeHo/s1600/P1050058.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4JBFTS59LFE/U12gqtGA6xI/AAAAAAAAD_c/aYmA0VNmeHo/s1600/P1050058.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">We spotted several babies in the nests on the beaches and hiked
inland for a few minutes, past a noisy colony of what I think were
ground-nesting terns. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_x-Y1EFnoA0/U12d_9PbMaI/AAAAAAAAD_E/1Mcyjg2M75k/s1600/P1050143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_x-Y1EFnoA0/U12d_9PbMaI/AAAAAAAAD_E/1Mcyjg2M75k/s1600/P1050143.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">Meira pointed out baby frigates </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cOwufMfr5cc/U12gxyo8VqI/AAAAAAAAEAc/qkmxVuSelDI/s1600/P1050108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cOwufMfr5cc/U12gxyo8VqI/AAAAAAAAEAc/qkmxVuSelDI/s1600/P1050108.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">and Hannah
hunted for lizards, as usual. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ucR-QilEr7Q/U12g0yLswbI/AAAAAAAAEAs/cJBH_Q-Dnc8/s1600/P1050134.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ucR-QilEr7Q/U12g0yLswbI/AAAAAAAAEAs/cJBH_Q-Dnc8/s1600/P1050134.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">But for some reason on this visit, my
eyes were drawn to the evidence of death. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TDeiPcwNz4E/U12d4_s8fwI/AAAAAAAAD-M/Tc4XbVfROlQ/s1600/P1050126.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TDeiPcwNz4E/U12d4_s8fwI/AAAAAAAAD-M/Tc4XbVfROlQ/s1600/P1050126.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">Half-eaten fish sat rotting
in the path. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QN6MV8H6hrM/U12dyVk1uDI/AAAAAAAAD9g/INfaTcsoqGM/s1600/P1050120.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QN6MV8H6hrM/U12dyVk1uDI/AAAAAAAAD9g/INfaTcsoqGM/s1600/P1050120.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">Lobster tails and crab claws cluttered the tide line.
Fully-grown birds and ill-fated babies lay sprawled over stones, all
the grace of life lost in the twisted pose of death. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XDD4ULxlpiY/U12d4bODs7I/AAAAAAAAD-A/yVjUHg82-QA/s1600/P1050125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XDD4ULxlpiY/U12d4bODs7I/AAAAAAAAD-A/yVjUHg82-QA/s1600/P1050125.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">We didn't stay
long enough to see the complete process, to watch the carcasses
provide food for other creatures or dissolve into the ground to
fertilize the soil. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7Hv4B-TkSdc/U12d1r46koI/AAAAAAAAD94/8pcIg5RMIgQ/s1600/P1050123.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7Hv4B-TkSdc/U12d1r46koI/AAAAAAAAD94/8pcIg5RMIgQ/s1600/P1050123.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">And I don't have anything new to say about the
“circle of life.” Simply that the contrast was striking, new life
hatching out all over, </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9IOcmp-cnO8/U12gzhKO8BI/AAAAAAAAEAk/dEIlRGshTPY/s1600/P1050131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9IOcmp-cnO8/U12gzhKO8BI/AAAAAAAAEAk/dEIlRGshTPY/s1600/P1050131.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">side-by-side with death. Every individual
fighting “tooth and claw” to keep from joining the ranks of those
who lost the battle for survival.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VnuXj6il_II/U12d7O66mcI/AAAAAAAAD-Y/k1AA1SUW06k/s1600/P1050127.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VnuXj6il_II/U12d7O66mcI/AAAAAAAAD-Y/k1AA1SUW06k/s1600/P1050127.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">In
the afternoon, we rowed over to meet some new neighbors who were
getting ready to head out for Mazatlan too. And then, with a last
wave goodbye to <i>CrazyLove</i>, we pulled up the anchor and headed
north.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BJB6rDT6vSY/U12gwt3U0rI/AAAAAAAAEAM/nb25JNaO3wA/s1600/P1050074.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BJB6rDT6vSY/U12gwt3U0rI/AAAAAAAAEAM/nb25JNaO3wA/s1600/P1050074.JPG" height="301" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">So
far, our conditions for going north had been great. Today, we
motorsailed in light winds and calm seas. We laughed ourselves silly
over the antics of a group of jumping manta rays and watched as they
flipped and spun through the air, their wings rippling, and then sat
out in the warm evening as the sun set in the blue, blue sky. When I
woke up in the morning, the blue was gone and we were motoring over
perfectly calm seas through an unexpected bit of thick fog. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IY3e2kZx1eU/U12k9xUqkhI/AAAAAAAAEBI/5Ro3QzISylI/s1600/P1050154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IY3e2kZx1eU/U12k9xUqkhI/AAAAAAAAEBI/5Ro3QzISylI/s1600/P1050154.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: white;">We picked up a hitchhiker, this brown booby up on the spreaders. A closer look revealed why he had stopped. His right foot hung dangling, useless.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HAMaCtl75EU/U12k4it_YfI/AAAAAAAAEBA/IwIok-dC1eU/s1600/P1050155.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HAMaCtl75EU/U12k4it_YfI/AAAAAAAAEBA/IwIok-dC1eU/s1600/P1050155.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: white;">After a few minutes on the spreaders, he took off, only to land awkwardly on our sidedeck. Bryan put on his heavy and gloves and went forward to extricate him from the docklines. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yuUzxvuYcA4/U12pPtZoq-I/AAAAAAAAEBc/TV8RupkUvl4/s1600/P1050158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yuUzxvuYcA4/U12pPtZoq-I/AAAAAAAAEBc/TV8RupkUvl4/s1600/P1050158.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: white;">The bird settled in for a few more minutes of rest on the dinghy and we were just planning how to get help when we got to Mazatlan when he flew off, trailing his broken leg behind. We've seen other birds on this trip make do with just one good leg, so we can imagine that he'll find a way to cope. But the images from Isabel linger and I choose to face the hard truths that color the darker side of nature's beauty.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I981mHhnBAo/U12k9_VWEUI/AAAAAAAAEBM/YG9EnEoWwHE/s1600/P1050162.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I981mHhnBAo/U12k9_VWEUI/AAAAAAAAEBM/YG9EnEoWwHE/s1600/P1050162.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">Bryan
stayed up past the end of his watch to see us through it safely. I
listened on the VHF for any word of traffic exiting the commercial
harbor (all vessels are required to obtain permission before entering
or exiting.) We took the long way around the islands near the city,
safely out of the way of harbor traffic or off-lying rocks. And just
before we needed to make the turn toward the small boat harbor at the
north end of the city, the fog lifted and we were able to see our way
clearly into the marina.</span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">We
pulled into the same marina where we'd spent Christmas. We motored
straight to the fuel dock and, while Bryan filled up our tanks, I
went up to the office to see if they had any availability for us.
They were pretty full, but we're small and they found us a slip. We
gave high fives all around for a safe completion of Leg 1, then
silly, off-balance “foot-fives” because, as one of the girls
reminded us, it was the end of the leg. It's a good thing puns don't
weigh anything; I think this family would sink the boat.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nw6Vmbj92T8/U12qp3GJNNI/AAAAAAAAEFM/ARrOqe-obHM/s1600/P1050170.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nw6Vmbj92T8/U12qp3GJNNI/AAAAAAAAEFM/ARrOqe-obHM/s1600/P1050170.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</div>
Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-59817991257931181882014-04-28T06:00:00.000-07:002014-04-28T13:57:33.677-07:00Leg 1, Intermission—Chacala<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IBTGSbBn0z4/U12YnAxPWCI/AAAAAAAAD64/i-Rlze-wDp8/s1600/P1040829.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IBTGSbBn0z4/U12YnAxPWCI/AAAAAAAAD64/i-Rlze-wDp8/s1600/P1040829.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">March
14-March 17</span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">Our
first afternoon in Chacala, the girls spotted <i>Sandollar</i> a
kid-boat we'd met in La Cruz. They called over on the radio only to
find out that <i>Sandollar</i> planned to leave the next morning. The
kids quickly wangled a movie evening together and we made a big batch
of popcorn and washed out a dishpan to transport it to the other
boat. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jDXDWZGdkl0/U12Z4iJ0A-I/AAAAAAAAD7c/4jHcDYk9PKg/s1600/P1040775.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jDXDWZGdkl0/U12Z4iJ0A-I/AAAAAAAAD7c/4jHcDYk9PKg/s1600/P1040775.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">The girls rowed Bryan and me to shore so we could catch up on
the internets and then rowed themselves over to <i>Sandollar</i> for
the evening. We headed straight for Chac Mool and greeted our old
friends, Jorge and Israel. In our transient life, it's nice to settle
into a few old routines. (One day in La Cruz, Bryan's phone suggested
unprompted that Chac Mool was “only an hour and 12 minutes away.”
Apparently it thought we were neglecting our important Chac Mool
coffee-drinking duties!) We sat with Ron and Liz, some cruisers we'd
met in La Cruz. When we were ready to head back, we called the girls
on the VHF and then walked down to the dinghy landing, watching the
bay as they rowed across, one at the oars, the other manning the 2000
lumens spotlight.</span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">As
we arrived back at our boat, we could see another small sailboat
pulling in to the other side of the bay. We knew <i>CrazyLove</i> was
following us up at some point, and figured there wasn't anyone else
out there with a mast that short. So we rowed over close enough to
holler some anchoring tips about who was anchored bow and stern and
who would swing around when the tide changed and then got out of
their way while they expertly dropped their own anchors. </span></span>
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JemUo579PIM/U12Yi12OYaI/AAAAAAAAD6Y/Nficfdb1kFo/s1600/P1040782.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JemUo579PIM/U12Yi12OYaI/AAAAAAAAD6Y/Nficfdb1kFo/s1600/P1040782.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">They'd
had an easy trip up, so were still up for a short visit. We took over
some of our precious chocolate stash and they reciprocated by sharing
the last of their unique vanilla tequila. </span></span>
</span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">The
next morning, I improvised bread pudding out of stale hot dog buns,
apples, and shelf-stable cream (one of my favorite Mexican products!)
I read aloud while the girls tidied and Meira took the opportunity to
pack away a bunch of things she didn't think she'd need on the trip
north. When we're out in big seas, the less stuff there is falling
around the cabin, the better. Bryan worked on some boat projects and
I cooked up the beans I'd soaked on the way to Chacala, turning them
into bean dip for lunch and a delicious curry dinner we shared with
<i>CrazyLove</i>. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hIivPFHSRcE/U12YmX-B-II/AAAAAAAAD6w/L2ESMhfq4Ko/s1600/P1040795.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hIivPFHSRcE/U12YmX-B-II/AAAAAAAAD6w/L2ESMhfq4Ko/s1600/P1040795.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">In the evening, all the adults rowed into shore for
Chac Mool's weekly salsa night. We sat, feet in the sand, listening
to the great live music and plotting a hike for the next day. </span></span>
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rNbJ4QVggt8/U12YkP2LPvI/AAAAAAAAD6o/wXlevLWVCwQ/s1600/P1040792.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rNbJ4QVggt8/U12YkP2LPvI/AAAAAAAAD6o/wXlevLWVCwQ/s1600/P1040792.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-align: start;">The girls and I stayed on the boat while Bryan went for the hike with </span><i style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-align: start;">CrazyLove </i><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-align: start;">and Ron and Liz from </span><i style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-align: start;">Oleana</i><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-align: start;">. It was a bit of an adventure, with 2 or 3 wrong turns, a goat farm and some wild dogs.</span></span></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x0nRF5MtEU0/U12Z48bLJsI/AAAAAAAAD7k/9LjFfegi-Fs/s1600/P1040799.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x0nRF5MtEU0/U12Z48bLJsI/AAAAAAAAD7k/9LjFfegi-Fs/s1600/P1040799.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-47L0xrSlw0k/U12Z5RG7ATI/AAAAAAAAD7o/T48njUkWftI/s1600/P1040802.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-47L0xrSlw0k/U12Z5RG7ATI/AAAAAAAAD7o/T48njUkWftI/s1600/P1040802.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-19NKkb6lNsc/U12Z6f8B-sI/AAAAAAAAD70/9xLA1ShlriA/s1600/P1040811.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-19NKkb6lNsc/U12Z6f8B-sI/AAAAAAAAD70/9xLA1ShlriA/s1600/P1040811.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WmzE4qcAR68/U12Z7-2OSdI/AAAAAAAAD78/jHD7DzqfbFY/s1600/P1040815.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WmzE4qcAR68/U12Z7-2OSdI/AAAAAAAAD78/jHD7DzqfbFY/s1600/P1040815.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UhV9UmijUIE/U12Z8bjWM-I/AAAAAAAAD8A/0G-JfU31xXM/s1600/P1040826.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UhV9UmijUIE/U12Z8bjWM-I/AAAAAAAAD8A/0G-JfU31xXM/s1600/P1040826.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"> Bryan showed up on the boat with reports of Chac Mool's
terminal brownie shortage. Liz had tried unsuccessfully twice now to
order a brownie sundae. “Maybe,” he suggested slyly, “</span><i style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">someone
</i><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">could make some brownies.” I whipped some together and tossed
them in the oven. That evening, before we went to town, Bryan and I
rowed across the anchorage to say hi to </span><i style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">Princess del Mar.</i><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"> We'd
met Werner and his crew-member, Kai, early into our time in Mexico,
but hadn't seen the boat since. Werner's daughter, Carina, had joined
him in La Paz and they'd spent the intervening months in the Sea of
Cortez. They were heading out the next day for Bahia Banderas in
preparation for the Puddle Jump to the South Pacific. We were glad
we'd caught up with them first!</span></span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ron
and Liz, David and Carolyn, and all the <i>LiLo</i> crew went across
the street to Tres Mar, home of Chacla's best burgers and posole.
While we were there, Werner and Carina came in and we pulled up an
extra table so they could join us. We laughed and told sailing
stories and eventually moved across the street to Chac Mool for DIY
brownie sundaes. Of course, <i>now, </i>they said, they had brownies.
But they didn't mind at all that we'd brought out own and they
provided plenty of ice cream all around. </span></span>
</span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">March
17 was our last day in Chacala. After the unpleasant discovery of a
corrupt hard drive on our computer, we spent most of the day aboard
trying to get it working again. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X7npSrIrn4w/U12Z8w-kc0I/AAAAAAAAD8M/Jm52dE7Ew6I/s1600/P1040833.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X7npSrIrn4w/U12Z8w-kc0I/AAAAAAAAD8M/Jm52dE7Ew6I/s1600/P1040833.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">We finally gave up and rowed in for a
last-minute necessities—apples, tortillas, and TP. </span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6B3074X56YM/U12YnYdJyoI/AAAAAAAAD68/j1fRj_wJyQE/s1600/P1040831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6B3074X56YM/U12YnYdJyoI/AAAAAAAAD68/j1fRj_wJyQE/s1600/P1040831.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;">There's no mistaking what this sign prohibits</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">The power in
town had been out all day. Some stores and restaurants had
generators, but others were dark. When we stopped for tacos at our
favorite taco stand, the cook hadn't been able to use her blender to
make the traditional pureed salsas and she apologized for the lack
with a shrug at the darkened bulbs. “Who knows why?” she said. At
the tienda across the street, we shopped by candlelight, poking into
dark corners to find what we needed. As we were paying our bill, the
power came back on. We headed over to Chac Mool for old time's sake
and ordered drinks while we checked the weather and our bank accounts.
We discovered a several thousand dollar fraud on one of our accounts.
Thankfully, we'd just finished the six-week-long process of resolving
a fraud on our other account and could once again access the cash in
that one. We sent a note to the bank to shut this one down and start
the investigation and then said goodbye to Jorge and Israel, servers
who had become our friends. One last time, we walked back in the dark
to the dinghy beach. One last time, rowed around the familiar rocks
to our boat for a few hours of rest before the passage to Isla
Isabel.</span></span></div>
Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-57745608876727072892014-04-27T16:49:00.003-07:002014-04-27T16:49:59.541-07:00 Leg 1, part 1—Yelapa to Chacala<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-elt7RyVS1pw/U12CAWqNk8I/AAAAAAAAD2U/TC8QyjpBdTo/s1600/P1040507.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-elt7RyVS1pw/U12CAWqNk8I/AAAAAAAAD2U/TC8QyjpBdTo/s1600/P1040507.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
I have so many stories to tell about our time in La Cruz and so
many memories of people we met and places we went during our month in
Banderas Bay. But I was too busy having fun and working on other
writing projects to do much blogging while we were there and just as
I was getting back to it, our computer died. It took several days to
get my notes off the failing hard drive, and weeks to get a system up
and running again. So instead of playing catch-up all the way up the
coast and feeling a month behind the whole time, I'm going to write
about La Cruz as I get around to it and intersperse some flashbacks
into my current events. I'll be sure to make it obvious what's what.
Here's a post about the first few days of our journey north.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2kSw03Hwk1o/U12BzXhcRYI/AAAAAAAAD2M/yiwz_SIIs3g/s1600/P1040497.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2kSw03Hwk1o/U12BzXhcRYI/AAAAAAAAD2M/yiwz_SIIs3g/s1600/P1040497.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">March
11-March 14</span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">We
started the journey back home by heading south. No, I'm not a
terrible navigator. We wanted to cross Banderas Bay to the town of
Yelapa before we turned around for the homeward journey. Friends took
pictures of us by our boat before we left La Cruz, in a pose quite
reminiscent of one from our first Bon Voyage party. </span><br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LqXDoZM5hWQ/U12BZ5mpuqI/AAAAAAAAD2E/AZ8-ddai4KY/s1600/P1040486.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LqXDoZM5hWQ/U12BZ5mpuqI/AAAAAAAAD2E/AZ8-ddai4KY/s1600/P1040486.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">We motored around
to the fuel dock, waving at friends on every dock along the way and,
as we finally pulled out through the breakwater, we glanced back to
see more friends up on the high rock wall, waving and taking
pictures.</span><br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tmBQesgIIqk/U12BXVq8AcI/AAAAAAAAD10/cgfLzqLPqao/s1600/P1040489.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tmBQesgIIqk/U12BXVq8AcI/AAAAAAAAD10/cgfLzqLPqao/s1600/P1040489.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">We
had a nice sail in the afternoon breeze most of the way across to
Yelapa, and picked up a mooring in the deep bay just after sunset.
We'd heard it was possible to anchor there, but that the best
anchoring space had been taken over by mooring buoys run by the local
restaurants. </span>
</span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The
next morning, a panga came racing over to us. The paint on the side
identified the driver as being from “Domingo's Restaurant—London,
Paris, Yelapa.” He called across, “I have a reservation for
someone who is coming in to use this mooring, but you can move to
another one, over here!” We obediently loosed our lines and
followed him to the indicated mooring. He tied us up and said to call
him on the radio when we were ready for a ride to shore. We never
found out if he really owned both moorings or if he had just poached
us from another restaurant's buoy. The “reservation” never
arrived. I think they might be as real as the Domingo's in London or
Paris.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;">We'd
heard there were two waterfalls in the area, one a little closer and
the other a little farther away. We set off to shore in search of the
farther away one. Everyone we asked for directions seemed to be in
cahoots with the horse-rental place. There is no road access for cars
to get to Yelapa so all tranportation there is on ATV or horseback.
We were told it was much to far away to walk. We set off anyway,
determined. </span></div>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_2_4mpFr-oA/U12CAoTxFUI/AAAAAAAAD2Y/2hXer66XF8c/s1600/P1040504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_2_4mpFr-oA/U12CAoTxFUI/AAAAAAAAD2Y/2hXer66XF8c/s1600/P1040504.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">It took a couple of tries to find the right set of stairs
to get from the beach up to the main road. By the time we did, my
legs had started shaking, as if I'd just climbed down a skyscraper. I
sat to rest and get some water in case I was dealing with
dehydration, and then we went on, a little less determinedly. (I've
since wondered if we run short on electrolytes, especially during the
times we drink desalinated water. Who knows?) We wandered through the
small streets of the town and into the local church. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8LJav431sBU/U12EGZq1COI/AAAAAAAAD3w/qthST8x08G0/s1600/P1040552.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8LJav431sBU/U12EGZq1COI/AAAAAAAAD3w/qthST8x08G0/s1600/P1040552.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-h3Ssst0bwlE/U12EU2r5CSI/AAAAAAAAD34/B4cWktXu3hI/s1600/P1040567.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-h3Ssst0bwlE/U12EU2r5CSI/AAAAAAAAD34/B4cWktXu3hI/s1600/P1040567.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The cupola over
the dais was only half there, the upper half, a gaping round opening
to the sky. As we stood, gaping a bit ourselves, a local man came
over and filled us in. The town was rebuilding the dome but, as all
the the supplies have to be brought by boat or on horseback, it was
taking a long time. When asked, he too suggested taking a horse to
the far away waterfall. We followed his directions though to the
nearer one, around the back of the church and down the path along the
riverbank. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CEOx2Mcasx4/U12CwARmiPI/AAAAAAAAD24/4QAykNOtGFI/s1600/P1040515.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CEOx2Mcasx4/U12CwARmiPI/AAAAAAAAD24/4QAykNOtGFI/s1600/P1040515.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gfptJwYFjzk/U12CoVi0pHI/AAAAAAAAD2o/G2lHmKBFUcw/s1600/P1040509.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gfptJwYFjzk/U12CoVi0pHI/AAAAAAAAD2o/G2lHmKBFUcw/s1600/P1040509.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></span></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hmuiB0lEZmY/U12CvAI5n6I/AAAAAAAAD2w/pC6ogS__TdI/s1600/P1040511.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hmuiB0lEZmY/U12CvAI5n6I/AAAAAAAAD2w/pC6ogS__TdI/s1600/P1040511.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Homes and other structures clung to the hillside and the
evidence of creativity stood out in the mosaic retaining walls.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pRIG7khngd0/U12DvF0RTTI/AAAAAAAAD3o/wkOny5FITZg/s1600/P1040548.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pRIG7khngd0/U12DvF0RTTI/AAAAAAAAD3o/wkOny5FITZg/s1600/P1040548.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The
refreshing mist of the waterfall drifted around a bend in the path to
meet us. We walked through an arch, past shelves of chintzy
souvenirs, and emerged into a sunlit clearing. The girls climbed up
on a good pondering rock and enjoyed a snack in the sun. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Tvoq0TyOo2E/U12DJkc8eaI/AAAAAAAAD3Q/HpsESEeAFmY/s1600/P1040539.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Tvoq0TyOo2E/U12DJkc8eaI/AAAAAAAAD3Q/HpsESEeAFmY/s1600/P1040539.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">I sat on the
edge of the pool, dipping a tentative toe in now and again. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nUr-wTKwsL8/U12UULBY41I/AAAAAAAAD5Q/uDb2BS7hVao/s1600/P1040518.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nUr-wTKwsL8/U12UULBY41I/AAAAAAAAD5Q/uDb2BS7hVao/s1600/P1040518.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Bryan
took an exploratory meander up the path past the waterfall. By the
time he came back, we'd been joined by other visitors. We left them
to enjoy the waterfall alone and walked back through town and up a
different river to find some lunch. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N7dhyLZdADA/U12DW9_PMLI/AAAAAAAAD3Y/4I06iLy0NEc/s1600/P1040545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N7dhyLZdADA/U12DW9_PMLI/AAAAAAAAD3Y/4I06iLy0NEc/s1600/P1040545.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l_PEgzIFKUk/U12DkGnCGKI/AAAAAAAAD3g/SxyrYk_1xLw/s1600/P1040546.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l_PEgzIFKUk/U12DkGnCGKI/AAAAAAAAD3g/SxyrYk_1xLw/s1600/P1040546.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lWBihYeF1y8/U12UU9xI-CI/AAAAAAAAD5Y/41RRHSLXFQ8/s1600/P1040563.JPG" height="300" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here the girls are planning a coded encouragement system for the trip home</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">We'd seen flyers for Manguito's
Restaurant and sings pointing us 15 minutes up river. We walked the
slender dirt path, several times shifting over to let a horse pass
by. The signs pointed us across a pedestrian overpass to the other
side of the river. As we crossed, I looked back through the metal
supports at 2 boys playing video games on laptops. Near their open
patio stood a patient donkey tied to a tree. The wide riverbed gave
proof of the power of the rainy season to change the landscape. But
today, the river was a trickle, a stream winding down the path of
least resistance to the sea. Local kids made good use of the dry
portion of the riverbed and jumped enthusiastically on a rusty
trampoline set on the flat dirt.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4h-e7w4QPzA/U12E3Kuz6TI/AAAAAAAAD4I/ydVJjslHcnc/s1600/P1040578.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4h-e7w4QPzA/U12E3Kuz6TI/AAAAAAAAD4I/ydVJjslHcnc/s1600/P1040578.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Our
family's natural eating schedule doesn't follow the locals' typical
routine. We've stopped trying to follow the traveler's adage about
only eating at places with lots of locals. Often, and today this was
the case, we are the only diners in a restaurant. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-byfIygBxWTU/U12FEfU6ypI/AAAAAAAAD4Q/O7gwNmghO68/s1600/P1040587.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-byfIygBxWTU/U12FEfU6ypI/AAAAAAAAD4Q/O7gwNmghO68/s1600/P1040587.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The food was good
and the service attentive. Bryan found a map of the area on the wall
and took a photo for later reference. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BMTnfxyxn0c/U12UVPxvtiI/AAAAAAAAD5c/xQx_AZGJDPM/s1600/P1040582.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BMTnfxyxn0c/U12UVPxvtiI/AAAAAAAAD5c/xQx_AZGJDPM/s1600/P1040582.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">As we pushed back from the
table to go, Bryan stopped us. “This is the farthest south you will
be in Mexico on this trip.” My thoughts and emotions swirled.
Pride, reluctance, eagerness, gratefulness. Gratefulness won.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sFsgqfcwvk0/U12UW8YPC4I/AAAAAAAAD5o/qyk8zGu-jwA/s1600/P1040592.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sFsgqfcwvk0/U12UW8YPC4I/AAAAAAAAD5o/qyk8zGu-jwA/s1600/P1040592.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">We
walked back on the east bank of the river stopping to chat with an
acquaintance we'd met in La Cruz. Should I stop to tell the story
here? Why not?!</span><br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-trjSFRhCLVg/U12F347r97I/AAAAAAAAD4c/OG-LCfzzb4Y/s1600/P1040598.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-trjSFRhCLVg/U12F347r97I/AAAAAAAAD4c/OG-LCfzzb4Y/s1600/P1040598.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
</div>
<div style="font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>One
of our first evenings in La Cruz, we went with a bunch of friends to
listen to some jazz at a local restaurant. The evening was utterly
pleasant and the music understated and excellent. I especially
appreciated the pianist, Jerome. Apparently Hannah did too, because
she went up to him afterward and chatted a bit, a fact I didn't find
out until later. </i></span>
</span></div>
<div style="font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><i>Perhaps
a week or so after that evening, the girls decided to take Rover out
for a row in the anchorage. Bryan and I thought it was a great plan
and we made sure they had their life jackets and the handheld VHF and
sent them off for a little adventure. We hadn't considered how much
the afternoon wind affects the anchorage. As they left the
breakwater, there was a mild beam wind and they decided it was safe
to row on out. Unfortunately, while they were out, the wind shifted
and freshened and started blowing them away from the marina, out to
open water. They turned to head back in, but couldn't make way toward
the breakwater. Meira grabbed the handheld and called some friends in
the anchorage until one of them answered. Jerome, anchored out in his
beautiful Kind of Blue spotted them struggling and invited them
alongside, then aboard to use his more powerful radio to call us. By
the time we heard from them, they'd already arranged a tow back to
LiLo and were starting to come down from the rush of the mini-crisis.
They'd felt a little overwhelmed, but Jerome reported back later how
impressed he was at their calm competence in the face of adversity.
Once again, we were thankful for the community of cruisers.</i></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YgFRdwKwNHA/U12V2TgnsTI/AAAAAAAAD50/2l3CWziYdZI/s1600/P1040606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YgFRdwKwNHA/U12V2TgnsTI/AAAAAAAAD50/2l3CWziYdZI/s1600/P1040606.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;">I
wish we had video of one of the moments from the walk back from
Manguito's. A couple of young boys, maybe 4 and 7, came walking along
from a side path. The younger one held out his hand like a miniature
traffic cop. “Alto!” he said. “Stop! The cow is coming.” Sure
enough, an older man was stepping across from the same side-path,
leading an angular bull with a frayed rope. Our protector stood
between us and the bull until the Yelapa traffic jam had cleared and
then he ran off with his friend, done with his work, back at play.</span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gr040WixMIY/U12V2y4cpJI/AAAAAAAAD58/FaEAwgXcu5Y/s1600/P1040581.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gr040WixMIY/U12V2y4cpJI/AAAAAAAAD58/FaEAwgXcu5Y/s1600/P1040581.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></span></a></div>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">We
found our way back to the beach and waited a few minutes for the
water taxi.We'd been warned that they stop running when the
restaurants shut down, but we caught them just in time.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Tj7XuLpj6HQ/U12BX1R85KI/AAAAAAAAD18/HkAPUuVC7-4/s1600/P1040493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Tj7XuLpj6HQ/U12BX1R85KI/AAAAAAAAD18/HkAPUuVC7-4/s1600/P1040493.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
</div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The
next day, Bryan headed back in for one more try at the faraway
waterfall. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D3tQl8hNzTA/U12GX0aX1jI/AAAAAAAAD4s/xVCV2ouIO6Q/s1600/P1040658.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D3tQl8hNzTA/U12GX0aX1jI/AAAAAAAAD4s/xVCV2ouIO6Q/s1600/P1040658.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HPzlh1nqxn8/U12GOTvhtnI/AAAAAAAAD4k/SsJiemup0iY/s1600/P1040616.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HPzlh1nqxn8/U12GOTvhtnI/AAAAAAAAD4k/SsJiemup0iY/s1600/P1040616.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">He made it all the way there (yes, even without a horse:-) </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fa_R5QDPuuk/U12DGhg4VrI/AAAAAAAAD3A/7IrftlczRhE/s1600/P1040526.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fa_R5QDPuuk/U12DGhg4VrI/AAAAAAAAD3A/7IrftlczRhE/s1600/P1040526.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></span></a></div>
<br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">and back to the boat in time for us to leave for Las Tres Marietas,
bringing with him some amazing grilled chicken for a
<i>CrazyLove</i>-inspired meal. (David and Carolyn always try to pick
up an easy dinner for their first evening out on passage. We think
that's a fabulous tradition and have decided to adopt it ourselves!)
We came in just before sunset and I was happy to see one of my
theories about our trip back prove correct. The winds and the
currents will be against us on the way back, yes. But I think many
other things will be less stressful, especially for me. Besides
provisioning, cooking, homeschooling, and writing, (Bryan would like
to add “eye candy” to my list of assigned roles) my main jobs
aboard are navigating, weather forecasting, passage planning, and
communications. Since we left Astoria on the way down, we've been
sailing in completely unfamiliar waters. And since we left San Diego,
weather reports have been hard to come by, charts re unreliable, and
communications in a foreign language. On the way back, we will ease
our way back to accurate charts, more predictable weather, and easier
communications. And we will be returning to many familiar ports along
the way. Our first day at Las Tres Marietas, I worried about running
aground or hitting a rock. Our guide books warned of rocks and reefs
around the islands and detailed the safe approach, but our charts
showed rocks in that exact part of the bay. I made the (correct, as
it turns out) educated guess to trust the guide books rather than our
chart. The guide books all agreed with each other and the chart had
proven unreliable in this area in the past. But it was still a tense
approach. This time, I sat without a worry as Bryan steered us in a
dropped the anchor, </span>
</span></div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The
next morning, I looked to him for our plans for the day. He'd
considered staying at the island for a day of snorkeling. But the
visibility was poor and the tour boats had already started to arrive.
We hauled up the anchor and headed off for Chacala. The weather was
perfect and the seas quite calm. We spotted a sea turtle and caught 2
skipjack tuna, one right after the other. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-88tO2kh_KcE/U12WrWodNjI/AAAAAAAAD6E/wkJkoBh_xsg/s1600/P1040754.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-88tO2kh_KcE/U12WrWodNjI/AAAAAAAAD6E/wkJkoBh_xsg/s1600/P1040754.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">I did the dishes, soaked
some beans and experimented with cold-brewed coffee, finally getting
the hang of relaxing while at sea. The girls are pitching in on
watches more and I'm less concerned about doing my “fair share.”
Especially on shorter day hops, Bryan doesn't mind taking more of the
actual sailing duties and it leaves me free to rest, write, or get
stuff done like dishes or cooking that improve morale all around.
Around mid-afternoon, we dropped anchor in “our” corner of
Chacala's little bay. Several friends' boats were in the bay already
and we were looking forward to a few last days here in one of our
favorite Mexican destinations.</span><br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9qFX6Bx2VCg/U12HmlLGBxI/AAAAAAAAD44/-JfqLiDKIMo/s1600/P1040713.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9qFX6Bx2VCg/U12HmlLGBxI/AAAAAAAAD44/-JfqLiDKIMo/s1600/P1040713.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WFNnCwcDde8/U12H9-gfeNI/AAAAAAAAD5A/-QEWlcrj4hQ/s1600/P1040714.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WFNnCwcDde8/U12H9-gfeNI/AAAAAAAAD5A/-QEWlcrj4hQ/s1600/P1040714.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nUr-wTKwsL8/U12UULBY41I/AAAAAAAAD5Q/uDb2BS7hVao/s1600/P1040518.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: white; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<br />Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-43490486856251986662014-03-31T11:06:00.000-07:002014-03-31T11:06:40.765-07:00Legs<div dir="ltr">
It's time. Hurricane season is coming, so all the cruisers are making their move. Some of our friends are headed south to El Salvador, others are making the jump to the South Pacific or heading back north via the long passage to Hawaii. And we are heading north. Against the prevailing winds and currents, against prevailing opinion, we're going to be "bashing" all the way home.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Bryan hypothesized that it was the delivery captains who started calling this route "the bash" in hopes of drumming up more business from fearful sailors and, just a couple of weeks ago, we heard a story that indicates he might not be too far off the mark. Everything we've heard from people who've actually done the trip gives us more confidence that our plan is sound. We've dealt with headwinds and currents, high winds and big seas before. We know the boat can handle it (maybe even better than the crew). And we have plenty of time to wait for good weather to make the trip as easy as possible. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Still, we've been a little apprehensive about the many, many miles we need to cover and all the potentially difficult capes to round. So we've been trying to break the trip up into manageable chunks. We plotted out 13 legs of 200 miles, roughly 48 hours. Some legs are a little bit long--Bahia Tortugas to Ensenada is almost 300. Others are significantly shorter--Astoria to St. Helens will be a breeze at +/- 70 miles.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Then, to help us visualize our plan, Bryan drew it on the wall.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-teYTFCHkg3M/UzmiBcdw-rI/AAAAAAAAD1U/tB6ngOhYHSk/s1600/20140328_084909.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-teYTFCHkg3M/UzmiBcdw-rI/AAAAAAAAD1U/tB6ngOhYHSk/s640/20140328_084909.jpg" height="480" width="640" /> </a> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The map is stylized, and not quite to scale. But it gives us a beautiful representation of where we've been and where we're going.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We plan to stop in between most of these ports along the way. And we wouldn't be surprised if we missed one or more of these in favor of another port that ended up more convenient or attractive in the moment. But this helps us to pace ourselves and watch our progress. The girls even made a tiny boat symbol as well as a (very much not-to-scale) house on the other end. On our passage from Isla Isabel to Mazatlan, the last portion of our first leg, I glanced up and more than once, saw that the little boat had been moved a little closer to our destination dot.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Many people opt to head back to the Pacific NW via Hawaii. The winds and currents are often much easier on boat and crew, though of course, there are more miles to cover. But we have pretty limited water and fuel supplies and don't think that is a safe option for us. Besides, we made friends in many ports along the way and are really looking forward to visiting them again on the way back. And we expect to meet up with family a time or 2 along the way too, something that wouldn't be at all feasible in the middle of the Pacific.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We've added some fuel tanks on deck for the long days of motoring and have put in a stock of good watch snacks to entice the whole crew to be excited about watches. We have a new watch schedule that makes better use of the energy of the young people we have aboard. And, since we expect the "bash" to be difficult, every day in which we can sail, every day that's not miserable, feels like a win. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Leg 1-Yelapa to Mazatlan-188 miles (Already done! It was a beautiful trip and we even were able to sail for much of it!)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Leg 2-Mazatlan to Cabo San Lucas- 192 miles</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Leg 3-Cabo to Bahia Magdalena- 170 miles</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Leg 4-Bahia Magdalena to Bahia Tortugas- 253 miles</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Leg 5-Bahia Tortugas to Ensenada- 281 miles Here we may detour out to Isla Guadalupe, the westernmost point in Mexico. It would add about 100 miles, about 24 hours to our journey, but if the winds are up, it would be considerably more comfortable to reach out and back again instead of beating into the wind and waves on a stubborn rhumb-line course.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Leg 6-Ensenada to San Diego-62 miles!!!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-YfRPvnuHVDU/UzmiEHdvRBI/AAAAAAAAD1k/tn62KNtruHw/s1600/20140328_084845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-YfRPvnuHVDU/UzmiEHdvRBI/AAAAAAAAD1k/tn62KNtruHw/s640/20140328_084845.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Leg 7-San Diego to San Miguel Island- 195 miles</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Leg 8-San Miguel to Monterey- 180 miles</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Leg 9- Monterey to San Francisco- 88 miles</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Leg 10-San Francisco to Eureka- 223 miles</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Leg 11-Eureka to Bandon- 213 miles</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Leg 12-Bandon to Astoria- 124 miles</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Leg 13- Astoria to St. Helens-68 miles</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
If all my numbers are accurate (I'm off the boat and away from my charts, so I'm not double checking) that's <b>2237 miles. </b>That number seems impossible. But we plan to leave this afternoon for the first part of Leg 2, 150 miles or so across to the Baja peninsula. Before I know it, we'll be halfway...then 3/4s...then home.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-eRZyn9Gf6KQ/UzmiCup3FpI/AAAAAAAAD1c/PjelMd-esvI/s1600/20140328_084854.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-eRZyn9Gf6KQ/UzmiCup3FpI/AAAAAAAAD1c/PjelMd-esvI/s640/20140328_084854.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-54238514397611760642014-03-27T09:37:00.001-07:002014-03-27T12:43:55.146-07:00La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, Take TwoOur first trip to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, we spent a lot of our time at the La Cruz Inn, where Michele and Trina stayed. We didn’t really explore the town and felt completely overwhelmed by the calendar of cruisers’ events we were handed when we checked into the marina. But this time around, we knew we’d be in town for a week or 2…or 3 or 4. <br />
So our goal for our first full day in La Cruz was to walk around and see what we could see. We ran into David and Carolyn first thing, and took off for town together. <br />
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-JD2Nz38jnNM/UzRTjPTnFGI/AAAAAAAADxg/G5B6ZhbKmTo/s1600-h/10-IMG_2426_thumb12.jpg"><img alt="10-IMG_2426_thumb1" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-CPXfq3FOtHE/UzRTj9whsmI/AAAAAAAADxo/uKJ4soCQKvk/10-IMG_2426_thumb1_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="480" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="10-IMG_2426_thumb1" width="640" /></a><br />
They’d only been in town a day when we pulled into the small boat dock just a few slips away from CrazyLove (and right next to our mutual friend Will from Thallasea. Remember Will and his errant dinghy? Remember Will and the lovely Christmas celebration?) But they’d already scoped out a cheap taco stand that sold rotisserie chickens and fried taquitos.<br />
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-2CttV4HQwwQ/UzRTksoBvwI/AAAAAAAADxw/-9ETcEk64yM/s1600-h/P1030597_thumb12.jpg"><img alt="P1030597_thumb1" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-o9GrNuCN3J4/UzRTlSHTTQI/AAAAAAAADx4/4xYFCUvTKfI/P1030597_thumb1_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="480" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="P1030597_thumb1" width="640" /></a><br />
We walked through town, past the roundabout with the town’s eponymous cross (made of Hunacaxtle wood), and up to <em>Tu Pollo</em> on the corner of the main highway.<br />
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-DbVYEHE3SJw/UzRTmPaHM8I/AAAAAAAADyA/KrbCouB7FJ8/s1600-h/02-P1030600_thumb22.jpg"><img alt="02-P1030600_thumb2" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-efD7xV8DIHA/UzRTm7ul6yI/AAAAAAAADyI/tb0kpleWmUM/02-P1030600_thumb2_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="480" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="02-P1030600_thumb2" width="640" /></a><br />
<div align="center">
<em>The sign says “Welcome for Chicken.” </em></div>
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Q3fQ-LFhYds/UzRTnmGUa5I/AAAAAAAADyQ/p_L57m-bXes/s1600-h/03-P1030603_thumb12.jpg"><img alt="03-P1030603_thumb1" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-5d6WPshvv3U/UzRToXDOAHI/AAAAAAAADyY/y8POC70LkQo/03-P1030603_thumb1_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="480" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="03-P1030603_thumb1" width="640" /></a><br />
We got fried tacos, bags of rice and salsa, and delicious potatoes (see them roasting there underneath the dripping chicken fat? Oh, yes!) for all 5 of us for about $7.50 USD. David and Carolyn dug into their order on the spot and immediately went back for more. We picked up some drinks at a local “mini-super” and walked back to the main plaza to eat. <br />
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-pAVNL3bJhLo/UzRTpAGgHAI/AAAAAAAADyg/BckMOZsCim0/s1600-h/04-P1030604_thumb12.jpg"><img alt="04-P1030604_thumb1" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Ikh5Q3daooc/UzRTp8PfoaI/AAAAAAAADyo/csrjEsmieLM/04-P1030604_thumb1_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="480" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="04-P1030604_thumb1" width="640" /></a><br />
We found some shade in the gazebo and dug into our meal under the watchful eye of the local iguana population.<br />
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-LBx04_HNPoc/UzRTqp8y0XI/AAAAAAAADyw/j0ywG-FB71c/s1600-h/01-P1030596_thumb2.jpg"><img alt="01-P1030596_thumb" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-iKzL5bz7osg/UzRTrrH7w8I/AAAAAAAADy0/_-ls9GgBUKM/01-P1030596_thumb_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="427" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="01-P1030596_thumb" width="640" /></a><br />
We spent the rest of the afternoon walking the cobblestone streets around town. <br />
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-i0MQn9MvkcA/UzRTsI_Q_5I/AAAAAAAADzA/Zx-ON3p_uQQ/s1600-h/12-IMG_2440_thumb12.jpg"><img alt="12-IMG_2440_thumb1" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-fQtPAz70WTg/UzRTtdvdlyI/AAAAAAAADzI/eeDImmB6GgE/12-IMG_2440_thumb1_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="480" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="12-IMG_2440_thumb1" width="640" /></a><br />
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-YYW-jw2NTWg/UzRTt7o_PMI/AAAAAAAADzQ/U7oxLav5_0E/s1600-h/05-P1030613_thumb2.jpg"><img alt="05-P1030613_thumb" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-PEIb0sHJZKE/UzRTv4pD64I/AAAAAAAADzY/RTn7OmCM8u8/05-P1030613_thumb_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="480" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="05-P1030613_thumb" width="360" /></a><br />
We eventually stumbled across an lovely oasis called The Octopus’ Garden. It’s part restaurant/bar/coffee shop, part art gallery/T-shirt printing shop with live music several days a week, a dance floor upstairs, and a wood shop out back.<br />
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-NurJXVuMA9M/UzRTw3ZOIbI/AAAAAAAADzg/hlXTaPcgUsA/s1600-h/11-IMG_2432_thumb12.jpg"><img alt="11-IMG_2432_thumb1" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Mva5twau2FU/UzRTxqcwirI/AAAAAAAADzk/S9yGslZ_e1M/11-IMG_2432_thumb1_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="480" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="11-IMG_2432_thumb1" width="640" /></a><br />
We walked through the quiet courtyard and found our way to the Huichol Art Gallery at the back. The owners work closely with indigenous people from the area to market their colorful yarn and bead artwork and reproduce several designs on bright T-shirts to help spread the traditional artwork more broadly.<br />
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-qljj1ZYt5oc/UzRTySkF3mI/AAAAAAAADzw/7lCVTlKSfQA/s1600-h/06-P1030616_thumb2.jpg"><img alt="06-P1030616_thumb" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-TtPjTHmuZHE/UzRTzDAdu1I/AAAAAAAADz4/-EPyHUGXj4Q/06-P1030616_thumb_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="480" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="06-P1030616_thumb" width="640" /></a><br />
After a few minutes, several kids burst in and dashed up the stairs. A little curious, we followed them up and found a young Canadian woman teaching an aerial silks class to a mix of locals and cruisers’ kids. She flipped deftly between English and Spanish and just as adeptly, flipped up and down the hanging silk.<br />
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-O6p2RMVBxSE/UzRT0Sb_8GI/AAAAAAAAD0A/fZ768B9HGhw/s1600-h/P1030621_thumb2.jpg"><img alt="P1030621_thumb" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/--ga5CkoTmgU/UzRT1esOvEI/AAAAAAAAD0I/4iYTJjtti08/P1030621_thumb_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="480" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="P1030621_thumb" width="640" /></a><br />
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Xtnd7rr_IdI/UzRT2OtQfAI/AAAAAAAAD0Q/12g9T9FWjM0/s1600-h/08-P1030622_thumb2.jpg"><img alt="08-P1030622_thumb" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-1b-_VbFunyM/UzRT20eJM_I/AAAAAAAAD0U/l2d32YKxt64/08-P1030622_thumb_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="480" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="08-P1030622_thumb" width="360" /></a><br />
I pulled up a chair next to one of the local moms and we easily found connections between our busy lives. She said, “I’d love to learn English, and they offer classes here, but by the time we get home from school and eat something…there’s just no time."<br />
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-5YQQyOIykfg/UzRT3u1EHdI/AAAAAAAAD0g/zmEQ24Dhotk/s1600-h/13-IMG_2441_thumb2.jpg"><img alt="13-IMG_2441_thumb" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-JmzW7e_DYLA/UzRT5E44irI/AAAAAAAAD0o/CbAHT7iyDlk/13-IMG_2441_thumb_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="480" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="13-IMG_2441_thumb" width="640" /></a><br />
Evening found us at "The Twins," a taco stand near La Cruz's main plaza. This small street restaurant had opened just a few days before we arrived in town. Over the next few weeks, it was fun to watch the owners add menu items and equipment as they could. First, they added napkin holders, then salsa bowls for each table, and one proud day, they owner called Bryan over to witness the installation of an Al Pastor rotisserie. They learned our names and joked with Meira about her insatiable appetite. We met some of their 8 kids (including the 3-year-old twins) We affectionately nicknamed the place "Tacos on the Square," "White Tent Tacos," or eventually, Alejandra and Leno's place. 10 peso tacos and new Mexican friends--now we're talking!Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-20808608550360173912014-03-04T06:56:00.003-08:002014-03-04T06:56:49.684-08:00Under the Sea<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Y3JAAMkchVk/UxXikP5bMsI/AAAAAAAADcs/Mmumbb5C3Vw/s1600-h/10-P1030322%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="10-P1030322" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-nGXrsPv_G6Y/UxXilN_mYcI/AAAAAAAADc0/nhubT-DeTcM/10-P1030322_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="10-P1030322" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We’ve had lots of fun learning to snorkel on this trip. Because we were new to the sport, we didn’t really know what to expect. But I think we’re getting spoiled by the snorkeling here. And our time at Las Tres Marietas was among the best we’ve had. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-LD513zNK8r0/UxXimsleiyI/AAAAAAAADc8/UXLWAfHNxRw/s1600-h/13-P1030344%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="13-P1030344" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-4FpLBMvWyjo/UxXin5g57rI/AAAAAAAADdE/LNn29SM1UAQ/13-P1030344_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="13-P1030344" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/--cJ3_ECNG0I/UxXiprc96DI/AAAAAAAADdM/hAB-rcdVbbg/s1600-h/29-P1030556%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="29-P1030556" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-XQojedJTbiM/UxXirBayi6I/AAAAAAAADdU/v_j74DPobH4/29-P1030556_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="29-P1030556" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Our first day there with Ryan (who, once again, took some of the photos in this post. Let’s just give him credit for all the good ones, OK?), he and Bryan went over to the island. In the morning, several big tour boats picked up moorings near ours and disgorged dozens of tipsy tourists for kayaking, paddleboarding, and snorkeling. Some hopped into pangas for a quick ride over to the small beach on the island, so we figured it was OK to go ashore too. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-yX0A7M8G4Os/UxXismXiLbI/AAAAAAAADdc/jjeqAyeWEmo/s1600-h/P1030240%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="P1030240" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-pn414DzQhbo/UxXitfWMcLI/AAAAAAAADdk/g9jSQYxpi9A/P1030240_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="P1030240" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-jRB8YCYsuxM/UxXiu6LQK2I/AAAAAAAADds/ZwY8Nu1RBAc/s1600-h/P1030242%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="P1030242" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ZrQ5iiaJ1lA/UxXiv6y8HlI/AAAAAAAADd0/1RYJup26OcA/P1030242_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="P1030242" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
After the guys rowed over, a park ranger came by and asked me how many of us were aboard. He didn’t speak any English, but I understood him to say it was fine for us to be tied up to the mooring, but not OK to go up on the island. I told him I’d call the guys on the radio to let them know, but before they could find each other and head down, the ranger had gone ashore to find them himself. Even after watching the tour boats head in, Bryan had wondered about shore access, but none of our guide books said to stay off and there was a big “Welcome” sign leading to clearly delineated paths leading up the hillside. As he and Ryan were heading down, they ran into the ranger, who kindly, but firmly said a lot of things in Spanish they didn’t understand. They figured out that it was a big deal, though, when he started miming putting them in handcuffs. <br />
After they got back to the boat, the ranger panga came by again, took the guys passport information, and reiterated the importance of staying off the sensitive island. “The beach is OK, but don’t go up,” he said, and mimed tracking invasive species in on our shoes (a tricky thing to do in a moving boat!) While his co-worker worked the outboard engine to keep the panga close to our gunwales, we apologized profusely and made it clear we wouldn’t go up again. But when we added, “We’ll tell our friends and the other boaters not to go up on the islands,” he seemed to calm down even more. I’m sure he could picture us posting photos on social media and encouraging others to make the same mistake we did. <br />
So…I’m officially telling you all. If you visit Las Tres Marietas, please stay in the water <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-nRxkwMy6xWA/UxXiwjx4rxI/AAAAAAAADd8/RKYJq9ZMIC8/s1600-h/02-P1030448%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="02-P1030448" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-AG5_LuwNi70/UxXixmZ4e7I/AAAAAAAADeE/O4cMsL99TNc/02-P1030448_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="02-P1030448" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
or on the beach<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-etlDqZ3Q7Vw/UxXiy-VIlzI/AAAAAAAADeM/PMdheNFdNy0/s1600-h/1-IMG_2383%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="1-IMG_2383" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ge0pAp9_LSg/UxXiz-2oDCI/AAAAAAAADeQ/DImC54lQQ5c/1-IMG_2383_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="1-IMG_2383" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
and don’t, not matter how inviting the paths or misleading the signage, don’t go up on the islands.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-EuV8pH9yO_0/UxXi1esfXMI/AAAAAAAADec/tLwnrAZEu54/s1600-h/01-P1030279%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="01-P1030279" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-oyLvD5Lru0Q/UxXi2QG8iCI/AAAAAAAADek/pOMlUs6UnAA/01-P1030279_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="01-P1030279" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-wVblfVZI0Fo/UxXi3XHgzxI/AAAAAAAADes/unlRlks_B1A/s1600-h/02-P1030280%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="02-P1030280" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-nVwBRue381w/UxXi4R0pjUI/AAAAAAAADew/kJqkvWh6LW4/02-P1030280_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="02-P1030280" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The next day, Bryan and Ryan jumped in to get in some snorkeling before the party boats arrived. I finished up a few things around the boat and decided to join them. As I pulled out my snorkel gear, I spotted Bryan heading my way. He called, “You’ve got to come see this!” I hollered back, “I’m on my way!”<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-KnbNqt_Tcj0/UxXi5YLq9OI/AAAAAAAADe4/NwpuOjXQMyY/s1600-h/07-P1030477%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="07-P1030477" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-md5sRpCqbZs/UxXi7P7abKI/AAAAAAAADfE/b3WXaCBUHek/07-P1030477_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="07-P1030477" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-lqNBTYpX9yY/UxXi8TXNlZI/AAAAAAAADfM/nv4mMBcpmMU/s1600-h/03-P1030449%25255B11%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="03-P1030449" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-wjWPSYLDfYE/UxXi9WfbqiI/AAAAAAAADfU/8BrHSiZMMOg/03-P1030449_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="03-P1030449" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Before I even got away from the boat, I was surrounded by fish. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-RxfPXCRoV2A/UxXi-iA8LvI/AAAAAAAADfc/xU-qPJvhxDU/s1600-h/19-P1030367%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="19-P1030367" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-rxrMM0XrX3o/UxXi_s4WScI/AAAAAAAADfk/cs5ubzQ8Ijk/19-P1030367_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="19-P1030367" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We saw too many different varieties to identify them all, though we spent quite a bit of time after we got out, dripping over our guide book and pointing out what we’d seen.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-cBi610XDUu8/UxXjA6_SfLI/AAAAAAAADfs/xZ-0VkALYS0/s1600-h/04-P1030298%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="04-P1030298" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-G0ebafiFb84/UxXjBzqXWAI/AAAAAAAADf0/1fYE-j4vrPI/04-P1030298_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="04-P1030298" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-z-E56xHfGtY/UxXjEBXgmMI/AAAAAAAADf8/E5sFA4FNT-0/s1600-h/34-P1030583%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="34-P1030583" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-tlSRhLwkdYA/UxXjFgqOwqI/AAAAAAAADgA/OMqS22KwlPo/34-P1030583_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="34-P1030583" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-HnwfI4QO_k8/UxXjHALFu0I/AAAAAAAADgM/2WFWtl6HbHQ/s1600-h/21-P1030594%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="21-P1030594" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-9jFSp0nPBNI/UxXjITgTVQI/AAAAAAAADgU/NuCkbaqPXfY/21-P1030594_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="21-P1030594" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-oqfcuSC5VPY/UxXjLbXIyVI/AAAAAAAADgc/14kLoe4R2Bw/s1600-h/08-P1030308%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="08-P1030308" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-dwFOqNsEHLo/UxXjMMQXlrI/AAAAAAAADgk/lQ61WLLcRLo/08-P1030308_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="08-P1030308" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The fish weren’t spooked by our presence. If anything, several schools seemed interested in us. Their hive-mind reflexes kept them from colliding with each other or with us, the unpredictable giants, swimming through their watery world.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-eH2O06j9488/UxXjNHEo9NI/AAAAAAAADgs/a5HzyYaCSIs/s1600-h/09-P1030319%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="09-P1030319" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-4wcPQLz12wY/UxXjOGUeQmI/AAAAAAAADgw/oOIEbQan710/09-P1030319_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="09-P1030319" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxhkkEaDOd0wBeS1JFVDUzzg-Tp0dZb4Dg6PzkBh976a_EThZu6D4WdrhUJ46azISj3Op4Sx9vkdy5Fmu_S-w' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-91YCH2dAG3E/UxXjPdsPs1I/AAAAAAAADg8/qjSlMQvWCn0/s1600-h/16-P1030356%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="16-P1030356" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-biVOR8hDqEg/UxXjQj2yAsI/AAAAAAAADhE/nNp72Lgcr1E/16-P1030356_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="16-P1030356" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-NBQw62c7ZEs/UxXjSZZ1EoI/AAAAAAAADhM/DdxV4cv5ejk/s1600-h/17-P1030357%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="17-P1030357" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-kTAYgsCpfAw/UxXjTkEy6CI/AAAAAAAADhU/KEJncwx33iE/17-P1030357_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="17-P1030357" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-NO071We_D5k/UxXjUjacSsI/AAAAAAAADhc/q4SP1o0_-ag/s1600-h/P1030363%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="P1030363" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-eJzGSNLfb-w/UxXjVugwqoI/AAAAAAAADhk/rv2rjZN9WIg/P1030363_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="324" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="P1030363" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
In the afternoon, we sat back and watched the tour-boat show. Experienced kayakers and paddleboarders dodged the sunburned, tipsy kind. One man, obviously new to stand-up paddleboarding, wore his wide-brimmed cowboy hat with stubborn determination. We kept watching for it to fall off when he did, but it stayed firmly affixed through his entire stint in—and back out, and back in again...and back out and back in again—the water. </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Ryan and Meira took turns jumping off the boat.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-wUWj_VrKMPI/UxXjcycPI6I/AAAAAAAADiM/UY_MeiUtwm8/s1600-h/22-P1030377%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="22-P1030377" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-hWi86GOgIRI/UxXjd5vrUgI/AAAAAAAADiU/iLD-LeXO95w/22-P1030377_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="400" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="22-P1030377" width="300" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-hlKLAJ2AqSk/UxXjXu9qMGI/AAAAAAAADhs/ziFr4YeZvVY/s1600-h/20-P1030373%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img alt="20-P1030373" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-3whK4k-WVYU/UxXjYs5mE1I/AAAAAAAADh0/ZqdugmLgufk/20-P1030373_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="20-P1030373" width="400" /></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-4kuz0XvSKNA/UxXjalrMkEI/AAAAAAAADh8/gHhrvdfS5x4/s1600-h/21-P1030379%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img alt="21-P1030379" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-1keheSGyH7s/UxXjcMMvRnI/AAAAAAAADiE/a5yljmo6XSI/21-P1030379_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="400" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="21-P1030379" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-crtul6nJvzw/UxXjfreaefI/AAAAAAAADic/Hu2UoUkZzOg/s1600-h/01-P1030380%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="01-P1030380" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-n_q3mbILBR4/UxXjgXgToeI/AAAAAAAADik/b6BsjhMr-wI/01-P1030380_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="400" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="01-P1030380" width="300" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
And I played with the photo-burst setting on the camera.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-rost2KRDkmo/UxXjhtjrPtI/AAAAAAAADis/lWiUNKIhEqo/s1600-h/23-P1030398%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="23-P1030398" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-4h94fzTpQiE/UxXjinlMCBI/AAAAAAAADi0/QMJjAJi4GEQ/23-P1030398_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="400" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="23-P1030398" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-eIFX6Bw1-Tw/UxXjj6I2sKI/AAAAAAAADi8/DmsVq2WTZ2o/s1600-h/24-P1030401%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="24-P1030401" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-2dWVE5Tjo44/UxXjk3SDgYI/AAAAAAAADjA/XhZXCtaLQwU/24-P1030401_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="400" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="24-P1030401" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Q5YbXYOo77Y/UxXjl2v1sXI/AAAAAAAADjM/pMwodLL1TJU/s1600-h/25-P1030403%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="25-P1030403" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-2_nmUNxGNl0/UxXjnU0-uBI/AAAAAAAADjU/99v-9kHfEm0/25-P1030403_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="400" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="25-P1030403" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-DBUJnKemwa4/UxXjpPZzeuI/AAAAAAAADjc/7l5QsVJvXpw/s1600-h/26-P1030404%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="26-P1030404" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Wpxpgi3_f3Y/UxXjqIiAelI/AAAAAAAADjk/5TQOUl7KU7Y/26-P1030404_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="400" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="26-P1030404" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
Then Bryan and the girls went snorkeling again. The tour boats had left but the fish had not! <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-NfU1qdTokcs/UxXjrWn034I/AAAAAAAADjs/WajhfG81PIo/s1600-h/27-P1030425%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="27-P1030425" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-llhaMg2a0-o/UxXjsfz9e9I/AAAAAAAADj0/hUUen69JKIE/27-P1030425_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="27-P1030425" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-F5nVTwFHgeE/UxXjtfV6yjI/AAAAAAAADj8/R36nx63VJOs/s1600-h/28-P1030526%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="28-P1030526" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-BEbyap4Lmh4/UxXjudc5W6I/AAAAAAAADkE/l4YYnq2aoaQ/28-P1030526_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="28-P1030526" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-tVu1s4Hyxkc/UxXjwI8Z-9I/AAAAAAAADkM/CpcKWqrKiI0/s1600-h/30-P1030560%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="30-P1030560" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-aQy_jsWdmNg/UxXjxXLAcLI/AAAAAAAADkQ/AGB4vUOF8ZY/30-P1030560_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="30-P1030560" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-RKf1y42OVTc/UxXjy8r5shI/AAAAAAAADkY/u28yWtFlG8w/s1600-h/31-P1030564%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="31-P1030564" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Ti50sAUz8tw/UxXjz037V-I/AAAAAAAADkk/czPHctZX8jY/31-P1030564_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="31-P1030564" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-h5t5Yet-8Qg/UxXj1d7ZrbI/AAAAAAAADks/M_Z91HLM6gI/s1600-h/32-P1030566%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="32-P1030566" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-haMLiLXGyN8/UxXj21WfuHI/AAAAAAAADk0/SimvmXV58o0/32-P1030566_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="32-P1030566" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<em>I love the polka-dotted flippers!</em></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Ce1pR5ED18E/UxXj4yJxhOI/AAAAAAAADk8/IBSuSX3TNkY/s1600-h/33-P1030567%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="33-P1030567" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Ekd6PDCdaXQ/UxXj5y2STNI/AAAAAAAADlE/KoQUMtKTfQg/33-P1030567_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="33-P1030567" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-NaAr7eUL1Vg/UxXj7AJNlQI/AAAAAAAADlM/kbh5GDu3ZRo/s1600-h/06-P1030464%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="06-P1030464" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Z68jUuKG9iM/UxXj9oyo4_I/AAAAAAAADlU/EBnXGGvDqLQ/06-P1030464_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="06-P1030464" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-JaJ5p0fZuNE/UxXj-_y3UPI/AAAAAAAADlc/gBhId0nWDsM/s1600-h/10-P1030534%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="10-P1030534" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-UywIfeJubro/UxXkADQHYLI/AAAAAAAADlg/2kz1RyP65Zs/10-P1030534_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="10-P1030534" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/--9ziP2uzH0s/UxXkC1wGnuI/AAAAAAAADls/Cnloee8VgS0/s1600-h/17-P1030580%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="17-P1030580" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-sMBXYNkve-A/UxXkEGUq3WI/AAAAAAAADl0/JxxHfwAn68M/17-P1030580_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="17-P1030580" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-qAyweXb1DbU/UxXkGFH_39I/AAAAAAAADl8/2IuPTcPEbio/s1600-h/18-P1030583%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="18-P1030583" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-UmJmxH4Axx4/UxXkISyWZTI/AAAAAAAADmE/o8iobYzsV6Y/18-P1030583_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="18-P1030583" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-fVMr69DhgdE/UxXkK_mTR0I/AAAAAAAADmM/XxKMuw9x6cQ/s1600-h/19-P1030587%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="19-P1030587" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-WncPoeLhLZg/UxXkNL4YLlI/AAAAAAAADmU/jaYaxP8QAV4/19-P1030587_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="19-P1030587" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Later in the afternoon, Bryan took off on his own to explore the intricate shoreline, where the island’s rocks and arches meet the power of the sea.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-y2mwZeuA0fM/UxXkO_8VdnI/AAAAAAAADmc/s79jP-4urW0/s1600-h/2-IMG_2384%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="2-IMG_2384" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-FLeIhABLjqg/UxXkQIXeHCI/AAAAAAAADmk/BNISSHlWP8g/2-IMG_2384_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="2-IMG_2384" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-YwTOv7NZ79E/UxXkS0u-VMI/AAAAAAAADms/UAAHaGLMk98/s1600-h/09-P1030529%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="09-P1030529" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-MITnMLlDhF8/UxXkUOXuLjI/AAAAAAAADm0/jY9VIQPqvKw/09-P1030529_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="09-P1030529" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-LLgOrf5042U/UxXkW_SPthI/AAAAAAAADm8/ASaf2R_t7kA/s1600-h/20-P1030589%25255B11%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="20-P1030589" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-gECmIP0wpxM/UxXkYFJnoQI/AAAAAAAADnE/XcJ4MrlCp5Y/20-P1030589_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="20-P1030589" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
With every recent post, I have to work to resist the urge to type the same words: …<em>and we </em><em>reluctantly sailed away</em>. Today, I’m giving in. As evening approached, we reluctantly sailed away. The sailing was glorious and we made good time in the brisk afternoon wind. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-bHGkXHskseQ/UxXkaUBPa4I/AAAAAAAADnM/qg10mfDRPX8/s1600-h/2-IMG_2413%25255B11%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="2-IMG_2413" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-trqyANmuwTU/UxXkcuAOuGI/AAAAAAAADnU/IHJGfhvKbGc/2-IMG_2413_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="2-IMG_2413" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Soon the sun hooked the breeze and dragged it down over the horizon. We sat in the stillness of the bay and watched the colors fade. And then the dolphins arrived, arching supple backs in the settling waves. We sat for a little bit longer—quiet, amazed.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-b0Ww6ZRrIYU/UxXkeLG3duI/AAAAAAAADnc/-lGJMZLrtA0/s1600-h/1-IMG_2416%25255B11%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="1-IMG_2416" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-cf-EO9hgbYY/UxXkfePbWoI/AAAAAAAADnk/HCrKymFJeaM/1-IMG_2416_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="1-IMG_2416" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We finally, yes, even reluctantly, turned on the engine and motored the rest of the way to the marina in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, coming into the now-familiar entrance in the dark. The girls stayed in the boat while the adults found a way around the locked marina gates (the dock gates here require a keycard to enter <em>or</em> exit and we wouldn’t get ours until we officially checked in the next morning) and walked up into town for dinner.<br />
It’s easy to see why we say “reluctant” about the places we leave behind. And at times we give in and stay a little longer. But when we manage to tear ourselves away and head back out again, we almost always find new gifts waiting, precious experiences, more wonder.Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-44519653424678454432014-02-24T14:13:00.003-08:002014-02-24T14:16:59.810-08:00The Jungle Tour<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-wAeQ4aSQ7gM/UwuwygZb8BI/AAAAAAAADOg/UExYFzzFl7Y/s1600-h/1-IMG_23393.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="1-IMG_2339" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-NYL6207tKJU/UwuwzYl-OoI/AAAAAAAADOo/aOE6HS-FkMg/1-IMG_2339_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="1-IMG_2339" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div align="center">
<em>Mainland by sunrise</em></div>
Early in our time in Mexico, we’d read about La Tovara and the jungle tours that go up the river there. There’s a lovely little bay within walking (well, rowing, then surf-landing, <em>then</em> walking) distance from the tour boats, but all the guide books said the jejenes (no-see-ums) are terrible. Our boat doesn’t have bug screens and the thought of sleeping in a hot, confined space with biting bugs helped us make the decision to skip Matanchén our first time down the coast from Mazatlan and head straight from Isla Isabel to Chacala instead. In Chacala with Ryan, we’d considered taking a bus up there to avoid the worst hours at dawn and dusk, but it was pretty expensive. <br />
While we were on Isabel this time, though, I couldn’t let the idea go. I leafed through the guidebook again and started doing the math. If we left Isabel in the night, we’d get to Matanchén just after daybreak. Maybe, if all went perfectly, we could catch an early tour and be back on the boat, ready to leave in time to make it into (relatively) bug-free Chacala by sunset. <br />
And it worked!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-OpEFbd5lzpw/Uwuw0peuUsI/AAAAAAAADOw/24ddiirHE2s/s1600-h/04-IMG_22553.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="04-IMG_2255" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-EI2wgy3Sav0/Uwuw197lXsI/AAAAAAAADO4/YWGl4WjrIrM/04-IMG_2255_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="04-IMG_2255" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div align="center">
<em>The end of a long night watch</em></div>
We pulled into Matanchén about 8am and found a place to anchor in the shallow bay. The water shoaled gradually up to the beach so we had to anchor quite a ways from the recommended dinghy landing. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-HcPxnzgcHo0/Uwuw2x7fB7I/AAAAAAAADPA/e1GsbQvzBB8/s1600-h/2-IMG_234011.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="2-IMG_2340" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Hs6pGctI_bs/Uwuw4ApSx8I/AAAAAAAADPI/HvlSwccG9-s/2-IMG_2340_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="2-IMG_2340" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Before we had pulled ourselves together, a couple from another boat stopped by to introduce themselves and they pointed us toward a closer place to row the dinghy in. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-4SwOftEstcs/Uwuw5D-0VMI/AAAAAAAADPQ/Kj67N2100WQ/s1600-h/3-IMG_234110.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="3-IMG_2341" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-sNUu60fvzCI/Uwuw69gfkdI/AAAAAAAADPY/tzpOXtBoaL4/3-IMG_2341_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="3-IMG_2341" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div align="center">
<em>This is the </em>closer<em> landing!</em></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-aPEMLRVJ--k/Uwuw79cl2VI/AAAAAAAADPg/VA02GiIxsng/s1600-h/4-IMG_23427.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="4-IMG_2342" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Uq9MvltWab4/Uwuw9MbCQxI/AAAAAAAADPo/DvxIMm58BCc/4-IMG_2342_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="4-IMG_2342" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We pulled on long-sleeved shirts and long-ish pants and added bug spray for extra protection before rowing over to shore. We walked up from the beach along a dusty road and soon, found ourselves in the main town. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-WtKreuBfXdI/Uwuw-FSGUFI/AAAAAAAADPw/4wO_2bxZ5DE/s1600-h/2-IMG_23467.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="2-IMG_2346" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/--Flsme3ELNk/Uwuw-wsffkI/AAAAAAAADP4/Nd9uKhHpv_U/2-IMG_2346_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="2-IMG_2346" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>There's our boat...way out in the bay!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-pe2Rv2T61Bo/Uwuw__Y8fKI/AAAAAAAADQA/eUmpDqJ02OY/s1600-h/1-IMG_23453.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="1-IMG_2345" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-XxI44HSVdUA/UwuxA3t3T7I/AAAAAAAADQI/834x_Z3nmeQ/1-IMG_2345_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="1-IMG_2345" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-T5OV0qQh5po/UwuxCOMixjI/AAAAAAAADQQ/xdnIQGM6Ivs/s1600-h/09-P10301263.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="09-P1030126" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-a-KpKL0lhWc/UwuxDN5AIxI/AAAAAAAADQY/JVH_VhXLH4E/09-P1030126_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="09-P1030126" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Sunday morning church-goers bought pastries and banana bread, the local specialty, at roadside shops.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-pJt7zeW51Ro/UwuxETUWSxI/AAAAAAAADQg/bcadBmhiEqc/s1600-h/10-P10301273.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="10-P1030127" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-PMmQM2xRlC4/UwuxFEJmJ9I/AAAAAAAADQo/faGZ3IY2Yy8/10-P1030127_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="10-P1030127" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We easily found our way to the tour boats, paid for our tickets (we upgraded to include the side tour of the crocodile nursery), and funneled down the ramp to our ride.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-4VsW0UqwHFM/UwuxGX_f9GI/AAAAAAAADQw/XoLAq5vgVwU/s1600-h/11-P10301283.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="11-P1030128" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-l585QloPvrA/UwuxHjQwawI/AAAAAAAADQ4/nJ-N2N-Wcnk/11-P1030128_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="11-P1030128" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Our driver eased us away from the dock and pointed the panga up the narrow river. Mangroves encroached into the curving waterway, reaching out slender limbs to meet our outstretched fingers.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Ga3IwQ0Mi7w/UwuxJhaMxhI/AAAAAAAADRA/bgr7iKo2xCs/s1600-h/12-P10301303.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="12-P1030130" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ejixUmSE2r8/UwuxLMWhKaI/AAAAAAAADRI/wGc6Ckh5uUQ/12-P1030130_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="400" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="12-P1030130" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-xxmo-j9Tcc4/UwuxMbJ-W7I/AAAAAAAADRQ/rrzP1KeXgIA/s1600-h/7-P10302287.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="7-P1030228" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-1j9Q4AYgVx8/UwuxNSb5HBI/AAAAAAAADRY/nuq-ojZ6JAs/7-P1030228_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="7-P1030228" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-G1qjyBhzJqE/UwuxOhRBUvI/AAAAAAAADRg/2IowM5KVnWA/s1600-h/13-P10301323.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="13-P1030132" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-bX52LhdXxP0/UwuxPiy6oiI/AAAAAAAADRo/YWER6gRo-n8/13-P1030132_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="400" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="13-P1030132" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-5FuR4P-t1kw/UwuxQwAHn4I/AAAAAAAADRw/p5cp0-B7oDw/s1600-h/15-P10301333.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="15-P1030133" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-3YeqHyQSjmo/UwuxSDfb_II/AAAAAAAADR4/U4YC-iaxJM0/15-P1030133_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="15-P1030133" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
After a few minutes in the cool shade, we came out into a wider stretch of river.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-sEnBijFjTxg/UwuxTeiNm8I/AAAAAAAADSA/l-De8GrVAMk/s1600-h/P10301483.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="P1030148" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-VQRuUjd3Vis/UwuxUoHCXuI/AAAAAAAADSI/b0mvWzYgl8w/P1030148_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="P1030148" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-6a8coUJU1e8/UwuxV0lK2yI/AAAAAAAADSQ/WnkGpHZcmJo/s1600-h/14-P10301353.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="14-P1030135" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-hIO8O5AQXjY/UwuxW-6qV0I/AAAAAAAADSY/J1qlEBRC8Lk/14-P1030135_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="14-P1030135" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Jungle-green mountains in the distance kept us oriented as we motored back and forth through the maze of mangroves and water. Our guide slowed down further to show off birds and bromeliads. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-fD8huXa9tuE/UwuxYk4c7II/AAAAAAAADSg/x9Gwj-Bp6Ys/s1600-h/17-P10301443.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="17-P1030144" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-2pj_o0UsKwk/UwuxaeGuPyI/AAAAAAAADSo/lXcngPsPpIc/17-P1030144_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="17-P1030144" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-QOMbCq_hTqM/UwuxbzS8hyI/AAAAAAAADSw/xIEzzie1Znk/s1600-h/P10301533.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="P1030153" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ZU-4aR9bIaE/UwuxdI1FkEI/AAAAAAAADS4/nj8ht_5wLYY/P1030153_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="P1030153" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-CATi8E6u6GY/UwuxesS__OI/AAAAAAAADTA/yOd0ddHeKns/s1600-h/18-P10301473.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="18-P1030147" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-nGzBv8pZCo4/UwuxgXMidsI/AAAAAAAADTI/L2zAqHRc3SQ/18-P1030147_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="18-P1030147" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-bosnJ-uPFyU/UwuxiqXEEWI/AAAAAAAADTQ/2mL1BWv5CoI/s1600-h/20-P10301553.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="20-P1030155" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/--OdT8mLOWSo/UwuxkBzHTQI/AAAAAAAADTY/ZV2l7Ytitl8/20-P1030155_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="20-P1030155" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Floating logs rocked in our gentle wake and tossed sun-drenched turtles into the water.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-hnNCch_otKM/UwuxlxuMBvI/AAAAAAAADTg/4PUi_gMttQI/s1600-h/23-P10301643.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="23-P1030164" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-3N9bUTvYW54/Uwuxm0Ek8vI/AAAAAAAADTo/44GVi602NWs/23-P1030164_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="23-P1030164" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-8e8rwYHWfMY/UwuxovW1AqI/AAAAAAAADTw/KZk1E6PWLjg/s1600-h/24-P10301653.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="24-P1030165" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Q1lOqCffl_k/UwuxqXlBmyI/AAAAAAAADT4/ixs23N_dxng/24-P1030165_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="24-P1030165" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-fN1cM2R4QwQ/UwuxsoyysjI/AAAAAAAADUA/JalH8re57C4/s1600-h/P10301683.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="P1030168" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-AiM8QG1ithQ/Uwuxt8PJ6fI/AAAAAAAADUI/cfL046Lvqhg/P1030168_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="P1030168" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We kept a sharp eye on the riverbank (and our fingers out of the water!) These crocodiles are huge!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-9ttBXSg_vME/Uwuxv-gHHQI/AAAAAAAADUQ/-nHUmw1zXCo/s1600-h/16-P10301373.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="16-P1030137" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-0bDW81_Fq8I/Uwuxxt5UkiI/AAAAAAAADUY/EEU01a8VxG0/16-P1030137_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="16-P1030137" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-df4yzu2cZec/Uwux0I2WBHI/AAAAAAAADUg/fxyeUoT5XCU/s1600-h/P10301743.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="P1030174" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-c8QT6JakQp8/Uwux1jr2VgI/AAAAAAAADUo/weZLSxA75rE/P1030174_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="P1030174" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Our driver slowed even more and stooped down to ease under a low, single-lane bridge over the river. We ducked our heads under the concrete supports and waved at the men eating lunch in the shade on the span. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ch3099rGdjY/Uwux3DM8FUI/AAAAAAAADUw/KaVq-cn7a70/s1600-h/4-P10301977.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="4-P1030197" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-vJa6RiEAyYE/Uwux4VHLDII/AAAAAAAADU4/cgUTa09T_GU/4-P1030197_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="4-P1030197" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
A couple of minutes later, we pulled up to the crocodile nursery and wildlife rescue. Our guide pulled up near an enormous tree and waited silently until our eyes began to pick out the iguanas camouflaged in the shadows above. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-o-sYDbSOsc0/Uwux6MsTuXI/AAAAAAAADVA/P-3B17qdozo/s1600-h/1-P10301777.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="1-P1030177" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-O-wsqZGy1RQ/Uwux8K2iNpI/AAAAAAAADVI/bHUvzeFiFGU/1-P1030177_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="1-P1030177" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Someone spotted one, then pointed it out all around. Soon we saw another and another and then 8 or 10 materialized like Cheshire cats. One dangled vertically from the end of a thin branch. It clambered up the twig, using the tiniest of shoots as ladder rungs. When it finally scurried to safety on a larger branch we all let out a little cheer.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-tCtZBmlKEIw/Uwux-CnAcBI/AAAAAAAADVQ/3mVYuFKlY58/s1600-h/21-P10301603.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="21-P1030160" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-YMjYeYBtYKI/Uwux_OEE5nI/AAAAAAAADVY/u3liuyAek_g/21-P1030160_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="21-P1030160" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We pulled past several waiting pangas to a small landing at the crocodile nursery. We’re used to self-guided tours, so it was a bit of a rush to see everything in the 15 minutes we were given. But a polite and articulate young woman met us near the entrance and quickly showed us around the small refuge. I didn’t feel rushed at the time, but thinking back, we must have been. We didn’t stop for very many pictures and didn’t make good mental notes of all the different animals.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-0PHrHpW1Gbk/UwuyAjsXCwI/AAAAAAAADVg/oyBfpkPLePA/s1600-h/26-P10301803.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="26-P1030180" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-lFPlj6KG2j8/UwuyCTwQy3I/AAAAAAAADVo/wXtyFAfzzoE/26-P1030180_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="26-P1030180" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
A frenzy of fish met us at the entrance. Young jaguars stared through chain-link fencing. And Meira got up close and personal with a collared peccary. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-w40enPtp-YE/UwuyE55g5wI/AAAAAAAADVw/GnpR22kUL8o/s1600-h/30-P10301883.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="30-P1030188" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-T5GI1kqj61E/UwuyGK9OFhI/AAAAAAAADV4/j3z90nC90LI/30-P1030188_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="30-P1030188" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We saw crocodiles in all different stages of life, from very young to feeble. Young crocs grow surprisingly slowly and are vulnerable to predators for many years. These are older than they look, perhaps 2 or 3 years old.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-pYtGVhCbN68/UwuyHbRhKpI/AAAAAAAADWA/MVvEBz9hMfc/s1600-h/P10301827.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="P1030182" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-2b_HfCtRrko/UwuyIpNYmsI/AAAAAAAADWI/GhYqSStGlJY/P1030182_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="P1030182" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-iDcK4yJN7C8/UwuyJ_PjDGI/AAAAAAAADWQ/ZHJsd8nyqio/s1600-h/31-P10301893.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="31-P1030189" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-SLBzMHOPC-s/UwuyK0tasFI/AAAAAAAADWY/Uzsssc4Dp-4/31-P1030189_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="31-P1030189" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Some of the crocodiles here will eventually be released but others—one blind, one missing its teeth—need special care. Our guide explained that crocodiles can’t move their tongues; they’re held in place by a membrane. This gaping mouth isn’t a threat, but a method of thermoregulation.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Ltevx4iw5Kk/UwuyMbi9MwI/AAAAAAAADWg/OSjokTlh8vM/s1600-h/29-P10301863.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="29-P1030186" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-dXvPdRodh98/UwuyNpQHpmI/AAAAAAAADWo/lExK1MCZekk/29-P1030186_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="29-P1030186" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-iRUwMVVI-cI/UwuyO0wb2JI/AAAAAAAADWw/pROr9EJYILQ/s1600-h/27-P10301813.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="27-P1030181" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-QYVd7WWRgQs/UwuyPypMPMI/AAAAAAAADW4/-gx4OW7rBFg/27-P1030181_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="27-P1030181" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-KdVqbcgbwRw/UwuyRSD6YOI/AAAAAAAADXA/8_Wzrsy5_kY/s1600-h/33-P10301913.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="33-P1030191" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-0OvpS9o5G2w/UwuySaIHBoI/AAAAAAAADXI/m14PptjWFZQ/33-P1030191_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="33-P1030191" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We tipped our informative guide and hopped back into the panga. Partway back the way we’d come, we took a different tributary and came out at Tovara Springs. We’d read of the restaurant and the swimming hole here and had brought our suits, but we didn’t have enough time to eat and swim. Hunger won out. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-NekQBB8rjrU/Uwuz_2Y1RrI/AAAAAAAADXU/d6R6s2e3j34/s1600-h/42-P10302103.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="42-P1030210" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-fyrSvwTs2Nw/Uwu0BawFGDI/AAAAAAAADXc/UcBA7x4I9b8/42-P1030210_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="42-P1030210" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The food was good. The fish portions were huge and we enjoyed fooling around in the shade and watching the swimmers leap from the small rope swing. Silliness ensued.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-jjEuvsXTKtY/Uwu0DPSnMMI/AAAAAAAADXk/ybZNGDAuBis/s1600-h/5-P103020111.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="5-P1030201" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-wRV7hWhIzzw/Uwu0EpYwQRI/AAAAAAAADXs/5bWtlO32hXo/5-P1030201_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="5-P1030201" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-BT8IUg8fR_8/Uwu0GJ1RnGI/AAAAAAAADX0/WX-GTzH_PRU/s1600-h/40-P10302083.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="40-P1030208" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-j1wx7i8ojqc/Uwu0G09HSyI/AAAAAAAADX8/gKq6he9w220/40-P1030208_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="40-P1030208" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-KSsnicwErD8/Uwu0IH-swXI/AAAAAAAADYE/1VX-QEA3_DE/s1600-h/44-P10302173.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="44-P1030217" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-4T-hQXQ8mrI/Uwu0I5QJbOI/AAAAAAAADYI/gd-rnVEJFEk/44-P1030217_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="44-P1030217" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-HrzFfhjChFA/Uwu0KmfbhVI/AAAAAAAADYU/IO9H5tLJVbs/s1600-h/43-P10302133.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="43-P1030213" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-euO4A5AwG4k/Uwu0LvI8ceI/AAAAAAAADYc/UoMhBPF0m8g/43-P1030213_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="43-P1030213" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-NgprBwS3RW8/Uwu0NhcGJdI/AAAAAAAADYk/KAwGz-5X7Q0/s1600-h/45-P10302203.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="45-P1030220" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-g6Xh8Hd6ZOk/Uwu0OqphbNI/AAAAAAAADYs/BP8_Iek0EDM/45-P1030220_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="45-P1030220" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-TsQO5MYKYmc/Uwu0PVJsnNI/AAAAAAAADY0/3FinhMXFco8/s1600-h/5-IMG_23697.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="5-IMG_2369" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-h2XtPG3Kfe0/Uwu0QF3pSkI/AAAAAAAADY8/0BdHbl6wB5o/5-IMG_2369_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="5-IMG_2369" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Our driver had tied his boat to a tree on the shady side of the river for his own lunch break. But as we approached the landing, he pulled over to meet us.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-f58cqoy4vSo/Uwu0RY3C6CI/AAAAAAAADZE/oX6pnbB0yKk/s1600-h/47-P10302223.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="47-P1030222" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-_05SDjpT82c/Uwu0SMbmVTI/AAAAAAAADZI/Wkkh2jw3L28/47-P1030222_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="400" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="47-P1030222" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
He took the trip back a little faster and expertly dodged all the oncoming pangas in the skinny river. We were glad we’d come early in the day, before the high wakes scared away all the animals. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<object class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="https://i1.ytimg.com/s_vi/vA3hZ7QMA6M/default.jpg?sqp=CLiGr5gF&rs=AOn4CLAxU4qkS4Sxks9tUl1gkvH15nbzlw" height="266" width="320"><param name="movie" value="https://www.youtube.com/v/vA3hZ7QMA6M?version=3&f=user_uploads&c=google-webdrive-0&app=youtube_gdata" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/v/vA3hZ7QMA6M?version=3&f=user_uploads&c=google-webdrive-0&app=youtube_gdata" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-OgeQgepP8i0/Uwu0TKDsJlI/AAAAAAAADZU/9NyN2s6LAz4/s1600-h/36-P10301983.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="36-P1030198" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-HfACX-ouzAY/Uwu0UEiVoMI/AAAAAAAADZc/4lCFTo2cS9k/36-P1030198_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="36-P1030198" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-s3w9RmA9Fso/Uwu0VYmKJ0I/AAAAAAAADZk/-45fzX5-iEc/s1600-h/37-P10302003.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="37-P1030200" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-lW-JXWM6Sj0/Uwu0WJ50A-I/AAAAAAAADZs/jRXV4gZ4Jc8/37-P1030200_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="37-P1030200" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
I couldn’t stop staring at the splashes of white in the sea of green. The water reflected the beautiful birds and elegant blooms with a breathtaking visual echo.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-zhwbY2HffTw/Uwu0X4pqyeI/AAAAAAAADZ0/c693KUPoYIw/s1600-h/2-P10301933.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="2-P1030193" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-P4AxnV6lYxI/Uwu0ZrP1RVI/AAAAAAAADZ8/H_nUive5RmQ/2-P1030193_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="2-P1030193" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-63jSzDW0hA4/Uwu0bDpG1ZI/AAAAAAAADaE/qZ3MWwATD20/s1600-h/3-P10301953.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="3-P1030195" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-by5UHQcgwGA/Uwu0bzGvcbI/AAAAAAAADaM/Ss9Wxbq6hEQ/3-P1030195_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="3-P1030195" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-V5YTM6oFndw/Uwu0dRjzcPI/AAAAAAAADaU/NZyy7NCu2Co/s1600-h/6-P10302233.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="6-P1030223" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-be3J-OYkWz8/Uwu0eu9WpDI/AAAAAAAADac/GPdtquImvYU/6-P1030223_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="6-P1030223" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-fwL1T_5JI1g/Uwu0goExe-I/AAAAAAAADak/qAkASWb1s_4/s1600-h/48-P10302243.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="48-P1030224" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-etTeUjA4ddA/Uwu0hpA7u-I/AAAAAAAADas/TydtMmps0pY/48-P1030224_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="48-P1030224" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div align="center">
<em>We drooled over this mysterious congregation—true waterfront property!</em></div>
<div align="center">
<em><br /></em></div>
<div align="left">
Back at the docks, we disembarked to find an industrious baker offering delicious empanadas to the hungry tourists. We were happy to pick from among her many flavors. Pineapple, coconut, strawberry, and cream!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-j3G3YqEe4xQ/Uwu0jUVBHvI/AAAAAAAADa0/onWjC41Wu4c/s1600-h/4-IMG_23733.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="4-IMG_2373" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-cmlf-55ZcFQ/Uwu0kpE23oI/AAAAAAAADa8/LkxXz8QJAhA/4-IMG_2373_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="4-IMG_2373" width="400" /></a></div>
<div align="left">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-HpM5wHP6EKg/Uwu0meIzt3I/AAAAAAAADbE/T2TsmOsgqyQ/s1600-h/3-IMG_23723.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="3-IMG_2372" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-nDQD6fD9yzA/Uwu0ndzDvyI/AAAAAAAADbM/6h_r2S09VFc/3-IMG_2372_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="3-IMG_2372" width="400" /></a></div>
<div align="left">
</div>
<div align="left">
We walked back the way we had come, through the town and out the road beyond to the beach.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-_eYKntqgPsI/Uwu0pc-x5yI/AAAAAAAADbU/ZTZgNCyljHg/s1600-h/8-P10301173.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="8-P1030117" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-TJg58iqh2Qo/Uwu0qpx3UhI/AAAAAAAADbc/thXxwZ3RrxQ/8-P1030117_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="8-P1030117" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-rS2UcUQIUHk/Uwu0sNZqskI/AAAAAAAADbk/Uc9IJGQirBk/s1600-h/49-P10301193.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="49-P1030119" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-KOcCyWtLfVQ/Uwu0td_BSMI/AAAAAAAADbs/mURN2yU2Lug/49-P1030119_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="49-P1030119" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We stopped along the way to chase the butterflies for a few minutes.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-8-mNxS-S4IM/Uwu0uXY1W5I/AAAAAAAADbw/G3cJbpcV8IM/s1600-h/08-P10301233.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="08-P1030123" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-WOyeci1mZs4/Uwu0vZdG5UI/AAAAAAAADb8/2iDOKEzmDkk/08-P1030123_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="08-P1030123" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-9pe6GCs5iHQ/Uwu0wtIH_2I/AAAAAAAADcE/2W9EdW1XZZA/s1600-h/07-P10301203.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="07-P1030120" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-kuaJvqr0QG0/Uwu0xvKTkqI/AAAAAAAADcM/yDUqHwAWUxA/07-P1030120_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="07-P1030120" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
While we were on the jungle tour, the waterline had receded considerably and the beaches had filled up with people. Families and friends sat around plastic tables in the sand and dusty cars and trucks overflowed the palapa-covered parking garages. Parents and children waded far out into the shallow bay and we joined them, glad for the chance to cool off a bit. We finally reached deep enough water to float a loaded-down <em>Rover,</em> and we rowed through the crowd back to the boat.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-_ugyQahCvao/Uwu0ypQR3eI/AAAAAAAADcU/NkY6PQ_j9AI/s1600-h/5-IMG_23743.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="5-IMG_2374" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-hQoAyyrhEx0/Uwu00I7KpZI/AAAAAAAADcc/JhLxGMyEF2A/5-IMG_2374_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="5-IMG_2374" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We needed to take off right away to make it into Chacala before dark. But it only took 10 minutes to get everyone into swimsuits and over the side for a refreshing dunk. Then we hauled up the anchor and motored the 5 hours south for the night. Along the way, we saw a few whales. It was nothing like the spectacular show we’d had with the Moms a few days before, but one whale surfaced suddenly very close to the boat on what appeared to be a collision course. We reduced speed immediately and turned away from the giant creature, looking in all directions to see where it would come up next. A few minutes later, Ryan and I happened to be looking aft when it surfaced just a few yards off our stern. Bryan was facing forward and only heard the explosive sound of the whale spout. He whirled around to see the splash and we all laughed in relief. The whale must have just been checking us out. It dove deep and we didn’t see it again. <br />
We came into Chacala just after sunset and got both anchors down without any difficulty. As we dropped our stern anchor, a giant cheer went up from on shore. Loud brass music blared across the water and startled us back to civilization. For the last several days, we’d been out at the island or touring the jungle. It was a shock to remember that millions of people around the world were watching the Superbowl. The girls curled up on the boat while the 3 adults rowed in to shore. We found our usually sleepy little restaurant filled with sports fans and gringos looking for a taste of home. We found some chairs and joined them for the 4th quarter and the post-game cheering before popping across the street for a late-night pizza.<br />
<br />
<i>Many thanks to Ryan Severson for the use of his pictures and his fabulous videography.</i>Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-53336394989055473282014-02-22T11:34:00.004-08:002014-02-22T11:34:35.347-08:00Lazy Day on Isabel<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-a8_KC1o780Q/Uwj58sgUzVI/AAAAAAAADNI/_fdf-ytb3d0/s1600-h/01-P1030108_thumb%25255B1%25255D%25255B2%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="01-P1030108_thumb[1]" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-eRpsys30DTc/Uwj592N02MI/AAAAAAAADNQ/u_2SB5kAf18/01-P1030108_thumb%25255B1%25255D_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="01-P1030108_thumb[1]" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-2YenbnCCJZA/Uwj5-5rWOVI/AAAAAAAADNY/uvnQjiyqwCc/s1600-h/03-P1030114_thumb%25255B1%25255D%25255B2%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="03-P1030114_thumb[1]" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-xrd8T2hf0Do/Uwj5_x0wPPI/AAAAAAAADNg/_g6Q6YeJa5M/03-P1030114_thumb%25255B1%25255D_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="03-P1030114_thumb[1]" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-_uHamQvtPQE/Uwj6AnYPUcI/AAAAAAAADNo/_S6bnaMCOk8/s1600-h/02-P1030110_thumb%25255B1%25255D%25255B2%25255D.jpg"><img alt="02-P1030110_thumb[1]" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-1nlPfkMRBR0/Uwj6BbjSP8I/AAAAAAAADNw/fuqfLAqZct8/02-P1030110_thumb%25255B1%25255D_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="400" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="02-P1030110_thumb[1]" width="300" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-iLFzBqbWlyg/Uwj6CNwkMmI/AAAAAAAADN4/Atg6vc7WLfg/s1600-h/06-IMG_2258_thumb%25255B1%25255D%25255B2%25255D.jpg"><img alt="06-IMG_2258_thumb[1]" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-azwW1edN03M/Uwj6DF3XyyI/AAAAAAAADOA/6XuOwv3-oxE/06-IMG_2258_thumb%25255B1%25255D_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="06-IMG_2258_thumb[1]" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-BdlrOVYVGwI/Uwj6DxosXmI/AAAAAAAADOI/S2NhIYhWMcI/s1600-h/05-IMG_2257_thumb%25255B1%25255D%25255B2%25255D.jpg"><img alt="05-IMG_2257_thumb[1]" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Oj2OXElWsbg/Uwj6EX9et4I/AAAAAAAADOQ/iuH1YPEGkXg/05-IMG_2257_thumb%25255B1%25255D_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="05-IMG_2257_thumb[1]" width="400" /></a></div>
Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8436413195352941999.post-20897332017014015062014-02-20T02:30:00.000-08:002014-02-20T06:36:24.160-08:00Isla Isabel Again<blockquote>
We left Chacala in the middle of the night, bound for Isla Isabel. We woke Ryan to help Bryan pull up the dual anchors and I steered us out of the bay while the wet anchor line shed phosphorescence on the deck. Bryan took the rest of the night watch and I came on for the morning hours. We pulled into the Island about midday and several crewmembers jumped over immediately “to check on the anchor.” It is really nice to check the anchor set (as it turned out, it had caught on a rock instead of setting and we fooled around with our underwater camera trying to catch the process of setting the anchor on video) but we mostly just wanted to cool off.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-9p-nF1s5U4E/UwVGNzJH3qI/AAAAAAAADDg/Or9rq_TBATo/s1600-h/04-P1020931%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="04-P1020931" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/--XRw3iLlddY/UwVGO1LhD4I/AAAAAAAADDo/ThKd_Xgs9NE/04-P1020931_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="04-P1020931" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
In the evening, the breeze picked up a little, but we ate dinner in the cockpit anyway.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-XRTx2tNidkg/UwVGQIXRNkI/AAAAAAAADDw/H5jo1WGZuCk/s1600-h/P1020925%25255B15%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="P1020925" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-m9FrKkbyoK0/UwVGRBmbATI/AAAAAAAADD4/nMfHf76_FOU/P1020925_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="P1020925" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The next day, Bryan found a place in our small boat to make a cup of coffee and headed out into the cockpit to enjoy the morning view.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-301WkUOFfJY/UwVGSO8Sf9I/AAAAAAAADEA/_O50E4btY6E/s1600-h/01-IMG_2265%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="01-IMG_2265" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-M2ZUkm837Rk/UwVGS7Gk-BI/AAAAAAAADEI/-vDfwhhxtVA/01-IMG_2265_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="400" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="01-IMG_2265" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-4TIxDdsJJKA/UwVGTzY5M4I/AAAAAAAADEQ/gup8XB-QsXM/s1600-h/04-IMG_2270%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="04-IMG_2270" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-bZwf_6eQtSE/UwVGUpBlpQI/AAAAAAAADEY/pz6j-MQ5MRc/04-IMG_2270_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="04-IMG_2270" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Hannah popped out to see what she could see (isn’t that why “…the sailor went to sea, sea, sea”?)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-B6N1L-7wM6M/UwVGVyxbn3I/AAAAAAAADEg/WbkTwwgQvh8/s1600-h/02-IMG_2266%25255B11%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="02-IMG_2266" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Z-jg8MYvK_c/UwVGWkjIPAI/AAAAAAAADEo/BK8uXr5WY1I/02-IMG_2266_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="02-IMG_2266" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-x4uvBOlaeNw/UwVGYTlh1XI/AAAAAAAADEw/DibTrgD-tU4/s1600-h/03-IMG_2268%25255B15%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="03-IMG_2268" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-QRQeQTPbl8g/UwVGZW_2AhI/AAAAAAAADE4/_3N7saGDhys/03-IMG_2268_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="03-IMG_2268" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
And then we spent a while getting ready (it’s hard enough to get the 4 of us off the boat in a reasonable amount of time, much less 5!) <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-aIT2fqctYUA/UwVGae6XNcI/AAAAAAAADFA/76d50x5ae0A/s1600-h/05-IMG_2272%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="05-IMG_2272" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-F5XrtsxIkG8/UwVGbiG8ABI/AAAAAAAADFI/uV8MqhNpVQQ/05-IMG_2272_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="05-IMG_2272" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Soon enough, we rowed to shore. In the weeks since our previous visit, strong swell and high tides had altered the beach considerably. Several sections of sand had dropped away and the nesting birds sat just feet from the new drop off.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-nirGvq-LfPc/UwVGdaQWTzI/AAAAAAAADFQ/cd63OKhuMyA/s1600-h/07-IMG_2283%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="07-IMG_2283" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-8T2s3bZ-G9k/UwVGe-kN6NI/AAAAAAAADFY/ujg0pD1HL5k/07-IMG_2283_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="07-IMG_2283" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-NBhpg3v3y6A/UwVGhZZk8CI/AAAAAAAADFg/fxj28LuEyWw/s1600-h/06-IMG_2279%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="06-IMG_2279" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-oW-MOlvdp30/UwVGivHwS2I/AAAAAAAADFo/vXMrLnhOa4w/06-IMG_2279_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="06-IMG_2279" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-wvFv83WxwUQ/UwVGkjVvNsI/AAAAAAAADFw/9IVmgSmFcIg/s1600-h/10-IMG_2293%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="10-IMG_2293" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-X_uHAe61rJ0/UwVGmbskUNI/AAAAAAAADF4/s14Yv0stvek/10-IMG_2293_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="10-IMG_2293" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We tried to avoid scaring them at this sensitive time in their life-cycle. But it was hard to find a path down the beach that didn’t lead right by the nests.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-hPcc8apy1_k/UwVGpDpJYrI/AAAAAAAADGA/UljrB4FtW38/s1600-h/08-IMG_2286%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="08-IMG_2286" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-6dyyYjQVgFU/UwVGqq1IKWI/AAAAAAAADGI/xUTWhgf8Z_Y/08-IMG_2286_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="08-IMG_2286" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ryan's veiw...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-bklHiNY1nhU/UwVGtOdIkMI/AAAAAAAADGQ/aFtLSFrtgtc/s1600-h/09-IMG_2287%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="09-IMG_2287" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-MKR3L2Pudc0/UwVGwa7DdUI/AAAAAAAADGY/6m4f5-CKOtU/09-IMG_2287_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="09-IMG_2287" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and mine.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We walked along the sand and met a bird researcher who asked us to move back down to the water’s edge. The researchers were studying the nesting birds in a small strip of coastline right where we’d landed. They wanted what we did<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 16.1200008392334px;">—</span>to make sure we didn't disturb the nests. We chatted with him for a few minutes and learned a few interesting facts. Blue boobies typically lay 2 or 3 eggs 4 or 5 days apart. In lean years, the first baby to hatch competes strongly for scarce resources and the younger siblings often don't survive. The researchers had been following this population for 30 years or so trying to discover whether surviving younger siblings grew up with long-term disadvantages. To their surprise, so far it doesn’t seem it makes any difference in their future behavior or health. Brown boobies, on the other hand, lay their eggs 10 days apart. If the older sibling doesn’t succumb to disease or predation in the first 10 days, they kill the younger sibling as it hatches.<br />
Boobies aren’t all competition and violence though. Apparently, birds with the brightest blue feet (like the little dude below) have a harder time finding a mate. If I understood correctly, they eat small shrimpy creatures, dust shrimp-shell powder on their feet to turn them lighter and more turquoise, and then lift their feet in turn, using their white bellies to reflect the color toward a prospective mate.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-dPvawQqjolg/UwVGzqxutoI/AAAAAAAADGg/O7wx0sXY7Ds/s1600-h/08-P1020948%25255B11%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="08-P1020948" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-p6t21G9Frlw/UwVG1gzVoxI/AAAAAAAADGo/bdopSpXJhW4/08-P1020948_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="08-P1020948" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We walked up the beach at the tideline and explored the rocks around the edges on our way to the trail that led to the western side of the island.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-I_yTvNlrq6s/UwVG2uOGsFI/AAAAAAAADGw/TkiAoqUucdE/s1600-h/06-P1020936%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="06-P1020936" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-zOsRRLG7nh8/UwVG4RjUtsI/AAAAAAAADG4/YPfthifYBRA/06-P1020936_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="06-P1020936" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-X5Na6CKi8bI/UwVG699pZnI/AAAAAAAADHA/ORwiWH3L6mc/s1600-h/09-P1020959%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="09-P1020959" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-seCrtEgpmAY/UwVG812vsQI/AAAAAAAADHI/tEkoaXfcDLs/09-P1020959_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="09-P1020959" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-cou1JdoUPZk/UwVG-997qiI/AAAAAAAADHQ/O6r6mwoi_6Y/s1600-h/10-P1020961%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="10-P1020961" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-f0zT_kq0nnk/UwVG_wBWJtI/AAAAAAAADHY/1Cst9yoRbyw/10-P1020961_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="10-P1020961" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-VTt9Gw0-2kM/UwVHBOR2HuI/AAAAAAAADHg/oSLnMPj-XTs/s1600-h/11-P1020964%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="11-P1020964" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-D_YorG2r0D8/UwVHCG53HOI/AAAAAAAADHo/Hao7-tVXoN0/11-P1020964_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="400" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="11-P1020964" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-0KBL_Z9BdCI/UwVHDqbbm0I/AAAAAAAADHw/8IF0YyWdwsE/s1600-h/11-IMG_2297%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="11-IMG_2297" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4x_nLSLLcBc/UwVHEjw9gKI/AAAAAAAADH4/yYgDoYe79Ls/11-IMG_2297_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="11-IMG_2297" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-BOntEWlzBaY/UwVHFuCGw_I/AAAAAAAADIA/FuZGxySFfNU/s1600-h/12-P1020967%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="12-P1020967" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-kP64r5cekRI/UwVHGml2kbI/AAAAAAAADII/91OyVN0RP6Q/12-P1020967_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="12-P1020967" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
On the trail, we marveled at families of frigate birds and lots of little lizards. Hannah loved being the first one down the path to spot the lizards as they scuttled away.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-WYl5EVFqwiA/UwVHJ1G3XDI/AAAAAAAADIQ/aSui1YT2b4M/s1600-h/13-P1020980%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="13-P1020980" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-VKLqjyHsUFo/UwVHLzxxxdI/AAAAAAAADIY/LKW97QCv_1g/13-P1020980_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="13-P1020980" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-pO3lbtEnssY/UwVHNR5zgEI/AAAAAAAADIg/YLXtm2iwrI4/s1600-h/14-P1020983%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="14-P1020983" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-8acYf1BC7-w/UwVHOts-vyI/AAAAAAAADIo/eR0ziJDVD10/14-P1020983_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="14-P1020983" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-NXtD8xYmjLs/UwVHSmp150I/AAAAAAAADIw/XfxPo6Qa5DI/s1600-h/15-P1020985%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="15-P1020985" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-8TvmYIqetpI/UwVHUfvXlFI/AAAAAAAADI4/-8EOIOjynEg/15-P1020985_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="15-P1020985" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-gX_ajgQuWps/UwVHWjGry8I/AAAAAAAADJA/Xzszz_2HpfM/s1600-h/17-P1020991%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="17-P1020991" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-F02r9QLnshg/UwVHYPJ9DBI/AAAAAAAADJI/zix6odecgv8/17-P1020991_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="400" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="17-P1020991" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-5VW9tqbfjOU/UwVHaQY--3I/AAAAAAAADJQ/r24H8BKL6SI/s1600-h/18-P1020992%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="18-P1020992" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-huj1sS64F68/UwVHbx643eI/AAAAAAAADJY/WaE_OimKgzk/18-P1020992_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="400" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="18-P1020992" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-A7DAyGs8j3U/UwVHfeb8GsI/AAAAAAAADJg/V7m4QgAesjQ/s1600-h/20-P1030016%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="20-P1030016" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-RPnmKdVUq_U/UwVHhDAPpzI/AAAAAAAADJo/i10VJcr8H6M/20-P1030016_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="20-P1030016" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Ky2Vw5jce8c/UwVHjpebVrI/AAAAAAAADJw/ZuP3oNPFP9U/s1600-h/21-P1030029%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="21-P1030029" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-OG9RTSUVUZE/UwVHk0NU7SI/AAAAAAAADJ4/Th2zWs8f0Ck/21-P1030029_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="21-P1030029" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-NkQCCC1lZYI/UwVHm7dn3VI/AAAAAAAADKA/Tx7jvrPexA8/s1600-h/37-P1030084%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="37-P1030084" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-8_pulnQEASA/UwVHofBSTII/AAAAAAAADKI/4adezxcd0Gg/37-P1030084_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="37-P1030084" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-x4qjvRFc3Jw/UwVHqUcpMbI/AAAAAAAADKQ/z7VnadeJh_w/s1600-h/22-P1030033%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="22-P1030033" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-KSWX-Ls2oJU/UwVHsOuGTxI/AAAAAAAADKY/_gQ_Vy7dcqI/22-P1030033_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="22-P1030033" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The brown boobies had the run of the of the western shore but we found a place to sit and eat our lunch.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-CH4yH_KV2w4/UwVHu_hSj5I/AAAAAAAADKg/7GLE2n7qr9Q/s1600-h/23-P1030039%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="23-P1030039" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-mRJWVvLJMa4/UwVHwRx8s2I/AAAAAAAADKo/zeYDm_GjuyQ/23-P1030039_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="23-P1030039" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4pZDF1RBBOw/UwVHx-UgicI/AAAAAAAADKw/NCq6F9-nDEY/s1600-h/25-P1030046%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="25-P1030046" border="0" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-rsIkaIapAsg/UwVHz2crosI/AAAAAAAADK4/sonm19A_fPg/25-P1030046_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="25-P1030046" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Y74SsaXLKdE/UwVH2FFA5gI/AAAAAAAADLA/50XKQkdwghk/s1600-h/28-P1030053%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="28-P1030053" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-GlcQwuvJIkU/UwVH5EOMTYI/AAAAAAAADLI/1zqWPdyTbBQ/28-P1030053_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="28-P1030053" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-KBdNgSSS5HY/UwVH7Wcim2I/AAAAAAAADLQ/Ha2XmHhiATw/s1600-h/29-P1030054%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="29-P1030054" border="0" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-v6rbd-zYyYc/UwVH9LNzuMI/AAAAAAAADLY/rc50EBMacRI/29-P1030054_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="29-P1030054" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Bryan and the girls explored out where the big Pacific swell crashed into the rugged shore. Ryan and I sat in the sun and chatted until several humpback whales surfaced off the northern shore and stunned us into reverent silence. <br />
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-gRzzjybn6ew/UwVH-Hsc47I/AAAAAAAADLg/Zs2uHxT_-c4/s1600-h/30-P1030066%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img alt="30-P1030066" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-BwDdUpnGdcA/UwVH-3SJhwI/AAAAAAAADLo/Z8NBxVEfQUc/30-P1030066_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="248" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="30-P1030066" width="640" /></a><br />
The trail map showed a trail running along the northern shore. We didn’t see a clear path, but the low groundcover made it easy to hike cross-country and we eventually found our way back to the eastern beach.<br />
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-M1UZsbMwmm8/UwVIAJrCZpI/AAAAAAAADLw/_p5oGC-r6BY/s1600-h/2014-01-31%25255B2%25255D.jpg"><img alt="2014-01-31" border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-GHFr-3haUAs/UwVIBH-Mm8I/AAAAAAAADL4/poVk6g-m7J4/2014-01-31_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="360" style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="2014-01-31" width="640" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-b8MhdUo_e5k/UwVICwFaTtI/AAAAAAAADMA/YXuZMPcam0U/s1600-h/36-P1030083%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="36-P1030083" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-yscMEfuasdA/UwVIEI21aCI/AAAAAAAADMI/utNA-5beYRk/36-P1030083_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="36-P1030083" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Bryan and I took Ryan to the southern end of the beach for a walk along the crab- and chiton-covered rocks.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-pwk8Mdxl75A/UwVIFeI3wII/AAAAAAAADMQ/UXoqhUNnEFQ/s1600-h/38-P1030088%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="38-P1030088" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-j2sP-5mGM8U/UwVIGc8s2vI/AAAAAAAADMY/MRihnolLIDw/38-P1030088_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="38-P1030088" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
By the time we were ready to go, the tide had started to come in. But we knew from our last trip to Isabel that the rocky shoals extend far out beyond the waterline and we could still occasionally see exposed reefs between us and our boat.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-azpCwDhhssw/UwVIHi7DKjI/AAAAAAAADMg/4OxdDO9c6YE/s1600-h/02-P1030102%25255B11%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="02-P1030102" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-fjn58O1y95s/UwVII5hOFII/AAAAAAAADMo/PLYajEm4ReQ/02-P1030102_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="02-P1030102" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We decided to wait a few more minutes for the moon to work her magic on the sea. Meira invented a game with rocks and sand and Hannah built with coral while Ryan found something to climb. Soon the tide had come in enough and we found safe passage across the rocks back to <em>LiLo</em> for the night.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-AIFlyGDjW6I/UwVILJbWC7I/AAAAAAAADMw/twag3fHeah4/s1600-h/P1030103%25255B11%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="P1030103" border="0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ASU_8gL2gmk/UwVIMK5FzOI/AAAAAAAADM4/9TcnFUhlTsk/P1030103_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="300" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="P1030103" width="400" /></a></div>
</blockquote>
Bethanyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06453157986225893947noreply@blogger.com0